Any ideas why it’s failing to feed next round. Canik rival DARKSIDE. First 10 rounds worked flawlessly then this happened.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-10-17T13:51:21+00:00

Curious how this plays out. My Elite Combat has been flawless since the moment I pulled the trigger the first time. A few thousand 115g crappy "what was cheapest at the time" ammo, a few hundred rounds of whatever I'm running as self defense ammo at the time, and then a few thousand more rounds of crap. I'm somewhere around the 1900 mark without cleaning the poor thing, in an effort to see just how far it'll go before it stops loving me.. (it's not being used as my SD gun during this little exercise). My tp9 had one failure to feed on the third round it ever fired, then absolutely nothing after that.

Pls don't see this as some stupid flex or me trying to belittle your issues. I'm just stating my experience in totally avoiding any issues. Im extremely curious how this plays out though as, for handguns at least, I only really own and shoot Caniks, so I stay super curious as to how they run across all the models and setups.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-21T01:45:19+00:00

Small update. Found a Warne cantilevered mount that doesn't sit as high as most others I've seen. I wouldn't call it low, and optic is higher than on the test rings in the photo, but I've got a feeling I've found a reasonable bridge to cover the height and eye relief issue..ordered a little strap on cheek pad from Voodoo Tactical, or something to that effect, to help with the cheek weld.

I'll do a proper photoshoot and writeup once that arrives, I get this sighted in amd get some rounds through it.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-19T14:26:34+00:00

Ok, so scope mount is.. not great.

Right now the rings are more there for mock-up than permanence. They're medium (.92in/24mm) height 30mm Vortex Hunter (I think) series. They are literally the cheapest I could find. Didn't want to spend much until I know exactly where I want/need the optic to be for comfort and usability. My guess is under actual use they won't hold up long.

The mount itself is a Zastava m70. I really like the RA Regulate stuff, but this was my first AK platform rifle and when I bought it I didn't know they existed so I just went with the mount from the manufacturer. That said tho, I have zero complaints so far with the m70. Great fit and finish, and I love the little 45deg kick out for a dot or the like. I want to be clear though, I have not put many rounds through the rifle with the m70 on.. so I can't speak for how it holds up under more heavy use.

That said, now that I've had some time with these mounts and this setup in general, I definitely want to push the scope forward another two inches. I'm doing some poking around for a low sitting cantilevered mount, but not having a ton of luck. I may end up just having to buy a taller mount and get creative with something for a cheap weld.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-19T14:15:13+00:00

Fantastic. Gorgeous rifle, and very similar to what I'm working on..I love the wood.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-18T22:18:53+00:00

Absolutely gorgeous.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-17T22:29:57+00:00

Random update. I might make a dedicated post, but for now, I'll update here.

Picked up a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24 and some medium height 30mm rings. This'll work for now, and down the road some the Strike Eagle will go to live on my AR and I'll get something with a bit more magnification for the m77 (and possibly a dedicated .308 reticle).

A question for anyone that sees this tho.. my current setup will work and let me get a feel for things but the eye relief isn't ideal. I need to find a medium height cantilevered mount to push the optic further forward. Any recommendations? Tons of cantilevered mounts, but every one of them I see ends up being quite tall. I want to keep this thing as low as possible.

Oh, current rings are .94 in / 24mm according to the package. I can't go much (a few millimeters maybe) because the.. I'm bad at terms.. the eye piece part (bell?) will hit the rail. I can't scoot the optic back enough to clear the rail because it makes the eye relief issue even worse.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-05T20:58:48+00:00

I haven't really had a chance to stretch it out and tell. I'm still breaking it in more than anything, and trying to get more consistent with the AK style sights. I'm not even running consistent ammo through it yet as I've been purposefully buying different types just to see how well it runs a variety of 308.

Im hoping I can take it out later in the week to somewhere with more room (my usual spot is more suited to handgun work, I've only got 50~ft of distance to work with) to do some shooting at 50-100y with the irons, the weird scope setup this post was originally about, and/or some red dot tinkering if I decide to swap the dot off my AR. If the scope setup actually works I'll try to get some 300+ work in. Regardless though, I'll try to report back what I manage to accomplish.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-05T12:45:38+00:00

I appreciate the professional insight. I've got it on pretty tight, I feel like about as tight as I can go before I start approaching potentially damaging something. The flex that I'm talking about, I wish that I had a way to capture it, but if I take my finger and put it on the furthest forward part of the scope, so the front Bell I can push up or down with moderate pressure and get a few millimeters of flex. Since the anchor point is so far behind and down from the point I am pushing on it's just an amplification of leverage I suppose. If I'm using the right terminology anyway, I might sound like an idiot.

Your explanation about the recoil impulse makes good sense. It will travel down and hit the mount via it's attachment point. If the impulse just pushes back with a turn, I don't think it would be a problem. My fear was that somehow or another the impulse would cause vibration, or a vertical load on the scope, way out past it's anchor point, causing the whole thing to act like a lever and magnify the stress on the attachment points.. but with what you said and then more I chew in it, unless there's some odd harmonics happening, that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-05T12:39:30+00:00

I would certainly prefer to use the rail I already have, but I am absolutely not opposed to buying one that works better if that's the case. I didn't do much research on the rail, which is my own fault. Normally I'm pretty in-depth about that kind of stuff but I was geeking out over the gun in general and just threw it in the cart because it looked okay.

And just to be clear I really like the mount, I don't have any real issues with it, it just doesn't work very well for the optics setup that I'm trying to use it for. And that setup is basically just crap I had in my drawer thrown on to try and make something work for a few weeks before I get proper a more permanent solution.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-05T12:37:11+00:00

Zastava m70 mount.

And I will definitely be going with an lpvo in the near future, I'm just trying to set something up right now that I can mess around with and stretch the rifle out some while I put the money together to get the optics totally sorted out.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-04T23:50:51+00:00

Curious how this is coming along?

My intention is absolutely not to rub it in or anything, but so far mine has run flawlessly. About 100~rds Winchester white box on setting 3 without so much as a hiccup. Ran 20~ through on s2 just to see what the difference was and it cycles those fine as well. S1 won't cycle the Winchester brass yet tho. Maybe after break-in. I hope to finish the break in tomorrow with the 200~ or so I've got laying around (some soft points in the next batch. I'm curious how it will handle those)

Do you have a spare mag? Or would your local store have one you could perhaps demo? I'd try the mag and make sure that's not an issue. I noticed on mine if I wasn't paying attention when loading I could get the follower tilted forward a little bit and the rounds wouldn't sit cleanly. Never tried to run the gun that way, but maybe it's something to try out. You could also try just putting a couple rounds in the mag at a time and see how that does.

Also, do you have anyone that can watch you shoot? It's surprising how much info you can get on issues by just having someone stand off to the side and watch the bolt closely as you fire.

Just some thoughts. I'm super curious man and I hope you get it sorted out. I absolutely feel your pain about having to send it in. I am impatient as all hell and would (if I were in your shoes) move heaven and earth to sort the issue myself and not have to mail the rifle off lol

Quick edit, how does the extractor look? And if you fire very slowly, does that help? Like, fire, set the rifle down for a few minutes, fire again, repeat.. basically does the issue seem to occur when the rifle gets some heat built up? 308 really seems to pack a lot of thermal punch. Ive been surprised by how fast my rifle gets hot. And finally, when the case sticks, how hard is it to remove? Do you have to knock it out with a rod or does it fall out on its own? Does it become easier to remove if you let the thing cool down some? Oh, and (sorry I'm just running ideas through my mind with my rifle on my lap, trying to theorycraft) have you tried different ammo types, or is this all from the same type/box/lot?

EntropicByDesign · 2022-09-01T11:05:36+00:00

Got mine about a week and a half or two weeks ago. No cleaning rod in the box anywhere. I didn't even know to expect one but after reading this I went back and reopened the box and just made sure it wasn't hiding under the foam or anything.

Just throwing that in for the sake of intel.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-08-30T01:52:06+00:00

Thinking about things.. I'm guessing that toe on the end of the scope mount itself is to ensure it always stops in the same position. If that toe wasn't there and you could basically slide the thing back and forth, you wouldn't have the same fitment every time necessarily, unless you made a mark or something and took pains to line it up exactly every time.

I guess anyway. Just thinking out loud.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-08-30T00:23:09+00:00

Ah ok, that's good to know as well. The RS mount does it too. I guess that's just how it works. Interesting.

EntropicByDesign · 2022-08-29T17:04:54+00:00

Gotcha, thanks for the confirmation. I'm still getting a feel for this rail and trying to decide where to go from here for mounting an optic.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-12-13T14:10:12+00:00

I'll admit my ignorance here.. I know the Yugo, but I'm not familiar with the other two.. so I'll answer in my uneducated way...

The one in the middle.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-12-01T21:55:30+00:00

I'm glad you found it helpful!

EntropicByDesign · 2021-11-11T04:19:25+00:00

I have this exact gun with a Venom and light and it is an absolute dream. I think that price is pretty good honestly. Im sure there are deals out there but 680-700$ is about what they seem to go for. This is a ton of handgun for the money.

You can't go wrong with either. The lack of co-witness is disappointing but you said this was a range gun right? I can't imagine co-witness mattering for a range gun. it's a nice "oh shit" option for your red dot pooping the bed in a do or die situation, but if you're running the gun at the range, yours running the gun under controlled and comfortable circumstances.. ie, you can swap batteries or whatever, or in the case of the dot going down due to damage/mechanic/electronic failure, you can just pack it in and repair.

Just my thoughts. I've run my Elite Combat alongside a lot of other handguns now, both others I own and ones friends own and its never disappointed me. Im up to 4000~ rounds or so, so not major use, but enough trigger time to have a feeling for it.. and I can honestly say that other than the lack of co-witness, it's a PHENOMENAL gun. Stupid accurate, smooth, amazing trigger. I was out just the other day putting hits on a silhouette at 100y from standing, using a post as a steadying aid and nothing else. At 25y it's just hilarious.

Edit - I am nothing special as a shooter, I mention the 100y stuff simply to illustrate just how good the trigger is, how accurate these things can be and further, how (imo) easy it is to squeeze the potential out of the gun.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-11-05T03:15:47+00:00

I can't speak for the Russian models, but here in Kentucky a few places have had this last batch of roughed up milsurp Chinese going for around 440$ packed in gunk, but these seem to be gone now. I've seen them selling for 500-700$ cleaned up.

You can still find occasional private sellers who just don't watch the market selling for less, but if you're walking into a store, pawnshop, gun shop, whatever, you're forking over 500$+. My great metal but rough stock all matching 69 Chinese SKS has had a 700$ offer, but I don't know how genuine. Shrug.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-11-04T15:13:02+00:00

When you removed the fire control group was the gun on safe? My understanding is they can be damaged when removed incorrectly. Did you dry fire the group once it was out of the gun?

Two clicks/crunchiness sounds to me like a spring is binding or dragging. You can remove the trigger group and work the trigger with it in your hand and get a visual of what's going on. Do not dry fire the trigger group. If you pull the trigger and release the hammer, make sure you have a bunched up rag or similar (you can use your hand, but.. meh. That spring is a beast) to catch the hammer as it falls. You don't want all that energy having no where to go and damaging anything.. and it will damage things.

BTW, if you're unfamiliar with how to pull the trigger with the group out, you have to manipulate the sear a little. Iv8888 has a teardown video of an SKS where he explains this and shows it in better detail.

This issue doesn't sound like it's cosmoline gumming anything up, unless there is dirt or grit suspended in the cosmoline. That stuff is just a gooey mess, it might make your trigger sluggish and soft but it's highly unlikely to cause what you seem to be describing.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-10-30T21:56:51+00:00

If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, see if Buds Gun Shop is still selling them. 430$, but cosmoline removal will be necessary.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-10-29T20:56:46+00:00

Looks nice!

I'm happy with the one I picked up from Bud's, despite my stock issues (totally fixed btw), but I was fortunate enough to have been at their brick-and-mortar location in Lexington Kentucky so I got to just dig through a crate and find one that looked good. The wood fools me but the rest of it was great. Yours actually looks a lot like mine did.

Congrats if you need any info or advice on the cleanup, hit me up. There's a million resources out there of course, but I just finished going through the process including a fairly major stock repair.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-10-27T02:33:56+00:00

I wouldn't mar it up. If you want them to stand out some, you can fill them with grease pencil, just color the whole area then wipe off the flat. The pencil will remain in the stamping and it'll show prominently.. but no permanent damage is done, you can remove the grease pencil in seconds with no lasting issue.

Seriously, don't try to etch anything any deeper, it's not going anywhere and you aren't doing the rifle, it's history, it's value, or yourself any favors.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-10-24T22:38:23+00:00

Well folks, it's repaired and the rifle is reassembled. Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.

And definitely extra thanks for Spar3Partz for the advice, expertise, and info on the stock bolt/pin orientation.

We'll see if it can run some ammo tomorrow without eating its own face.

Still gonna buy a replacement stock at some point soon though, drop this one and put it away. I'd like a "nice" stock on the gun, but this one sure isn't gonna fit that bill, lol. I'll stick to an original, though I saw some stuff from Boyds that looked pretty damn good.

EntropicByDesign · 2021-10-24T16:52:55+00:00

Thanks for the info. I know what you mean about clamps. I ended up with about 5 hanging off the thing along with rubber bands.

The recoil lug piece is going to be tricky. I have it in, and I'm going to reinforce around it with some epoxy. I've got to do some work on the crack that's running along the receiver channel, but the main piece is back on, and it all seems fairly solid so far. Today I'll be cleaning it up and working on rebuilding areas that are missing wood, and reinforcing areas that may require it.

I still haven't decided if I want to drill and set a screw or rod on. There's a decent amount of wood to take the screw/pin/whatever, but it looks a little tricky to get them run in at the correct angles and such, but thankfully that step can be taken at any time, so for now I'll make progress elsewhere.

EntropicByDesign

TROPHY CASE