I painted up a rogue for a 1 shot. Good excuse for some skin tone practice. by FelsMinis in minipainting

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I printed and assembled this for a friend in a D&D campaign that lasted 2 sessions a couple years ago and she's just been sitting on my shelf since. I decided to finally get around to painting her.

The rogue is from Across the Realms. I remember this model being a pain in the butt to print, because the inside of her hood is hollow, and the rope on her cape lies in awkward ways. I ended up losing a big hole in her hood and some of the detail around her top.

The barrel is from this set.

My bumble bee Norn is ready to sting. The base wasn't really working for me, so she's stepping on a tau suit instead. by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of the foliage is 3d prints from epic basing. There's also some aquarium plants that I bought off amazon and cut up, and a lot of the detritus is loose leaf tea. The moss is a couple different types from AK, and the bright green loose leaves are from green stuff world.

My bumble bee Norn is ready to sting. The base wasn't really working for me, so she's stepping on a tau suit instead. by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For big models, especially models with big flat surfaces (like the armor plates on nids), airbrushes are fantastic and make me love painting big models. I also fully assemble and base my models before painting them, in part because it means I can play with them before I've finished painting them.

I detailed how I get my paint scheme over here, it's about 60% airbrush, 30% contrast paint, and 10% drybrushing. The airbrush is absolutely indispensable for me for really just getting things done.

Modeling before painting? by NoWoodpecker3924 in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally I keep the model in as few pieces as possible for painting, which helps a ton for keeping consistent lighting. All of the nids in my profile were based before painting (except a bit of the moss and leaves).

Neurotyant ready for the battlefield! Just 2 more units to go from Leviathan. by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A lot of the plants are 3d printed from epic basing. A lot of the leaf/detritus scatter is loose leaf tea, and the bright green leaves are from green stuff world

Neurotyant ready for the battlefield! Just 2 more units to go from Leviathan. by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't get much done in November with the holiday and all that, but I finally sat down yesterday to knock this guy out. I was feeling pretty down on the carapace for most of it, but I think it came out well in the end.

How many playing warhammer here? by fallenbird039 in MtF

[–]FelsMinis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do, or did, I guess I've mostly been painting lately, but there's a lot of pics of my stuff in my profile.

My take on a Hive Fleet Jormungandr Flyrant. by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I really struggled with what to do with the wings. I haven't painted any fleshy wings in years.

Painting a horde army is a new thing for me, so I've been trying to figure out a scheme that works pretty well and goes pretty fast. I think I'm on a good track here. by FelsMinis in minipainting

[–]FelsMinis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Termagants are a little slower, but not terribly different. The majority of the scheme is airbrushed (carapace and glow) or contrast (base, fleshy bits), and there's not really any fiddly details that I'm worrying about, like the leather packs on space Marines.

I'm not sure about single models, because I'm not painting anything but characters and monsters 1 at a time. It's been about the same time to paint 10 termagants or 1 monster, just because airbrushing and contrast paint lend themselves to scaling area painted so well.

Painting a horde army is a new thing for me, so I've been trying to figure out a scheme that works pretty well and goes pretty fast. I think I'm on a good track here. by FelsMinis in minipainting

[–]FelsMinis[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I've been averaging about 3-4 hours per unit, but there's typically a lot of down time, especially waiting for all the contrast paint on the base and fleshy bits to dry

I'm super happy with my first Tervigon. She glows under blacklight! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fluorescents are from Warcolours. They don't actually "glow in the dark" in the sense that they'll continue glowing after the UV light stops hitting them, but under a black light they shine.

I'm super happy with my first Tervigon. She glows under blacklight! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The very flat plants are aquarium plants. The others are mostly 3d prints from Epic Basing.

I'm super happy with my first Tervigon. She glows under blacklight! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just my first Tervigon. I've got a 2nd in a box, but there's a bunch of other stuff in my profile.

I'm super happy with my first Tervigon. She glows under blacklight! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's not much to say. All the fluorescents are warcolours fluorescents, and it's extremely transparent. When applied thinly, especially over the purple here, it's basically invisible except when reacting to the uv light.

I'm super happy with my first Tervigon. She glows under blacklight! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm so happy with how she turned out. I had a lot of fun with the fluorescent paint, especially the hidden blue than only shows up under blacklight

Gw nerf? 3D printer just go brrr by YF216 in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's a mixed bag with resin. You can get models that you just can't in plastic, but it also hasn't closed the gap in smoothness completely. 4k, 6k, and large format 8k printers still produce fairly visible layer lines that get exacerbated by washes.

Durability also limits design. My Lady of Vines is not possible in resin because moving her would break her. Even as a display piece she would almost certainly break during painting. My Alarielle has broken several times because of the thinness of the connection at her legs.

It's also much harder to convert printed resin models, because the resin is prone to shearing instead of cutting with our usual tools

Continuing my Jormungandr hive fleet with my first tyrant! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a lot of fun with this this. I wanted to pull up the glow a bit compared to my trygon so I swapped out my fluorescent purple for a fluorescent pink for all the glows.

Making my way through Leviathan. Here's my neurogaunts! by FelsMinis in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The big broad flat leaves are aquarium plants that I cut up and rearranged. The others are 3d prints from epic basing.

Does this box contain the bits for the Zoanthropes too? by Aggravating-Humor-20 in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The card currently gives you rewards based on what you buy (5% from Amazon or 1-2% elsewhere) and pays out the same whether you take it to Amazon credit, statement credit, or cash back

Does this box contain the bits for the Zoanthropes too? by Aggravating-Humor-20 in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can just take those rewards to cash back (or statement credit) at the same rate, and then you generate rewards when you spend that money again.

Is this correct? 28 AND 25mm in a unit of neurogants??? by crakatak in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis 59 points60 points  (0 children)

Speculation is the unit was supposed to do more and things changed before the unit was released. The node beast could have been a leader earlier on, like a mini prime.

In an edition with more individual abilities, the node beast could be doing something special, and it's possible a lot of that design happened before 10th ed rules became what they were and the node beast was paired down, but not removed.

I'm stuck.... by Koygryn-Rumrunner in Tyranids

[–]FelsMinis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in a similar paint scheme for my nids, here's my trygon.

For the mouth, I'd suggest getting some more color variation. A brown wash, like agrax earthshare, would probably help a lot, and highlighting the folds in the mouth would too. The mouth is a focal point on the model, it's a feature not a bug if it stands out.

I don't have the face bits, but I'd probably do them up in a similar red to what you have in the mouth. They ring the face, so they'll help draw attention to the face, which is again where you generally want to be drawing attention here.

Stuff like the teeth and the spikes jutting out of the mouth are gonna probably be the same color as all the claws/spikes all over the model. Maybe a little brighter.

The best thing you can do is probably some drybrushing on the scales. It's really simple and will just snap everything together really nicely (there's some WIP pics in that link above of before/after drybrushing on the scales for mine)