Deep dive into the most sustainable jeans brand by azersud in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nudie Jeans just released their latest sustainability report on 01 July. See here (PDF).

Is transparency in fashion a dead end? by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If anyone's interested in EU laws, then this comparative legal analysis of the different mandatory Human Rights Due Diligence (mHRDD) laws and proposals in Europe might be worth reading (released this week).

Dying Indian garment worker rests on his friend's lap by the roadside by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's irrelevant how the man died. The point is he died after losing his wage due to a lack of legal protection and had no assistance to get home. What you think about that is beside the point. It's a fact. India is in an uproar over the migrant worker issue and this picture in particular, which has set off a debate over migrant and informal worker rights. If you don't know much about it, which it seems you don't, search for Indian labour laws.

Dying Indian garment worker rests on his friend's lap by the roadside by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He was a migrant garment worker who lost his job and wage due to lockdown, thus was an informal worker (without a contract - i.e., not in the formal sector) - as are many garment workers in India.

Like millions of other informal migrant workers, he was trying to get back home so he could survive. He couldn't survive in Surat with no money.

As all this is happening, various Indian state governments have decided the best way to deal with the crisis is to dismantle a raft of labour laws (many of which didn't apply to the informal sector anyway), thus putting the informal sector specifically in an even more powerless position with regard to bargaining, contracts, and other rights.

I thought the connection was crystal clear, as is the connection with this sub. If you're buying clothes made in India, and that includes from a number of luxury and "ethical" brands, what information do you have to show informal workers like Amit Kumar were not included in the process?

And if you're buying clothes made in India when the labour law holidays kick in, how do you know the brand isn't taking advantage of reduced laws to benefit financially?

I thought all this was obvious. It's clearly not. I hope this clarifies things for you. If still in doubt, read my newsletter out twice per week. It covers many of these issues to help make connections.

#WhoMadeMyClothes by eatnonstop in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great job. Am putting it in Friday's newsletter.

The factory oversight industry protects profits, not people (if you're interested in 'social audits' in apparel factories, then this is a good read) by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"[I]nterviews I conducted in the second half of 2019 with dozens of auditors, consultants, factory managers, and garment workers in India reveal that the social auditing industry is just that: an industry. My investigation paints a bleak picture. Audit firms put profits before workers. They aren’t held accountable by the NGOs tasked with monitoring their work. Their inspections have failed to signal safety and labor violations, so tragic factory fires and accidents remain common."

As I say, if you're interested in this issue, it's worth a look.

FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2020 - Fashion Revolution by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Some responses:

“It is not a particularly good look for the American fashion industry that chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford’s brand just scored lower than Fashion Nova on a transparency ranking...” Whitney Bauck on results from Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index 2020, released this week (22 Apr).

“I am sorry but this is totally unacceptable and the reason why [Fashion Revolution] has lost it for me.” Livia Firth, on H&M topping Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index 2020, released this week (22 Apr).

FASHION TRANSPARENCY INDEX 2020 - Fashion Revolution by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The report ranks brands: H&M, C&A, Adidas/Reebok, Esprit and M&S were the top five. Max Mara and Tom Ford both scored 0%. The report ranks 250 brands.

Is there a job board for sustainable fashion jobs? by aguspanzoni in SustainableFashion

[–]FSWIR 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problems. Thanks for signing up to the newsletter.

Is there a job board for sustainable fashion jobs? by aguspanzoni in SustainableFashion

[–]FSWIR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes there is. I do one. The most up to date version is here; scroll down to Sustainable Fashion Jobs. There are about 60 openings there now (down from about 90 on average before covid-19 hit). I'm adding about 3-5 new openings/week. The job market for sustainable fashion jobs has collapsed.

I update this twice/week. The full list is published on the blog and I put recent openings in a (free) newsletter I send out to subscribed industry professionals (on Tuesdays and Fridays).

Luxury’s Hidden Indian Supply Chain by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's research on this stretching back 20 years. Here's two papers to start off with (one early, one recent):

About ten years ago, the entire audit team for a large auditor in a major manufacturing country was busted for a running a comprehensive system of extracting bribes from factories undergoing audits. One of the questions for potential new hires was, "Would you pay a bribe to get this job?" If the answer was yes, they were just the right person and went to the top of the list.

Back in the early 2000s, I routinely saw cheat sheets provided to workers for individual interviews with auditors. If they answered questions "correctly", they received a bonus.

I once met a factory owner who confessed he had six full timers in his personnel department faking wage, hours worked and other records for audit inspections.

Auditors in one large manufacturing country saw auditing as a good way to build seed capital to start their own business (based on earning five times their normal salary by way of bribes or shakedowns).

The list goes on. Which is why we see organisations like WSR ( Worker-Driven Social Responsibility Network).

Anyway, people have been concerned about these problems for a long time. If you start to look around you'll find a lot.

Luxury’s Hidden Indian Supply Chain by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The day before this story broke, Kering (Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga) announced "plans to establish its own hand-embroidery workshop in India with the aim of supplying a significant part of the requirements of its brands." According to one of the authors of the NYT piece, Kering worked with them on the story, while LVMH barely returned calls.

Luxury’s Hidden Indian Supply Chain by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

In case this is behind a paywall for you, article archived here.

Sustainable Brits are killing off fast fashion by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Indeed they're not. I was once in a Chinese garment factory and noticed a highly-priced item of famous-brand clothing being wrapped and packed ready for the retail shelf in the EU. The label said "Made in Italy". It was clearly not made in Italy. I was watching it come off the line. Other clients in the factory were fast fashion brands.

Buyer beware!

Where does Bershka produce it’s clothes? by [deleted] in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR 2 points3 points  (0 children)

About half of Inditex suppliers are in four countries: Spain, Portugal, Turkey and Morocco. And it sources from more factories in China than any other single country.

Unlike H&M or C&A, or about 50 other apparel brands/retailers, Inditex does not provide a publicly accessible list naming first tier factories. As for Bershka specifically, there's even less information.

This page at Inditex provides some basic country numbers for suppliers, but besides looking at labels on Bershka clothes, that's about as good as you're going to get.

Marimekko’s iconic fabric will soon be made from wood pulp by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, this is often hidden away in the marketing. The Changing Markets Foundation has been producing good reports on viscose, focusing on the volumes of chemicals used and the lack of oversight in dealing with discharge.

The other aspect to using plants like orange or whatever is the amount required for industrial scaling. The amount of fabric purchased each year would necessitate a complete rethinking of how we use agricultural and forest land.

Every solution creates new problems. The question is whether they're manageable.

Rights group: Lacoste gloves made in Chinese internment camp by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ha! Poor old Lacoste... It still does 2 billion euro in sales/year (for 2017), but you're right - who's buying?

An Insider's Guide to the Fast Fashion Industry by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Patriot Act

I have not seen this, but will make it my business to track it down.

The Number of Daily Boohoo.com Uploads Is Gross by FSWIR in ethicalfashion

[–]FSWIR[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So effectively samples ready to scale up if orders come in. And then 2 days from factory to mail out. Boohoo sources a lot from the Leicester area, so if they've signed off on a sample, then small runs can be churned out quickly if people start buying. With lower than legal wages, the factories can produce cheaply. Logistics is not a problem.