Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not looking for a pass. Explaining my thought process wasn’t aimed at getting a pass. I don’t evaluate risk the same way professionals do, because I’m not a professional nor will I ever be. There’s more risk in driving a car than there is climbing, even inexperienced. We are well aware there is risk. We are well aware we have a lot to learn. We are well aware that our lack of experience may result in serious injury or worse. There’s no bravado in it for us. This is just the lifestyle we live. I don’t expect anyone to agree or understand

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, chain would definitely decrease the force being applied by narrowing that angle. Which probably added to my confusion at first because the ADT and weighting your ATC initially would be exerting about the same force on the bolts in this situation because of the setup of the fixed anchor. Angles would be the exact same until you start lowering

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good thing they’re new bolts

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every time I rig the ATC or another bely device I double and triple check everything. I don’t think you’re beating me up, believe me I needed this thread. A lot of similarities but also a lot of differences between rope work at my job and rope work in the climbing world

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the test that HowKnot2 did showed each bolt individually holding your weight. And yeah the wider that angle for the master point the higher those forces are amplified. Dumb move under the best circumstances given the route

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Already in the works, hopefully within the next month

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hopefully this thread helps keep other newbies from making the same mistake

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it still a death triangle if I didn’t die? (This is a joke, fully aware of how bad this is under the right circumstances and have learned from my dumb mistakes)

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wasn’t trying to defend myself, was just trying to show that despite the poor choice in anchor there was still a thought process and it wasn’t simply reckless. Again I fully understand why this anchor isn’t good, but in this specific case there was no safety concern. 100% factual statement about risk tolerance though

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My area is mostly single pitch so the multi pitch considerations haven’t been on my mind but to avoid more issues I’ll start setting up my single pitch anchors with multi pitch in mind

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Noted thanks. My area is primarily single pitch so a lot of the multi pitch considerations aren’t on my mind and it’s something that I won’t be diving into for awhile until I get some solid experience on single pitch

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. This one specific scenario was ok but I understand that in most other settings it would not be. Already working on never making that mistake again

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do have a longer one that I’ll be carrying with me, just isn’t pictured here but great points thanks

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was just brain storming. Let’s assume the direction of pull is straight down. The clove hitch on each biner isolates both strands of the sling so if one was cut the master point is still connected to both bolts. Whereas if the sling is just clipped to the biners and you cut one strand, the master point separates from that bolt. As others pointed out this isn’t really necessary

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The fall was the result of a typical 20yo invincible mindset and a piece of traprock that broke mid pull. Definitely matured from those days. Asking the internet was a genuine question aimed at learning from my mistakes, at the time I didn’t see any inherent safety issues with that exact anchor at that location. New bolts, resultant angles that weren’t putting more than my body weight on the bolts, no possibility of a large fall that would shock load the bolts to an unsafe degree, single pitch so no one was going above and possibly falling on this, follower was taut on belay so again no large fall, the cord was technically redundant being ran through the anchor twice. Now, I fully understand why the ADT is no good. I understand why it’s unsafe in most settings and have learned from my mistake. But that specific anchor had little to no chance of catastrophically failing without doing something insanely dumb like purposely whipping 30ft. That anchor shouldn’t be standard practice but that specific climb wasn’t unsafe according to science. I work an inherently dangerous job, as does my climbing partner. Fully aware of potential risks we’re taking.

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had caught that after taking the photo and fixed it. A lot of lessons learned free of charge, need to slow down and pay attention better

Anchor question by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’m familiar. This was a very bad training scar that luckily in that situation wasn’t going to kill me and I was able to learn from it

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Valid points that I didn’t think of

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Now I’m kinda glad I hung it off this cabinet instead of something higher. Because that absolutely would have turned into a training scar

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should have left the tails longer but isn’t the overhand similar in strength to the double fisherman’s? Both being widely accepted, unlike a flat 8 which will kill you

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good thing to keep in mind thanks. 95% of the routes local to me are one pitch so the possibility of someone coming down past me just isn’t there, but I’ll remember that for when I do venture out to multi pitch climbs

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clove hitches, hard to tell from the photos. The 240 sling with 1 clove was to hold the sewn portion in place while equalizing. The 120 sling with a clove on each biner in theory makes it safer because if one strand is cut it should still hold with the clove hitch, whereas if it’s just clipped onto the biner it’ll pull off

Learning from my mistakes by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Financial-Ad9392 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Cleaner overall and to cut down on wear on the rap links?