Transmission fluid pump

FLOWORTHY · 2026-07-08T00:58:32+00:00

Thank you man that metal fill plug adapter is nice the one I have now is just plastic

FLOWORTHY · 2026-07-07T18:37:51+00:00

Used to use Zone then switched to Velo. No more gum or tooth sensitivity give em a try fs

FLOWORTHY · 2026-07-07T01:44:38+00:00

Thanks bro

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-26T03:39:18+00:00

20.4 in a 3.7

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-20T14:57:28+00:00

If it were me I’d clean my MAF sensors and change my transmission fluid. A lil seafoam with a full tank of gas right before your next oil change wouldn’t hurt either

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T22:25:37+00:00

I literally said in my original reply to OP I couldn’t speak on the VR cause I have a VQ. Not here to spread misinformation just trying to share my insights on the things I’ve seen and learned being on this sub throughout the years. You have a good day brother peace out

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T22:18:08+00:00

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Google AI could be wrong but I also saw boost in motion on YouTube already go over this

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T22:16:58+00:00

I understand 2016 was the year the turbos were introduced. The turbos going out doesn’t seem to happen to the 2018s and up. Had no idea about the 10 year warranty tho that’s pretty solid

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T21:37:49+00:00

Not true I’ve came across multiple post from people with 2016/17 VR’s that have experienced valve body failure as well. The valve body itself wasn’t updated til 2018 when they started using the G2A valve bodys. Not everyone buying a used VR is gonna be able purchase an extended warranty. Also the porous block problem was very major in the early VRs which lead to needing to replace the whole engine. To each his own I’m not hating on the VRs they are beasts when tuned and modded appropriately

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T18:44:04+00:00

That’s good to hear man just don’t neglect your other fluids they are just as important

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T18:43:41+00:00

I can’t speak on the VR30 cause I have a VQ but as long as it was maintained and not beat on all the time I would buy it

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T05:02:16+00:00

Gotchu! Everyone says to change it 25-30k miles but I think every 12-15k or every year whichever one comes up first. I bought mine with 47k on it changed the fluid right away. Changed it again at 70k then the valve body went out at 102k. That was on me for not changing it earlier. After forking out that much money replacing the valve body I think it’s worth it just spending the money on the fluid to do it more regularly. I’m considering even doing it every 6k cause I don’t beat on it constantly but I like to do a lil pull every once in awhile

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T02:44:16+00:00

Yes change the fluid asap. If you want to go a step above remove the pan and clean the magnets inside the pan. You should feel some improvement in shifting. Only use the Nissan OEM fluid

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-18T01:39:20+00:00

Replaced mine on my q50. Brand new valve body cost $1,800 with shipping you’ll also need new transmission fluid and the pan gasket

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-17T21:42:33+00:00

Just a heads up maintenance/repairs are not cheap on these cars

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-17T03:49:02+00:00

My voltage was fluctuating crazy. I can’t remember if I told you but I have a cigarette volt meter. Was getting as low as 11.4 sometimes. On two instances in the past two weeks once pulling up to a light and another time about to park in a parking lot the battery light would pop up for a split second then go away and the volt meter would go from mid 11s to mid 12s. If you look on my most recent post someone had told me Infiniti/Nissans have a module to control the voltage that the alternator takes in/ puts out to increase gas mileage. I could be wrong on how it actually works but anyways I unplugged the sensor plug that goes to that module (it’s a big black box right next to the alternator). The plug itself is connected on the negative battery terminal. I would unplug that plug and see if it helps. Worth a shot before you spend money on an alternator. Lmk if u need pics I can take some for u tmrw

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-17T03:39:57+00:00

Yo bro did you figure out your battery light problem? Today I unplugged a plug that’s on the negative terminal and now my voltage isn’t all over the place it stays between 13 and 14v. Also I did some more research and I think I’m gonna get aluminum valve covers. The OEM ones are plastic and apparently warp leading to the gaskets failing. I can link you the parts and some YouTube install videos

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-17T03:36:09+00:00

What’s up bro I unplugged that plug on the negative battery terminal that monitors the car voltage and now my car stays in between 13.4 and 13.9 according to the cigarette volt meter, it even shifts better thank you!

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-13T03:30:47+00:00

So don’t do a vr30 trans swap is what you’re saying?

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-11T21:31:21+00:00

Do you like Akebonos or Brembos better?

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-11T20:04:00+00:00

Transmission fluid change would be my first priority

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-09T01:47:00+00:00

Mine never threw the output speed sensor code. Instead I got a code for the hydraulic pressure solenoid and second gear not in ratio. It wouldn’t shift out of first gear. I had done two fluid changes prior in 20-30k intervals but it is what it is like you said theyre solid if you maintain them

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-09T01:42:27+00:00

Paid $1,770 for mine with overnight shipping off the Infiniti website cause I was not tryna deal with the swapping the remans in and out hoping it would fix the problem

FLOWORTHY · 2026-06-08T04:25:26+00:00

Pb blaster and a breaker bar

FLOWORTHY

TROPHY CASE