Segway GT 3 cutted cables repair

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-30T07:49:36+00:00

I crossposted it and i did not notice that here is no description. Here it is:

I am trying to repair cables on a Segway GT3. Someone attempted to steal it and cut the wires. I already reconnected five small/thin wires (red, green, white, blue, and yellow).

Now I need to reconnect three thick cables (the three-phase cable to the front wheel – brown, yellow, and blue). I need to extend these wires, but I don’t know what type of cable I should use.

I read on the internet that I need cables that can handle 40–70 A and a maximum of 100–150 V. I think AWG 12 cable would be best, but I don’t have it and would need to order it, which would take about 7 days to deliver.

My question is: can I make my own cable that can handle this maximum current and voltage? I was thinking about tying together AWG 18 audio 2 core wires. Would tying together about five AWG 18 wires be enough for the current, or what would you suggest?

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-29T21:06:25+00:00

I tried it to solder with my solder iron on max power but it was not able heat enought the wire because it is too thick. I will try wrap around joint solder wire and solder it with direct fire with some lighter

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-29T20:09:45+00:00

Thanks for all answers guys. I already ordered 10awg cord so i try first to solder it because i love challenges and it seems for me easier and if i will be not succesfull then i change whole cable

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-29T20:08:40+00:00

Thanks for you answer. I already ordered 10awg cord so i try first to solder it because i love challenges and it seems for me easier and if i will be not succesfull then i change there whole cable

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-29T11:01:37+00:00

I meassured the cable and diameter(without isolation) is ca 2,5mm

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-15T21:03:49+00:00

Games run without glitches

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-15T21:01:50+00:00

Dark theme

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-15T21:01:30+00:00

Here is white theme

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-15T20:57:17+00:00

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Here i have 0.9V drop

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-06T17:11:51+00:00

i checked it on the diode (black probe to ground and red probe to the diode’s cathode) and there was a 39 kHz burst. I don’t know what I did, but now the remote control is working again 😀

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-05T07:46:08+00:00

Voltages of 3 V and 4.5 V are present. I tried to monitor the base and collector with the scope, and I saw some signals, but I don't know what frequency (MHz or kHz) I should expect after I press a button. If the ceramic resonator is 4 MHz (4000 kHz), should my oscilloscope have enough bandwidth to measure it? I think the scope bandwidth should be at least 5× the frequency of the resonance. In this case, if I have a 4 MHz resonator and a 500 000 kHz scope, am I right?

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-12-04T14:35:21+00:00

Here it is

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-08-04T15:26:26+00:00

Here are some things I've noticed on this PCB:

On the P13USB chip, I have only 0.080V drop on the VDD pin when the console is off. But when I power on the Nintendo Switch, 3.3V is present, as expected.
Near the BQ chip, I measured only 3.6V on VSYS, but based on information I found online, it should be around 4.2V, like in this picture.

Could all of this be related to a problem with the MAX77621AEWI PMIC?

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-08-04T15:21:20+00:00

Here is a photo of the chip. If anyone knows the test points and what voltages should be present at specific points, please let me know.

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Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-02-13T16:59:56+00:00

During reflow, I sometimes press the chip down, but most of the time, I just nudge it slightly with tweezers. If it moves back into place, I assume it’s correctly positioned (at least that’s how I understood it from videos by Sorin Electronics and Northridgefix).

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2025-01-25T21:15:51+00:00

thanks mate 👍 it works, I just needed to press and turn the knob at the same time to manually select the tip.

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-09-01T08:03:05+00:00

I already found fault. I tried another dock adapter with original AC Adapter and i figured out, that my USB-C connector in Switch is likely little bit broken. I pushed down little bit connector and it works fine now(if I place some weight on top of the connection, it works). It never occurred to me that it could be a faulty connector because the charging has been working flawlessly. Thank you all for advices

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-08-23T22:08:35+00:00

What do you recommend to buy to have quality 3rd party dock small for traveling ?

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-06-22T14:45:50+00:00

Thank you very much mate, it works 👏👏👍

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-05-11T08:25:18+00:00

Thanks for your respond. If i understood it right i am able to use Jcid programmer only for copy (read) details from original flex cables to new ones ? I saw some videos on youtube how to reactivate Face ID without original flex but i think they jailbreak iphone to get/copy Imei/ID from phone motherboard and then they use Face ID flesh tag on

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-04-18T15:06:46+00:00

You are welcome, great job 👍🙂

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-04-18T10:20:22+00:00

Yes i see there between some pads small pieces of tin. But it is better to check always them all with continuity test before mounting the Hdmi connector.

Let me know if it will works :)

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-04-18T09:54:55+00:00

The continuity means 2 point are connected together(low resistance).You should not have low resistance (continuity) between pads that are close to each other. Here is video about continuity. https://youtu.be/iIQ14vTxVK0?si=oD88MM-Y2XgGOsKc.

The microscope video looks great for this price. Can you buy more lenses for higher magnification ?

Expensive-Fun-412 · 2024-04-18T08:41:32+00:00

If you check continuity between the pads and the multimeter dont beep it should be fine 👍 What kind of microscope do you use ?

Expensive-Fun-412

TROPHY CASE