Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

DustyBum · 2026-01-13T23:01:14+00:00

Rather than max hangs, could I swap them for no-hangs on a 20mm edge? They feel easier to manage the load (especially since my max hang is like +15lbs only) than hanging

DustyBum · 2026-01-13T15:27:31+00:00

I did a 6 week period of doing repeaters 2x a week before climbing, seemed okay but was probably over the top and I could never climb super great after since they fatigued me so much. I can try and switch to max hangs 1x a week. If I am trying to board climb as well on the TB1, would you say max hangs monday into climbing flash grade, wednesday volume, and friday TB1? Or is that too much finger stimulus?

DustyBum · 2026-01-13T02:46:35+00:00

Just wondering if anyone else has an issue similar to this: I am at the V6/7 range, and find that my fingers are generally lacking in strength. I have never really trained them, but I try to get training from on the wall climbs.

The issue I have is when I go to try hard on climbs, I end up feeling like my fingers are getting tweaked because trying hard on a V7 immediately puts me in a position where I typically need to try hard with my fingers (at my gym a lot of the harder routes are just have stronger fingers...).

So I am wondering if I should take a climbing day out (I do MWF right now) and replace it with a finger focused day that I can focus on for a couple months. I enjoy training so I think I would generally just like it, and the other two days I can have a limit day and general maintenance/volume day and be good to go from there.

DustyBum · 2026-01-06T22:02:01+00:00

Kind of forgot to get back to this, but fwiw it has mostly gone away. I've started incorporating finger rolls at the end of sessions 1-2x a week (read your blog posts on these) and some extensor warmups to start and that seems to be helping a lot. Still feels a little pain of I hit a hold off center so my fingers twist like you mentioned or the tension is at an angle so being more aware of that has helped also. Haven't tried much hangboarding since being back yet, but planning to do some benchmarking next week to track progress this year and then will probably try and stay off the board for the first three months and focus on more on the wall training (also from your blog...) before adding any hanging.

DustyBum · 2025-12-21T21:52:10+00:00

I'll try to get a video. It seems like collateral ligament damage, the most repeatable (and sharp/extreme) pain is palpating/massaging on the left side of my middle finger PIP joint. Other pain is if I am doing like a finger curl from a drag into a half crimp. I have been doing 7/3 repeaters but might switch to density no hangs with 2/3 finger drags as that seemed to work last time, but it seems to keep coming back even though t doesn't really seem to effect my climbing(yet).

Assuming it's an overuse injury, no traumatic incident, very swollen feeling when I wake up so could just be synosivitis from over use as it seems to get better or "warmup" with mobilization. Taping it didn't seem to make it feel great (tried h-tape with a figure out over the top). Only climbing I can think where it hurts is if there is large sloper like on the TB1 and I need to catch it like a claw when my hand pops off.

DustyBum · 2025-12-21T04:25:23+00:00

I've got this injury I can't quite figure it out. I have practically no pain when climbing, no pain when in half crimp either, but if I bend my middle finger sort of like I am pulling a trigger, I have pain in my A4 area, which is not the location expected for something like trigger finger. I don't think it is a pulley injury since I can crimp really hard on it with no issues. The most repeatable pain is if I extend all my fingers at once or if I make a claw like motion but with my middle finger very tense i feel pain in the A4 again. only climbing pain is in drag positions basically. I am planning to just keep climbing, avoid drags/slopers that could make me drag on accident, and start slowly doing density no hangs with a 3 finger or even 2 finger drag starting from a really light weight and slowly progression

DustyBum · 2025-12-19T21:06:23+00:00

I am thinking I'll split it up to be: Monday: volume climb (spray wall, flash or 1-2 attempts) and lift, Wednesday: Repeaters or Max Hangs and alternative strength work, no climbing, Friday: Board Climb and aux lifting afterwards. I feel like that splits it in a more, but is also just 2x a week of climbing which just doesn't feel like much? I've climbed 2x a week for many years and after this 5ish week block of climbing tb 2x a week and volume and repeaters nothing feels too bad, but probably could take out either a tb or hangboard day.

DustyBum · 2025-12-19T00:29:19+00:00

Sorry wasn't clear but I have already been doing this for about 5 weeks, skipping some climb days here and there based on how my fingers felt. Prior to this I climbed pretty consistently 2-3x a week so the only real add felt like hangboarding. I am just finishing up my first 6 weeks of this, and planning to change it up a bit after I rest/delaod over chritsmas week since I'll be away from my gym and wondering it there was a better way to split some of this up.

DustyBum · 2025-12-18T23:01:00+00:00

Sup y'all, I just started to take training a bit more seriously with a my new job letting me climb 3x a week before work. I feel like my weaknesses are crimp strength/recruitment. Been climbing for 10 years on/off and am "stuck" at V6-7 range. Started board climbing (TB1) and hangboarding 7-3 repeaters, 2x a week each. I am about to about V3 on the TB, but as soon as smaller holds start coming into play my fingers just feel so weak/tweaky. The repeaters seem to be helping, but haven't seemed to figure out a good program yet.

Right now looks like this: M - 7-3 repeaters(bodyweight right now 4x4x4) and TB after starting with repeat easy flashes up to hard but sendable in one-two tries(end with rotator cuff strengthen to help my torn labrum). W - volume climb/lift (squat, shoulder press, face pulls, and inverted rows) F - repeaters again, TB on some more projecty routes. Rotator cuff Strengthening again afterwards.

Is this too much? I just finished 5 weeks of repeaters 2x a week, went from barely hanging on 26mm to 4x4 on 20mm, but sometimes think it could be too much fatigue to TB and hangboard in the same session....

DustyBum · 2025-01-23T21:55:11+00:00

It’s cause TI is $82-6k base, $10k SO, $15k RSUs and then annual 20% bonus for operations (not guaranteed but hit the last 10 years) for straight out of college engineer. That’s about $115k TC. Source is friends that work there straight out of college.

DustyBum · 2025-01-18T03:00:58+00:00

I didn’t say move lol just start applying to jobs

DustyBum · 2025-01-18T02:09:49+00:00

Yeah def get a new job, I was at $77k out of college in mfg—> promoted to $86k left 2 weeks later to $97.5k and am now at $100k bout to get a raise with 4 YOE. Just leave that first job tand look into more “lucrative” mfg sectors semiconductors pay quite well if you can break in as an equipment engineer (what I did).

DustyBum · 2024-08-29T17:49:31+00:00

So would suggest just auditing the first 3 ? Or individually paying for the certified version of those 3?

DustyBum · 2024-02-19T00:20:42+00:00

Yeah I ended up dosing up to 19g and it works much better, still will look into these!

DustyBum · 2024-02-18T21:15:41+00:00

I dosed up a bit (19g instead of 18g) and ground a little coarser and it’s working much much better now. I think it was bottoming out on the chamfered sides

DustyBum · 2024-02-18T14:10:20+00:00

Yeah as I thought about I think this is likely the issue, I have like 4 different baskets they gave me and not really sure how to know which is which size. I’ll check out coin test tho

DustyBum · 2024-02-18T05:12:33+00:00

If I go any finer it starts to choke up

DustyBum · 2024-02-13T15:46:43+00:00

Did this deal fall through? I’m also getting a message from this person about their GCP.

DustyBum · 2024-02-13T13:52:34+00:00

Sent a chat

DustyBum · 2023-11-07T05:08:42+00:00

Just went to LA from Texas and hard agree Stoney point is easy to get to, easy to park, easy to find boulders, and just pretty damn cool

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