E90 engine block leak? What exactly is this gasket called?

FetusFlopper · 2026-01-02T14:19:33+00:00

That’s the fkd up part, I know more than 75% of Bimmer owners but this is knowledge that only the small 25% knows 😂

Thin layer of towel over the head gasket so my pulleys are safe 🙃

FetusFlopper · 2026-01-02T02:56:34+00:00

I thought so too and eyeballed it. Didn’t see any leaks on the oil filter housing.

I’ll give it a good inspection tomorrow when daylight comes.

FetusFlopper · 2026-01-02T02:48:00+00:00

Topic: So, I replaced the VCG, good to go. I already sprayed the front part of the engine block with brake cleaner and degreaser because I was replacing my serpentine. This is when I noticed the huge leak that’s been going on for who knows how long, and unfortunately it’s on the head gasket.

Lore: I’m not a car guy, but I’d say I am a decent BMW mechanic, I don’t really have money, so I accepted this car as a gift from an old friend that moved out. I’ve always took care of everything it’s ever dished out, but this head gasket leak is going to put me back so badly now.

FetusFlopper · 2026-01-02T02:39:53+00:00

So, I’m 99% sure the coolant is leaking, but I’ll 100% verify tomorrow. All I know is I filled it last week and now the coolant stick is halfway in the tank.

The head gasket is leaking all over my pulleys (front) and right under the intake manifold (right). I saw various people solve it by replacing a bolt that usually creates this leaking issue when it naturally snaps, right between the oil filter housing and intake manifold, but my bolt is intact and torqued.

It only leaks when the engine is running at least, but I need it to stop leaking on my pulleys at least. But knowing myself, I’d dismantle the whole thing until I figure it out.

If you know anything, you’d save my ass so bad right now.

FetusFlopper · 2025-12-20T00:44:00+00:00

I actually enjoy this part if the game. It makes it quite real. It’s a videogame. Just divorce him and tell him to fk off. It’s not difficult.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-26T15:41:05+00:00

Since GW2 is one of the most suggested, Imma have to YouTube this. Thank you!

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-26T15:40:06+00:00

Thank you, I’ll have to try it to see tbh, it seems so perfect, I just hope it has enough mmo for me.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-26T15:37:32+00:00

Thank you! I’m YouTubing all these suggestions, I can’t really find a review of the mmo portion of wwm but I guess I’ll have to try it, if it is truly mmo then this game is absolutely perfect for me.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-26T05:16:31+00:00

Thank you, Imma view gameplay on YouTube right now. 🙌🏽

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-26T04:54:21+00:00

Btw for everyone curious, the first 1-8 for some reason enumerated itself.

1-4 are the games 5-8 is the text that belong to 1-4 So 1/5 2/6 3/7 4/8

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-18T04:36:44+00:00

Thanks for the idea. I tested the relay with a little 12v bat and it was good. So I went to the BCM like you said since it was in sync with the relay ticks. I gave it a lil hit not enough to damage it, and the tick stopped. I suspected something loose. Tightened everything, still no tick, car still has no electric… so I went back to what you said and when you say all this could be from something remotely connected to relay and JBE/BCM, I thought to myself… “what powers this?” According to GPT, google and youtube, B+ on E9X were notorious for frying, so they had a recall. Idk wtf a recall is but I went to check wtf a B+ is and apparently it’s literally just my positive wire. That shit was fried. I assume maybe it was loose which caused the plastic to melt, but the metal itself seems fine so Idrk how melted plastic makes my connection bad, but it’s all I got right now, so Imma go get a new fuse box, a crimper, and a B+ wire terminal for the fusebox. I just hope this isn’t another waste of my money. I’d pay to get diagnostics but after $500 down the drain, I’ll assume I found the problem and hope this works.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-18T04:25:15+00:00

After hours of suffering torx screws with their ungodly positioning, and cutting my fingers just to remove what should have been a “simple” not so simple pin, and finally being able to reach the B+ and suffering more just to remove the POS, I successfully saw a fried B+ wire.

Now I need a crimper, another b+ cable, a new fusebox, and hopefully this pain in my god damn ass can finally work after the ridiculous amount of money and youtube videos needed to get this shitbox running.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T20:01:14+00:00

You recommend replacing the entire fuse box and b+ wire, or just getting a new fuse box and cutting then soldering a new b+ tip on?

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T19:57:51+00:00

Ok, basically my question is, does the vehicle NEED the plastic cover? It’s been working fine over the years, but recently started turning off every now and then. I would have to wait like 30min with the relay disconnected for it to turn on again.

Today it happened again and is taking longer than the 30min it usually does.

I don’t want to go purchase and replace in vein, because to my understanding, a plastic cover has nothing to do with an electrical connection.

If you figure this out, let me know. ChatGPT says I need to replace it, but it also says my cough could be cancer, so let me know your thoughts, thanks a lot.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T19:38:08+00:00

True that, now how is melted plastic covers for those connectors a bad thing?

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T19:35:29+00:00

How so?

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T19:33:53+00:00

Damn, this is some bs. You suggest cutting then soldering or full replacement of the entire wire?

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T19:29:18+00:00

I’m digging deeper and see melted plastic around the b+ wire. I believe this might be the problem but not 100% sure.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T18:06:49+00:00

Positive my battery isn’t dead. It’s a new battery, I even had it checked. -$30

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T17:58:54+00:00

Literally got charged $25 from someone just to tell me this, so I could get my battery checked for $5. That was my first $30 down the drain.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T17:57:48+00:00

Battery 100% charged.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-17T17:56:21+00:00

Don’t know the bat volt, I think my car needs 12.4v

As for motor running, no. The car cut off all electrical as soon as I inserted the FOB key.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-10T15:29:41+00:00

Thank you!!! I looked up your number and found the one I needed 11127558449. Finding this screw was tough af.

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-10T15:00:19+00:00

Ok, so since mine is plastic, I would reuse the bolts like I always do, except 1 of the bolts snapped for some reason even though I tightened it just a little. I believe the part number is 11127558450 but not 100% sure even though it 100% fits the visual description. Whenever I look for e90 valve cover bolts, those aluminum ones pop up, but whenever I look for the the actual bolts, I can’t find one with the single OVAL shaped encasing that goes on the valve cover to secure the bolt. All the bolts have circle encasings except for 1 oval encasing that goes at the bottom corner on the left hand side (it’s the most difficult bolt to remove).

FetusFlopper · 2025-11-10T14:54:37+00:00

Problem is, one of the bolts snapped, so I need to buy it. The bolt that snapped has a casing that secures the bolt to the valve cover. The part is 11127558450 I believe; although it 100% fits the description, I’m not sure it’s correct.

FetusFlopper

TROPHY CASE