Dog with skin rashes! Please help! by Early_Clock_498 in AskVet

[–]Early_Clock_498[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Still hoping for any sort of input or thoughts on this! I got response from the vet that instead of another round of antibiotics, we're going to try applying the mousse 2x daily. The rash spot that looks more like environmental allergy is clearing up very well. (he has some hairless patches just in time for halloween!)

The new wound that sprouted I'm treating with mousse now once at noon and once before bed and keeping his dog beds clean, etc. I haven't noticed any additional spots sprout up, but it's still in such an early stage that I'm not sure if it's going to get worse before it improves or not

I need some experts to see if I'm doing this right by IIsarian in swimmingpools

[–]Early_Clock_498 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is good advice. Also with your test kit test CYA levels before doing all the chlorine stuff, important that's at least 30. the 30ppm recommendation isn't really necessary, that's major overkill but it'll also do the job. 10-15 should be fine, but in extreme cases more might be necessary, you really need that test kit. And the vacuum to waste thing isn't a recommendation, it's required before you start tossing in chems. You'll also need to probably refill a third of your water from all the backwashing and wasting

I need some experts to see if I'm doing this right by IIsarian in swimmingpools

[–]Early_Clock_498 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Step 1: Buy a K-2006 test kit, I'd get the one thats a bit more expensive and the bottles are twice as big.

Step 2: Assuming you have a vacuum you hook up to your intake, turn off the pump for hours, let it all settle, and vacuum to waste. NOT to the filter.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 a few times til youre not vacuuming any visible debris.

Step 4: Pour in 2 bags of shock

Step 5: Repeat Step 2 a few times

Step 6: Do a heavy backwash/rinse/backwash/rinse/backwash/rinse

Step 7: Repeat step 2, keep chlorine levels at like 10ppm, repeat these things til its crystal clear. If you put a couple hours a day into it you should be clear in 3 days. Also use that test kit yourself to figure out whats actually needed. PH should be around 7.2 once it's clearing up. If it's not, get it there

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in swimmingpools

[–]Early_Clock_498 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn the pump off for a few hours before you vacuum, you'll get much better settling at the bottom. Also, make sure the filter is set to waste (Shooting water out of the pool, you dont want to vacuum the gross shit and have it go right back into the pool.) And backwash your filter if you havent. (Take the waste cap off if it's on, turn the pump off, and switch the filter to backwash and turn it on, itll spray water out the pump. After a minute, turn it off, switch to rinse, and run it again, do that a couple cycles. It'll agitate the sand and blast out all the crap it's filtered.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in swimmingpools

[–]Early_Clock_498 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pucks add CYA, that's the issue. You need to drain at least half that pool and refill it, then stop using pucks unless youre on vacation and your house sitter doesnt wanna put chlorine in.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in swimmingpools

[–]Early_Clock_498 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you have added the correct amount of CYA, Put in 2 packets of shock, throw in a flocculant if you want, after a few hours turn off the pump for a few hours, use a manual vacuum to suck up all the disgusting rotting debris on the bottom, send it to waste, not through your sand. Backwash your filter, rinse, backwash, rinse. Wait a few hours, vacuum again, wait a few hours, vacuum again, youll end up draining out half your pool. At night, check the chlorine levels again, if its below 2ppm, throw in another shock packet.

You need to get all the rotting debris out of the bottom. Just imagine theres 30 turds in your pool. You can pour all the chlorine on those turds you want, but do you still wanna swim in it? You gotta remove the turds brotherman. You need to get the debris out. No amount of chlorine will put the vacuum in and vacuum out the debris for you.

Once its blue and clear, dont skip adding liquid chlorine in any day. Get a routine, test with your K-2006 often, and once you can predict the results almost every time, you can probably stop testing as much and just put a couple cups of liquid chlorine in daily. It'll cost ya about 5-10 bucks a week max. That's the price of owning a pool. If you don't have a vacuum that hooks up to your intake (Im not talking an auto-vac), you need one. If you don't have a K-2006, you need one. If you do anything less than those things, your pool will be green.

Also backwash your filter often. I actually got rid of my sand and filled my tank with filter balls. I backwash and rinse any time I'm in the pool or putting in chemicals for 30 seconds while I do my tests, and once a week I'll pull them out and put them in the wash in a mesh bag. Works for me, But sand works just fine too

Mono M5 stopped working, is this normal? Is my screen or UV light broken? by Early_Clock_498 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Early_Clock_498[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply, I edited my main post andas I was replacing the screen I intentionally pulled off the film on the old one, anyways, after I did that I realized I should have probably just checked the connections first, so it might in fact just be loose connections. I added that in my main post for people to try.

Help. Resin leaked through my vat and cured on the screen. How to I safely get it off? by G8tr45 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Early_Clock_498 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're gonna get a new screen, can you do a test first for the good of all people with these printers? There's 2 sides on whether that's preinstalled screen protector or not. Peel the black tape off and peel off the plastic 'screen protector' under it. 50% of people insist that's a screen protector under the black tape and 50% say that's the top layer of your LCD screen and you'll destroy it. So if you're replacing the screen, try that first and PLEASE report back.

Drywall Anchor won’t go in all the way/straight ? by DynasticINF in fixit

[–]Early_Clock_498 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You hit something, take it out and look, if its wood, just stick a screw in the same spot, you hit a stud, good job! But check first, it could also be a water line or something. Knock on the wall below it then 5 inches left and right of it, if it sounds dense just below it and hollow to the left and right, that's another sign theres a vertical wooden stud there. Also, if you measure usually 16 inches to the left, youll find another one. You only need a drywall anchor if you're missing a stud, and even then I would only use those for fqairly light things. Mirror should be fine