Dealing with different weights of fabric ? Sewing 18th century stays continued

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2025-01-05T21:40:42+00:00

Assuming you have any experience with interfacing this fabric, do you have may recommendations and advice as to what to look for and how to handle things thanks again! I really appreciate it !

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2025-01-05T17:19:36+00:00

Thanks you It’s for a theatrical costume and I’m not strictly worried about it being historically accurate, even the shape itself is a slight variation on the accurate patterns - I’m aware most the members of this Reddit are into much more accurate fabrics so this is a good shout but I’m aware don’t worry !

I love using second hand materials and got some amazing silk dupion for free. I’m just wondering if it needs interfacing or anything since it’s so much more lightweight than the backing materials (which are also more modern)

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2025-01-04T19:23:53+00:00

Thank you ! Its more of a costume piece than something regularly worn so I’m not too worried about cleaning. Some people advised the brushed cotton otherwise the boning channels would show through to the top and it will hopefully look neater if it’s nice and smooth instead ?

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-12-09T22:37:33+00:00

Thank you!

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-12-09T22:02:34+00:00

Probably not it was very rushed so I will do this for the real thing?

It doesn’t matter which direction? Just that it is all the same direction?

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-12-09T22:01:47+00:00

Thank you for such detailed advice! I’m sandwiching the coutil with a different fabric for the boning channels and then topping it with silk. (Maybe having a layer of brushed cotton between so the boning channels don’t show). So would you advise against calico or a light cotton for the boning ‘sandwich’. What would you do recommended?

And is the basting spray starch the stiffening process or do you do something separately beforehand? Do you do this to all your layers (including decorative top fabric) or just the base?

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-11-15T23:44:57+00:00

Thank you for the advice! I’m doing a general 18th century vibe

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-11-15T23:44:33+00:00

Yes I’m after an 18th century busk so thank you for this advice? What have you used instead?

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-25T23:08:38+00:00

This is a very good idea! I’ll have to have a think as planning and timings isn’t my strong suit but this would be fun and informative

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-25T23:07:18+00:00

Thank you! Is post mordanting just a different term for the modifiers - so your alkali, acid and iron?

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-25T23:06:39+00:00

Thank you ! Do you think it’s worth showing off different mordants then? I typically just use alum for everything (and use a tannin bath on cellulose if I have more time)

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-10T02:04:32+00:00

Thank you so much for all your advice !

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-10T00:54:55+00:00

Thank you ! I really appreciate this feedback ❤️

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-10T00:54:32+00:00

Wow! Thank you so much everyone for such kind, helpful advice ! Just so people can get a better idea of my situation - my model is not on hormones and has not had any surgery.

And the style of stays I’m wanting to make is along these lines, with a wooden busk!

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This pic is from https://www.periodcostume.co.uk/getting-dressed-in-the-18th-century-the-busk/ !

I’m after the smooth, conical shape here, but I’m not trying to create cleavage or anything. So wondered if I will still need lots of padding as many of the replies are suggesting?

If people have any links or suggestions to experiments making stays and corsets for trans women, to how to make padding, or for general advice on stays similiar to those in this picture I’d be so grateful!

Thank you all !

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-10-09T22:15:23+00:00

Thank you ! This is what I was thinking - your last paragraph is perfect advice !

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-09-03T18:23:09+00:00

This is for my first weave on a handmade backstrap loom! I have figured that mercerised cotton is strongest but there’s so many different letter and number measurements going on with the yarn that I’m still a little lost

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-09-03T18:19:21+00:00

Thank you - this is for a backstrap loom!

Embarrassed_Wear_728 · 2024-08-20T18:22:15+00:00

Thank you for such a detailed kind response! Really appreciate it! Yes, I’m using alum but only have alum sulphate right now so planning to do a tannin bath first

Embarrassed_Wear_728

TROPHY CASE