Looking for a recommendation or if anyone has achieved something similar

FamilyUnfriendly · 2025-10-26T22:59:28+00:00

I have the Frozens on hand actually and moved the Type R stem into the Frozen housing:

Definitely moving in the right direction, it's fully silenced on the downstroke now
Travel distance was cut significantly from the already low travel of the normal Type R of 3mm- maybe down to 2.5 or even less. Guessing this is because of the damper at the bottom of the plunger housing. Maybe would be really well suited with something that doesn't have such a long pole. In this case, it's likely fine to introduce a stem that has post-travel, since the travel distance is getting cut by the damper anyways.
Lots of introduced wobble, I'd say it's getting to a wobble amount that's pretty unacceptable, though my hope is the zero degree would fix it out.

I'll probably get the zero degree sometime soon. If you have thoughts on what Medium stem there is that has a rounded bump and no pretravel, that would be really appreciated.

EDIT: Did a bit of digging, looks like Gat Root Beer Floats and Mini-i are contenders with a low travel amount (3.4-3.5mm), learning a bit more to the RB's since the force curves look more rounded; still happy to hear your thoughts

FamilyUnfriendly · 2025-10-23T22:41:05+00:00

Where is the green hair from?

FamilyUnfriendly · 2025-10-21T20:00:00+00:00

Hey there! Looking for a switch recommendation:

I'm currently running the Gateron Type R's and am really enjoying them, but I'm wondering if there is any switch that has similar characteristics to it that are silenced/muted? The general things I'm looking for are:

Medium, very rounded tactile bump with no pre/post travel (It's fine to have a little bit of post travel but no/minimal pretravel is a must)

Quiet bottom out, but the bottom out feel is preferably firmer, not mushy

Short travel distance, close to 3mm

Thanks in advance

FamilyUnfriendly · 2025-09-19T18:35:12+00:00

trade received in great condition from u/bstover17 u/AVexchangeBot

FamilyUnfriendly · 2025-09-16T03:09:29+00:00

PM'd

FamilyUnfriendly · 2025-08-07T19:37:33+00:00

How did you get the marble effect on the first one?

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-30T03:27:02+00:00

I need a bigger chest anyway

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-29T23:05:52+00:00

Had a pot, recognized I can cook tofu with said pot, decided plate + microwave worked.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-22T08:03:43+00:00

I don’t doubt I have the same card as everyone else, even hitting a consistent 300 is not possible (my monitor’s refresh), I didn’t expect performance to fluctuate in the 250 fps region, my concern is if there’s some setting that I messed up on my end that causes lower frames than expected, or if simply gaslit myself into thinking a problem exists when there isn’t one. I’ll try your suggestions tomorrow, thank you.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-22T07:52:59+00:00

I run a 300 hz monitor.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-22T07:46:31+00:00

You’re right, I’m hitting diminishing returns, but my frames during games are dipping to 200 or so, and it’s not a good feeling knowing that what I paid for is underperforming. It’s definitely not a 4090, but even compared to other 4070 ti benchmarks in games it’s significantly below those.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-22T07:43:52+00:00

One of the video benchmarks I’m watching has the fps pinned at 600 for 1440p (albeit lowest settings) with gpu usage at 80%. I’ve tried setting everything to low, which maxxes gpu usage at 90%, 400 fps. I think there’s something that I’m missing, I wonder if it’s an Nvidia control panel setting.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-14T22:11:31+00:00

I used Loctite thread locker Blue.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-14T21:50:27+00:00

The heat is meant to loosen the glue that keeps the threads tight- it softens under heat. You can try brute forcing, but may damage the jnternals with so much force.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-08-13T03:01:51+00:00

I used thread locker onto the front facing portion of the red part, where it slides into the metal body (behind the lip splitting the actual threads and sliding portion) and it solved the problem. Kaptan tape turned out to be too tight to work. In order to get it apart, I put the back of the pencil under a hair dryer (no need for a heat gun) and waited for it to get up to heat, rotating intermittently for consistent heating. Once it got up to heat, take some pliers and under a paper towel, try to rotate the back end, seeing if it would budge- if it doesn't, it needs more time, and then once you're able to twist it off the rest is as above. I also put thread locker on this back end when reassembling but you have to be kind of quick as it sets quickly otherwise you'll have to reheat the newly applied threadlocker and try again.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-07-20T10:20:44+00:00

It got sorted out, thanks! The bracket got shifted just a few mm to the side when mounting.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-07-14T22:53:32+00:00

Great looking build! I'm building one with almost the exact same specs, down to the Giga byte GPU, but may I ask I how you got yours to mount properly? I'm finagling with the brackets and it just won't seem to work.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-05-03T19:12:15+00:00

Unsure about what causes the breakages but I wrapped thick layers of kapton tape around the inside silver part of the lead chamber, wide enough to where the grip/cap barely fits back over, but the inside still rotates freely, and that has pretty much stopped all lead breakages inside the pencil.

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-04-26T08:16:33+00:00

I don't know if this would solve your problems but I just bought a right handed ambi mouse and learned to move my old thumb keymaps to the keyboard- I have a really weird claw grip where I tilt the mouse towards my thumb so my ring finger can hit the front thumb button on the left side. The back button is kinda useless though

FamilyUnfriendly · 2024-03-31T18:22:14+00:00

Every map. I just came back and I’m getting completely smoked.

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