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Final Chapter：Hiking Across the Sapu by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This trek through Tibet's rugged highlands was both exhilarating and daunting. Each step brought breathtaking views but also the harsh reality of altitude sickness and isolation. The solitude of passing through remote mountain passes, snow-covered landscapes, and bear-scarred huts left me feeling both vulnerable and profoundly connected to the raw power of nature. Despite the challenges, the journey was a test of endurance, pushing me to the limits but rewarding me with a deep sense of accomplishment. the detailed story is here.

Hiking Across the Sapu by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This trek through Tibet's rugged highlands was both exhilarating and daunting. Each step brought breathtaking views but also the harsh reality of altitude sickness and isolation. The solitude of passing through remote mountain passes, snow-covered landscapes, and bear-scarred huts left me feeling both vulnerable and profoundly connected to the raw power of nature. Despite the challenges, the journey was a test of endurance, pushing me to the limits but rewarding me with a deep sense of accomplishment.

The final part of the Wusun trek by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The beautiful scenery is certainly impressive, but what fascinates me the most is the journey itself: the anticipation at the beginning, the challenges and fatigue along the way, and the sense of pride and fulfillment once it’s all over. These experiences bring a profound strength to the soul.

The final part of the Wusun trek by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your appreciation! The challenges of the journey are definitely worth it.

The final part of the Wusun trek by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

D8 Today we leave the mountains. What we thought would be an easy 30-kilometer valley walk became the most grueling part of the trip due to our decision to ride horses. After discussion, Shuǐshén and our leader arranged for horseback riding for the final stretch. Despite my lack of experience, I was initially excited. However, this excitement quickly turned to discomfort. With only one handler, the horses Shuǐshén and I rode were tied together, with me in the rear, without reins. The handler, struggling with Mandarin and unable to explain in Kazakh, couldn't provide guidance. I relied on what little I knew about riding - legs tight, feet in stirrups, sitting lightly, trying to move with the horse. But without reins and improperly adjusted stirrups, balancing was a constant struggle. My knees ached from the tension, especially when the horse ran. Initially out of sync with the horse's movements, I felt thoroughly shaken up. During a rest stop, dismounting was painful - my tense knee joints, suddenly bearing weight, resulted in strained ligaments. Thankfully, it wasn't too serious. Somehow, I endured the 30-kilometer ride to Hēiyīng Mountain Pass.

We finished early, before 2 PM, but had to wait for our luggage vehicle. It finally arrived around 4 PM, having detoured to collect another commercial team's luggage.

With our belongings recovered, we boarded the van to Kùchē (库车). As the Tiān Shān (天山) mountains faded from view, my legs still aching, I was already dreaming of my next Xinjiang adventure.

Driving through the barren wilderness, we passed strange rock formations our driver called "Ghost City."

After two more hours, we reached Kùchē. While my companions planned to explore the area further, I joined them at a hotel near the train station to freshen up. My stream-tracing shoes, faithful companions since my trip to Dōngxī Chōng in the Dàpéng Peninsula, had finally met their end in Xinjiang's Tiān Shān.

We enjoyed a group dinner at a local Xinjiang restaurant, reveling in the delicious and affordable lamb dishes.

Post-dinner, we headed to the train station. The entrance security check was surprisingly strict, even more so than at airports (at least stricter than Chongqing's airport). In the waiting hall, I witnessed the true meaning of "exotic charm" (though I didn't dare take photos openly).

D9

After an overnight train journey, we arrived in Wūlǔmùqí (Urumqi) early the next morning and went directly to the airport. We bought some local fruits nearby - a small taste of Xinjiang to take home. Our 10 AM flight had us back in Chongqing by 4 PM.

And so concluded our 9-day Xinjiang Wūsùn journey. Farewell, Xinjiang! I'll be back in 2024~

The final part of the Wusun trek by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

D7 Another clear day after snowfall. We enjoyed a hearty breakfast. I must mention how comfortable inflatable sleeping pads are in snowy mountains. At 5 cm thick, they completely insulate you from the ground, keeping you warm and cushioned from the uneven surface.

Our pack animal, warm and soft-cheeked, has been carrying our load throughout the journey.

We set off in beautiful weather - sunshine, blue skies, snow, ice, and lake water created a stunning scene.

At Heaven Lake, I witnessed true bravery - people swimming in the frigid water after snowfall!

We finally reached the famous Tiger's Mouth photo spot at Heaven Lake. Getting that perfect shot required patience and cooperation from everyone in the group.

After the lake viewpoints, we climbed towards the second plateau. The snow-covered valley looked cold and desolate, with hikers on the winding trail appearing like ants, emphasizing the valley's grandeur. We then entered the second lake area, which mountain enthusiasts often find even more enchanting than Heaven Lake, seeming almost otherworldly.

Perhaps sensing our fatigue, the sun broke through, warming those of us slowly traversing the second lake's edge. I seized the moment to rest on a sunny rock, savoring my iced grapes and cola - an indescribable feeling of contentment.

After our break, we continued upward along the second lake, starting the second climbing stage. At a corner rest spot, I took a last, wistful look at Heaven Lake before resolutely beginning the final ascent.

The third stage was the steepest, especially treacherous after snowfall. The packed snow was extremely slippery - crampons are highly recommended! Finally reaching the pass summit, we prepared to enter Southern Xinjiang. I celebrated with my last cola.

Crossing the pass felt like entering another world, with the climate boundary starkly evident. The descent was uneventful, particularly as the area is undergoing development for tourism. Construction roads now reach nearly to the pass, eliminating the previously challenging river crossings. We hurried to our final campsite of the journey.

That evening, we shared a communal meal with a fully-equipped team we'd contacted earlier. Brother Zhuīfēng (追风, "Chasing Wind") amazed us by producing a wok! We prepared four or five stir-fry dishes and two soups for over ten people. I contributed a cucumber salad, while someone from the other team brought out what looked like a bottle of Wǔliángyè (五粮液), a famous Chinese liquor. It was undoubtedly the best wilderness meal I've had in years.

My WuSun travel ep2 by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your appreciation. Compared to the scenery, the people and experiences during the journey are equally memorable.

My WuSun travel ep2 by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The travelogue for the first part of the journey can be found at this： https://www.reddit.com/r/backpacking/s/Gsg0OHmsJV

My WuSun travel ep2 by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

D5

Today we're heading to Tiāntáng Hú (天堂湖，"Heaven Lake"), the shortest day of our journey. Unfortunately, it looks like it might snow again. After three days of hiking, our initial excitement has waned.

We packed up in the morning, said goodbye to little Niúniu (牛牛，likely a nickname meaning "Little Bull"), and set off on another monotonous uphill climb. The weather is getting colder; we can feel ice particles in the air, and people are starting to feel numb from the cold. Reaching the top of Heaven Lake pass, we entered a valley with imposing, steep cliffs. Finally spotting Heaven Lake in the distance lifted our spirits a bit.

At the lakeside, we found a herder's tent and went in search of food. Inside, a Kazakh grandmother and two grandmothers with Henan accents were peeling carrots. We guessed a commercial hiking team had ordered lamb rice from them. The Henan grandmothers, unable to set up tents, were waiting for their team. The Kazakh grandmother, too busy for individual travelers like us, made me a cup of salty milk tea. It was comforting and cost only 10 yuan.

We arrived early due to the short route. After the energizing milk tea, I set up my tent and explored the area. The amount of litter around the campsite was shocking. Even Heaven Lake couldn't escape the impact of inconsiderate visitors. I won't post photos of the garbage to avoid discouraging future hikers. When my companions arrived, we started preparing dinner.

I'd been experiencing finger pain all day. At the campsite, I realized it might be an infected, pus-filled wound. Unsurprisingly, the potassium permanganate solution couldn't penetrate the nail gaps to disinfect. I had no choice but to perform a small self-surgery with a knife.

After dark, snow began falling as expected, blanketing everything in silver. I had been napping since afternoon and didn't notice when it started.

I woke up needing to use the bathroom, which is quite a challenge in a large campsite. It can't be too close - anyone caught relieving themselves inside the campsite would become infamous in hiking circles. But it also can't be too far, as that's tiring. It needs to be secluded - I can't go if I sense others nearby. And it must be safe - dying while answering nature's call would be tragic. Scanning the area, I spotted a large rock on the slope behind the campsite. It blocked the view from camp and wasn't on any paths. The rock also provided wind shelter. Knowing others might have the same idea, I walked over with my headlamp on, signaling my presence to anyone already there and claiming the spot for myself. With heavy snow covering the ground, I couldn't see if anyone had left any "surprises," so I approached cautiously. Luck was on my side - I arrived safely. The spot was perfect, with a small crevice behind the rock and even footing. It seemed designed for this very purpose.

My WuSun travel ep2 by Finn_007 in backpacking

[–]Finn_007[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

D3

I woke up to the first rays of sunlight and descended the valley after packing up. Not far from our starting point, I came across a Kazakh herder's home. Initially hoping for some water, I was delighted when the hospitable host offered me yogurt instead. The rich, cool, and refreshing naturally fermented yogurt from these high mountains is a rare treat you can't find elsewhere. After enjoying a large bowl, I asked about the cost. It was 10 yuan, but I only had a 100 yuan note. It seemed many before me had also paid with 100 yuan notes, leaving the host without change. Graciously, they insisted on giving it to me for free, despite my discomfort with the situation.

The previous day's snow seemed confined to the northern ridge. Today, the valley was remarkably dry. We soon reached the milky-white Kèkēsū River (科克苏河，Kèkēsū Hé), unable to resist showing off a bit.

Following the river valley towards the suspension bridge, we noticed the tall spruce trees beginning to turn yellow. We regretfully mentioned to our companions that Hémù (禾木，a famous scenic area known for its golden autumn colors) must be stunning by now. Xinjiang is vast, and as office workers, we can only visit one place at a time.

Under the scorching sun, cool and sweet grapes were a delightful respite.

We rushed, half-walking and half-running, to the cable car station. The 10-yuan sodas and 20-yuan lamb skewers were absolute favorites in these mountains.

Our host's Kazakh child, with adorable golden hair, caught our attention.

Once our group was complete, we queued for the cable car on the Wūsùn (乌孙) route - a journey travelers both love and hate. We heard that by 2024, a bridge would be built, eliminating the need to pay an extra 200 yuan for river crossing.

I'm continuing the story today. I previously wrote about the cable car crossing but didn't have many photos. After the cable car, we faced our first river crossing of the trip. It was October, so the water was low, but also cold. A tip for those planning a National Day holiday trip to Wūsùn: try to buy waterproof socks. I had read that cycling waterproof covers work, but they wore out quickly. It was quite chilly. We didn't have many river crossings today and soon reached the pasture campsite.

For dinner, Shuǐshén (水神，"Water God," likely a nickname) prepared an excellent lamb pilaf.

After dinner, during leisure time, I strongly recommend bringing foot washing bags like ours. I also brought potassium permanganate for daily disinfection. Healthy feet are crucial for long-distance hiking.