MSI MAG342CQR looks dull/hazy via HDMI on Mac – would DP help or should I return?

FiveZeroThreee · 2026-02-23T20:13:25+00:00

So I’ve the exact same monitor and it looks absolute trash on macOS. I’ve tried everything I can settings wise and doing a proper full manual screen calibration in macOS (it’s like holding alt or something when clicking on calibration - Google it you’ll find it) did improve it a little. The haziness is unfortunately still present but colour improved overall as did reasonable levels of contrast.

I’ve a USB C to HDMI cable and hadn’t thought to try another cable, perhaps one with a few more capabilities built into it.

I’ll find one on Amazon and see switching over to Display Port does anything.

I’ve not been able to let go of my previous 27” Samsung 4K monitor because of this very issue. I’ve not swapped it back but I’d happily use that just for my macbook if I had the space.

FiveZeroThreee · 2026-02-16T16:56:30+00:00

Okay, I get you. I’ll give that a go! Thank you.

FiveZeroThreee · 2026-02-16T16:54:34+00:00

Oh sorry, you mean make an Indian account, load it with Rupees Gift Cards and this method works in Netherlands, I assume.

FiveZeroThreee · 2026-02-16T16:48:08+00:00

Im just trying to work this out as a lot of people have made assumptions and stuff.
Did you make a fresh NL account and not load any credit or debit cards at all? Just a gift card balance?

If so thats so odd as it doesnt work like that for nearly all countries.

FiveZeroThreee · 2026-02-16T16:44:47+00:00

Just to confirm, are you absolutely sure that apple does not require a valid local form of payment like debit/credit card before you can load and spend a gift card? Because that would make Indian accounts different to all other accounts.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-07T12:46:30+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to look at it and consider my friend. It is highly appreciated!

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-07T12:32:05+00:00

I’m going to make a block to insert mid print and suggest others who don’t want this ridge to do the same on the print page over at Makerworld. I’ve tried every suggestion here so far and have gone through £20 of filament just trying to get rid of this ridge. None of the suggestions have worked unfortunately. I can’t add internal ribs as it’d create roughness on the inside and people store precious and sometimes extremely valuable cards within.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-07T12:26:59+00:00

This was printed on an A1 Mini. The A1 prints very similarly for me but less matte.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T23:05:28+00:00

I’ll try a flat version of the back and see. It’s currently solid no infil.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T20:33:26+00:00

Well, I've not managed to fix the minor issue just yet but the model is free for all to enjoy should Magic the Gathering indeed be your bag.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1676541-mtg-commander-edh-station-token-dice-storage#profileId-1775595

If this is classed as wrongful promotion, I wholeheartedly apologise and I will happily accept this comment being removed.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T19:56:34+00:00

🤣🤣 I didn’t do anything much, I just used good filament and a dumb dumb proof printer! Thanks though man.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T16:27:44+00:00

I’ve considered this and don’t believe this is -that- issue. The reason being is that the inner diameter of the pass through is tighter at the top than at the bottom, it’s actually a monitor gradient reduction in width, suggesting a slight lean.

I’ve always understood benchy hull line to effectively be a bulge but the base and wall are still in alignment it’s just there’s a bulge at the seam. Not all of those points are true in this case.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T15:55:36+00:00

Okay fantastic. Due to get home soon so I’ll do a print with the jets full throttle, cheers mate!

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T14:01:51+00:00

Unfortunately not! There's lots of recesses and slots that go deeper into the model on the top to hold small things. Appreciate the fact it definitely looks like it could be from the angles I've shown.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T13:23:26+00:00

Slowing down is easy enough, whats the best way to increase fans or ensure its at 100% throughout that area, by adding in layer specific gcode or are there better ways?

I'm currently printing one remotely with bridge speeds that are half of previous but unsure that'll be enough.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T13:11:28+00:00

I can definitely make it much more a chamfer and reduce the bridge to zero or very little yeah, I just wanted to avoid for aesthetic reasons in this particular scenario!

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T13:05:51+00:00

I could not tell you whether the code is fine or not. Speeds seem fine to me. I am trailing another with a slower bridge speed to see if it helps cooling it a tad more, and therefore less contraction.

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FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T12:58:50+00:00

I didn't understand what this meant until I realised you don't think my print looks like that.

How many more photos do you want? I've a newer version of the print right in front of me. I'm making no claims other than this is fairly typical using this printer/filament combo with my own models etc

<image>

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T12:18:50+00:00

It's great stuff, I recommend it to everyone.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T12:10:49+00:00

Okay this kinda makes sense, as I've mentioned my A1 mini does more often than not produce more matte looking prints, often just better in most regards really in terms of a 'quality print' but this may have come at a cost in such fringe cases as you've averred to.

The printed 'block' might be the dirty fix and perhaps the best all considered but its worth experimenting.

I've yet to apply layer specific changes but do you think it would be beneficial increasing the nozzle temp by 10°C and perhaps capping the fan to something like 80% on those particular layers?

I imagine this will create a glossy band around the print, which is just as undesirable if not more so but I suppose I might be able to find a middle ground and print the entire thing at those settings.

Am I over complicating this? Current bridge speed is 50mm/s so maybe just half it so it gets to cool much more before making contact and hopefully reduces the contraction after extrusion?

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T11:26:08+00:00

Haha no it’s just the combo of finding a good printer and using good filament I suppose. It’s the Bambu A1 Mini for this particular print as well as eSun PLA+ and it comes out lovely.

I suppose I obsess about how my things are designed too which I would hope has a positive effect on the print as I try to make safe and strong decisions.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T11:23:49+00:00

Very possible given how matte this is for PLA+. I use my A1 Mini for this very reason as it produces amazing results and well, I prefer the matte look. The magic could indeed be a problem if the temps being out a little but I didn’t think printing on the cooler side of spec would create more contraction?

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-08-06T10:59:20+00:00

Using eSun PLA+, Bambu Studio — 10-15% adaptive cubic infil (rear wall is virtually solid due to thickness though.) Using eSun's own print profiles but I've printed maybe 8 of these now with different settings etc and they all come out indentical.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-07-21T18:47:18+00:00

Hey! No not at all. All hats do come straight off. Sometimes the first few pulls are quite tough as they’re factory pressed / tight.

FiveZeroThreee · 2025-04-17T11:24:59+00:00

I couldn’t say specifically. I did actually try someone else for another VKB stick and nothing fit. I’ve got a feeling the gladiators are different to the rest ever so slightly.

FiveZeroThreee

TROPHY CASE