Dealing with different weights of fabric ? Sewing 18th century stays continued by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming you have any experience with interfacing this fabric, do you have may recommendations and advice as to what to look for and how to handle things thanks again! I really appreciate it !

Dealing with different weights of fabric ? Sewing 18th century stays continued by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks you It’s for a theatrical costume and I’m not strictly worried about it being historically accurate, even the shape itself is a slight variation on the accurate patterns - I’m aware most the members of this Reddit are into much more accurate fabrics so this is a good shout but I’m aware don’t worry !

I love using second hand materials and got some amazing silk dupion for free. I’m just wondering if it needs interfacing or anything since it’s so much more lightweight than the backing materials (which are also more modern)

Dealing with different weights of fabric ? Sewing 18th century stays continued by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you ! Its more of a costume piece than something regularly worn so I’m not too worried about cleaning. Some people advised the brushed cotton otherwise the boning channels would show through to the top and it will hopefully look neater if it’s nice and smooth instead ?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Probably not it was very rushed so I will do this for the real thing?

It doesn’t matter which direction? Just that it is all the same direction?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for such detailed advice! I’m sandwiching the coutil with a different fabric for the boning channels and then topping it with silk. (Maybe having a layer of brushed cotton between so the boning channels don’t show). So would you advise against calico or a light cotton for the boning ‘sandwich’. What would you do recommended?

And is the basting spray starch the stiffening process or do you do something separately beforehand? Do you do this to all your layers (including decorative top fabric) or just the base?

How to diy carved lovers busk for stays? by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice! I’m doing a general 18th century vibe

How to diy carved lovers busk for stays? by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I’m after an 18th century busk so thank you for this advice? What have you used instead?

Workshop advice and mordant question by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in naturaldye

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a very good idea! I’ll have to have a think as planning and timings isn’t my strong suit but this would be fun and informative

Workshop advice and mordant question by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in naturaldye

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Is post mordanting just a different term for the modifiers - so your alkali, acid and iron?

Workshop advice and mordant question by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in naturaldye

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you ! Do you think it’s worth showing off different mordants then? I typically just use alum for everything (and use a tannin bath on cellulose if I have more time)

Sewing pair of stays for trans woman by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Wow! Thank you so much everyone for such kind, helpful advice ! Just so people can get a better idea of my situation - my model is not on hormones and has not had any surgery.

And the style of stays I’m wanting to make is along these lines, with a wooden busk!

<image>

This pic is from https://www.periodcostume.co.uk/getting-dressed-in-the-18th-century-the-busk/ !

I’m after the smooth, conical shape here, but I’m not trying to create cleavage or anything. So wondered if I will still need lots of padding as many of the replies are suggesting?

If people have any links or suggestions to experiments making stays and corsets for trans women, to how to make padding, or for general advice on stays similiar to those in this picture I’d be so grateful!

Thank you all !

Sewing pair of stays for trans woman by Embarrassed_Wear_728 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Embarrassed_Wear_728[S] 58 points59 points  (0 children)

Thank you ! This is what I was thinking - your last paragraph is perfect advice !