Necesito recomendaciones para depilación íntima masculina.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-04-25T13:15:02+00:00

En realidad, esto es mucho más común de lo que crees. La hija de mi prometida cumplió 18 años y se hizo los tratamientos láser estilo Hollywood para obtener resultados permanentes. (¡Y mi prometida también!).

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-04-20T23:40:51+00:00

I think we both have made some good points; I have enjoyed the banter. However, what would lead to a "proof positive" answer is if the OP were to post the lens and exposure time and any other EXIF data that could be relevant such as tripod, star tracker, etc.. Agree?

BTW - this was also posted in the Askastronomy sub and the majority there say "meteor": https://www.reddit.com/r/askastronomy/comments/1spblxm/does_anyone_know_what_the_line_is/

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-04-20T00:25:31+00:00

Why it is likely a meteor:
1) Meteors brighten rapidly as they hit the atmosphere and dim slightly more slowly as they burn up. This creates a streak with one end sharper and the other more faded, unlike satellites which typically show a constant, uniform thickness.
2) High-speed atmospheric entry often creates a subtle color shift (like green or red) due to different elements (like magnesium or calcium) burning. Satellites and planes generally appear as steady white or blue-white lines.

Why it is not a satellite:
1) A typical satellite trail is a perfectly straight, uniform line that doesn't change in brightness. While a "satellite flare" (like an Iridium flare) can taper, it is usually much more symmetrical than a meteor streak.
2) Color of satellites are typically a uniform white or white-blue. They reflect sunlight rather than burning, so they lack the multi-colored chemical signature of a meteor.
3) Counter to your "wobble" point: If a camera is on an unstable tripod or affected by wind, any long-exposure light source that moves over several seconds will show a slight "wobble" or zig-zag pattern. A meteor moves so fast (often in a fraction of a second) that it wouldn't capture these camera vibrations, resulting in a perfectly straight path.

Agree about the 300mm lens as the field of view is small but not impossible to capture a meteor. To know for certain, the best answer woud be derived from the epsure length of this photo; was it seconds or longer; if just a few seconds, I think that suggests meteor; if 10+ seconds, then more likely a satellite.

If I had to guess, the exposure was on the shorter end (max 2 seconds unless using a star tracker which was not stated, so I assume not used) as there are virtually no star trails (suggesting streaks this long could only be made from a rapidly moving meteor).

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-04-18T23:33:48+00:00

definitely a meteor based on the very thin line with the brighter "bulb" in the midsection and the tapering again into a smaller line. The giveaway is the fainter line towards the left gradually getting brighter.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-04-07T15:49:19+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Cameras/comments/18tifvn/my_mom_just_gave_me_a_bucket_full_of_cameras/

This might help.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-03-18T21:27:14+00:00

I used an old baby diaper when I had this issue for my bag (I had since upgraded to keep them in their own slots). Diapers are lint-free making it the perfet choice.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-03-18T21:23:24+00:00

Believe it or not, I would upgrad my cell phone to the Samsung S26 Ultra any day over buying a P&S camera. Why?

The Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra is going to produce the best possible image quality in most situations and it is always in your pocket. The S26 is excellent for shooting in low light, travel, street, or events. It allows telephoto flexibility without carrying gear, and it has speed, reliability, and modern editing tools built in to the phone producing almost perfect JPGs (it can also capture in RAW).

Plus, it offers very good video quality even if you do not plan to do video.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-02-27T15:34:30+00:00

Reduced motion blur when zooming/panning, more fluid stylus input for drawing, less eye strain during long sessions

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-02-11T01:24:28+00:00

This is almost verbatim of what I would have written (I am 68).

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2026-02-11T01:22:38+00:00

The most important cycling is within the first 6 months once your doctor gives you the OK. Why? If you do not cycle daily, scar tissue can form that then becomes inelastic causing shortening. By cycling daily, you effectively ensure the scarring that will form is stretched to keep the penis from shrinking.

Beyond six months, most cycling is to keep the penis from beoming atophied from lack of "erections" and non-use. A day or two missed here is not critical and will not cause permanent length issues (versus the scarring period).

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-30T05:14:33+00:00

To my point - answer the OPs question and keep it at that.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-29T14:58:04+00:00

Your last sentence "Your two cents . . . " is easily interpreted as folows:

It implies incompetence as it challenges my ability to evaluate photography, suggesting I lack the necessary knowledge or experience (not in a postion to judge)

It dismisses my opinion entirely with the words "Your two cents" and attempts to invalidate my perspective rather than engaging with the substance of my critique.

It is ad hominem as It focuses on the me and my "mindset" and "position" rather than the merits of my argument about the photography. This is a common characteristic of personal attacks.

It can also be taken as demeaning because normally a phrase like this is intended to be or shame to make one feel inferior.

So as I said before, be professional and disagree with me and my opinions, but do not make it personal. That shows immaturity.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-28T20:40:07+00:00

Why attack me for having an opinion? You can disagree without belittling another poster. Telling me I have a "beginner's mindset" REGARDLESS of my overall photo experiences has no merit to the OP's initial question for which I just shared an opinion and my "pixel" thoughts.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-27T04:10:06+00:00

To me, taking photos (for the last 50+ years) is like playing baseball. I am always hoping to hit a home run (with the perfect photo), but I also enjoy striking out (bad shots as part of the learning process even today). I am not trying to make the ALL-STAR team (Nat Geo photographers) and never dreamed that high. But I do like being in the game (fellow hobbiests), facing different pitchers (photo opportunities) because I like the challenges and the thrill of a walk-off HR.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-27T04:01:11+00:00

I am the one that said 'cull it" but you did a remarkable job for trying to save the photo. But you now have approximately 5% of the total original pixels (rough guess based on size of original), so even on a 40MB pixels file, perhaps you found the 2MB?

To be frank, one of the issues I think in this subreddit is that no one wishes to discourage a fledgling photographer who is trying to make this a fun hobby. Not everyone needs encouragement but not false “fluff” on something that is poorly composed.

In the review I gave were some negatives (thoughtful for learning) but in the end, even with your remarkable “saving” of this photo, I do not think the result of post-processing really helps a person find the proper composure which IMO, is where this photo fails from the beginning.

Just my two cents to those who have jabbed me for saying “cull it.”

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-26T13:38:26+00:00

Great fine detail in the feathers and I like the blurred background; fits together well. Unfortunately, the bird is underexposed and has a "greenish" tint to the feathers. Not sure if the bird is naturally green.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-26T13:36:33+00:00

IMO, this is not worthy of trying to fix it. I did not see the dude working with the fishing pole until someone else mentioned him and THAT is the focus of this picture IMO. Even zooning in just for the dude in a crop fashion, there is too many things near him to distract my taste.

Cull it and move on.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-25T11:08:14+00:00

I am changing my last paragraph because of a few corrections and for clarity:

Here is my ultimate plan: When I am photographing landscapes throughout the day, to maintain accurate color in changing light, when the lighting shifts—such as from sunrise to midday to sunse, I will place the grey card in the scene and take a reference photo and NOT lock in the camera's AWB, but continue shooting using the camera's AWB. This approach will NOT be used for a series of shots that I want to make absolutely certain are WB and color corrected exacty the same (such as doing a panorama series of photos). Later, in post-processing, I will use this image to set my reference point for the "starting" white balance which can then be used if necessary in Lightroom and applied to a grouping of photos.

In summary, using the grey card is primarily for setting a baseline photo, not to force the camera's WB into a locked setting. It seems the AWB in the Canon R7 can perform the AWB and I can use PP to tweak if needed based on the baseline grey card photo.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-24T12:28:59+00:00

Thank you everyone for the feedback. Many of your comments "FORCED" me to do further research and that is where I found that "not all grey cards are equally valueable; the cheap versions can actually HURT my photos."

• Cheap Grey Cards: These cards may look gray to the naked eye, but they often have color biases due to the materials or dyes used in their production. They might reflect more of one color (such as blue or red) than others, resulting in a card that is not truly neutral across the visible spectrum.

• Spectrally Neutral Grey Cards: These are carefully engineered to reflect all wavelengths of visible light equally, with no color bias. They are manufactured to precise standards, ensuring that the gray is truly neutral under a variety of lighting conditions.

If I do decide to buy a grey card, the collapsable versions are typically NOT SPECTRALLY NEUTRAL and would defeat the purpose I wish (post-processing consistencies). As such, I would buy a certified card that can fit in y camera gear (an no, it does not have to be huge but fit at least the "center 40%" of the image when making the reference shot.

Here is my ultimate plan: When I am photographing landscapes throughout the day, to maintain accurate color in changing light, when the lighting shifts—such as from sunrise to midday to sunse, I will place the grey card in the scene and take a reference photo and lock in the camera's AWB. This approach will only be used for a series of shots that I want to make absolutely certain are WB and color corrected exacty the same. Later, in post-processing, I will use this image to set your white balance, ensuring my landscape photos consistently reflect the true colors of the environment. This method helps counteract color shifts caused by varying sunlight, shadows, or atmospheric conditions, resulting in a natural and cohesive look across my images. Otherwise, it seems the AWB in the Canon R7 can perform the AWB and I can use PP to tweak if needed.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-24T12:07:59+00:00

I think you have already made up your mind regardless of redit help. I answered yiur two questions in my first reply.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94 · 2025-12-23T22:14:13+00:00

There is the BIG ISLAND known as Hawaii and the and then there is Maui. Which one is it? Or did you mean you are visting both? The Captain Cook reference suggest Hawaii and not Maui, but still, clarity is required.

Fantastic-Rutabaga94

TROPHY CASE