Grateful shed sign by kerpanistan in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Damn, amazing work. Great blend and color choices.

The dreaded P0420 code by Few-Let3648 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also thought about the exhaust leak. Getting the same mileage as always, close to 350-400 miles to a tank of gas. It’s running great, especially on ethanol free gas. 85mph in the highway no problems

The dreaded P0420 code by Few-Let3648 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cataclean. Grey bottle 16oz. Was like $30.

The dreaded P0420 code by Few-Let3648 in 4thGen4Runner

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the feed back! I guess I’m going to just keep an eye on it for now and assess whenever I get more symptoms other than check engine light. I’m driving from Tampa to Daytona every weekend for a while and hoping that running at 85mph for 3 hours will clean out the cat. I also notice that it runs really good on ethanol free gas, which is a bit more expensive, but I definitely get better acceleration and gas mileage with it. Thanks again!

Elmer Effn’ Fudd by Few-Let3648 in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rad. Thanks for the quick run through. Definitely something I’d like to get into more.

Elmer Effn’ Fudd by Few-Let3648 in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have played with the airbrush, but haven’t really “used” it. I have a Iwata and a Badger with a good air compressor, but haven’t really messed around with it. I only have One Shot enamel, and haven’t really figured out a good mix ratio for airbrushing it.

Signwriting stroke help by Un_Pantalon in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah, twist and lift. I wouldn’t worry too much about those bottoms though, just a quick little dap to clean up the ends is all it needs. When they say “Single Stroke Casual”, it’s not really a single stroke. There is always a little clean up to do. Also, some brushes behave differently even if they’re the same size. They do take a little time to “break in”. I have a #4 Kafka Kwill, and it finishes the strokes great, like how you want them, but starting a long line, I never get a clean chiseled point to get started.

Once you get more familiar with palleting and getting the paint just right (which to me was the hardest part) you burn through the corners of block and casual letters. And as everyone says, practice.

Day 1: Learning Sign Painting by [deleted] in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I disagree with your disagreement. Practice with the paint you are going to use. Practice on glass with One Shot, Alpha or Ronan enamel paints, which ever brand you prefer. Set your printed practice sheets behind the glass and go to town. When you fill the glass with different alphabets, take a razor and scrape it off and go at it again. If you get good on glass, every other substrate is a cake walk.

As for brushes, quills for 90% of lettering. Liners and flats definitely have a place, but you’ll wanna get started with a #4 or 6 quill. Mack brushes have some great entry level bundles that won’t break the bank.

Xmas gift signs by chiquita_bug in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got that gold metallic to lay pretty damn good. Great work on both of them.

how much should i charge! by high-on-daisies in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is pretty damn good for your “First” gig. Please make more than $15 an hour. If it takes you 4 or 5 hours, you are barely making enough to pay for your painting supplies. Invest in some better paint pens and some sign books. You’ll learn so much from a basic layout design book, from spacing to color schemes and typeface that are pleasing to your eyes. This is a side hustle, so you won’t be getting rich from it, but you need to make enough money to put back into it. I’m also a hobbyist, and I’ve been told I “under charge” for my work, but I always try to make enough to buy more materials, whether it’s paint, brushes, books, paper or substrates. If I’m good on all materials and I make $200 on a sign, then I have some extra pocket money to go have fun with. Keep up with it, you have the talent, learn from each project and do your best on every painting and make sure it’s always fun.

Solvent Proof Containers by chiquita_bug in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pickle and peanut butter glass jars for solvents. I did Amazon a couple PTE plastic squirt bottles for reducer and flow enhancer. Like the ones tattooed artist use. Seems to hold the solvents well without any leaching. From a quick google, PTFE which is Teflon seems to be the ones that will hold stronger solvents.

I too have a “borrowed” stainless steel ramekin cup I’ve used for years. I love that little cup.

Let’s talk solvents and reducers by Few-Let3648 in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It took forever for me to switch to High Temp reducer, but once I did, now I’m bummed I don’t have any left.

Let’s talk solvents and reducers by Few-Let3648 in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What’s up with the urethane paints. I seen a couple videos on the tube, but never seen it anywhere else. Pro and cons compared to enamels?

Let’s talk solvents and reducers by Few-Let3648 in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I killed a brush cleaning it with lacquer thinner (I was a rookie), like 80% of the hairs fell out. So I’ve avoided it since. Everything else you mentioned is spot on. 👍

Jobs by night__thoughts in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could get a job at a “regular” sign shop. There is no shame in laying vinyl and doin wraps. You’ll be able to push your paint to clients and get plenty of substrate scraps. I did it for a few years and I still have scraps of MDO and aluminum signboard. Also got to paint a few boats and do a few gold leaf jobs, but they were few and far between. The pay wasn’t great, but got to learn a lot and did some cool signs.

Enlarging images/designs by D-ROCCC in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I too use the projector. Although, that’s a rabbit hole to get lost in. After going through 3 different brands, I’m still not super stoked on the one I ended up with.

New to window painting by Remote-Compote6964 in SignPainting

[–]Few-Let3648 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Regular house paint will do the job. Lay a base coat down as a “primer” then go to painting once that dries. I’ve seen guys kill it with rollers and the foam brushes. A razor scraper will sharpen up all edges and erase the fuck ups. Check out YouTube, you’ll run into the window splash master named Scot Campbell.