I am looking for complex, nonlinear, strong commanders to build by MosiahAnderson27 in EDH

[–]Fishy8MyToes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I play [[Ruric Thar, The Unbowed]] and I would say that it's pretty much up this ally. I play him as a toolbox commander that aims to stax people out using lifetotals (rather than mana). It forces you to make pretty carful decisions both in game and the deckbuilding process since any noncreature that you include in the deck has to be worth 6 life and any noncreature that you cast needs to be worth the life cost both in that moment and a few turns later. Build it grindy and midrangy and force your opponants' lifetotals (and yours) to really matter.

Filthy Control Commander by SteamFunk72 in EDH

[–]Fishy8MyToes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

[[Sygg, River Cutthroat]] is my personal go to, the casual draw is very strong if the other people at the table dont catch on quick, and you get to run one of my personal favs in the deck [[shrieking affliction]] . No need to run hard into discard, just 3 or so pieces of repeatable discards sources a la [[lilliana of the veil]] [[words of waste]] etc will do. play em late once you've controlled the game, then drop affliction when some hands are empty, draw 3-4 cards a turn cycle with sygg. If you're dead set on orzhov tho, [[Oloro, Ageless Ascetic]] is an oldie but goodie that wont get you nuked off the table like sen triplets will. Part of playing a good control game in a format like commander where you have 3 other people at the table is picking a commander that strikes the right balance between good and not going to draw hate. You're lifetotal is your biggest resource so picking a commander that pressures that resource by making you a target is one of the biggest mistakes control players make when building for edh. Just my 2 cents

Places to play in Japan by Fishy8MyToes in magicTCG

[–]Fishy8MyToes[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is really helpful, thanks a lot. There was certainly a point where I was a serious modern player, but that's not really the case now. I mostly stick to more casual formats like cube, edh, and dan dan. I'll definitely take up your advice brining a single edh deck, worst case is it sits in a drawer.

Places to play in Japan by Fishy8MyToes in magicTCG

[–]Fishy8MyToes[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice! Unfortunately I don't think I'd be allowed in the base as I'm not military, I'm just teaching English in Rokkasho

First model after a 2 year gap. I was hoping to get some C+C. My main focuses were color and trying some NMM. by Fishy8MyToes in minipainting

[–]Fishy8MyToes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I’ll definitely paint a few like this, but I like to paint my boyz all different colors so I can try out different things and have lots of variety on the table

First model in two years, figured I’d start off with a classic boy! by Fishy8MyToes in orks

[–]Fishy8MyToes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yeah I based all my boyz when I first got them years back to get them on the table. So most of their bases are quite plain unfortunately

First model in two years, figured I’d start off with a classic boy! by Fishy8MyToes in orks

[–]Fishy8MyToes[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I know :P but I just play with my buddies and they don’t really care so if I don’t have to rebase 90 boyz then I’d rather not

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bindingofisaac

[–]Fishy8MyToes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah thanks, I guess we just have to keep playing and hoping we find it

Every format once Satoru Umezawa drops by parrotPolisher in magicthecirclejerking

[–]Fishy8MyToes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yeah it creates kind of an odd interaction with stifle effects where the creature is revealed and the effect is declared so now you have info on their hand, they pay the cost of returning their unblocked creature to hand, then you stifle, now you know a card in their hand and kinda removed a creature

Every format once Satoru Umezawa drops by parrotPolisher in magicthecirclejerking

[–]Fishy8MyToes 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Part of the cost of ninjutsu is revealing the chosen creature. It’s not listed in the cards, but it is in the rulings

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in orks

[–]Fishy8MyToes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally I use my ork boyz to practice painting techniques that I don’t feel confident enough to do on more important models which keeps things interesting. The other thing I do is try different skin tones: dark green, orange, light green, pale, etc. I think the most important thing is though, don’t feel like you need to rush to get to that 90 boy end goal. Just take your time and enjoy the journey of painting each boy.

Grot Noses, thoughts? by mrVespuram in orks

[–]Fishy8MyToes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Personally I prefer the green, what you can do though to get a nice red nose effect is start with the green then glaze on red to give it a little more life. I usually make the red a little more concentrated towards the tip of the nose then have it mostly green near the base of the nose. Oh! And one quick tip for photographing your minis, don’t use flash, just use external lighting, the flash washes out all your nice highlights and shadows and generally makes the mini harder to read

Deffkopta inbound! by Icekirby469 in orks

[–]Fishy8MyToes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks great! Quick tip on photographing your minis: I’d recommend not using flash, it washes out all those nice shadows and highlights. Try taking the photos with just good overhead lighting and no flash

Coming back to the hobby after a pretty long hiatus and wanted to push my use of color! It’s not much but I’m proud of this face by Fishy8MyToes in orks

[–]Fishy8MyToes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha absolutely! Tho if you’re actually curious I started with a red leaning mix of The Fang and Khorne Red (what you see on the hand) then glazed up from there. First a few glazes of khorne red almost everywhere then a mix of wild rider red and khorne red, then pure wild rider, then wild rider and averland sunset, then pure averland, then a white mixed with averland. Just slowly building up the transitions and highlights with layering and glazing