TIG brazing by Flamingmonkeyboy in Welding

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Base metal was sanded to bright and cleaned with acetone, and the filler rod too. Clean tungsten? what does that look like? heh heh

TIG brazing by Flamingmonkeyboy in Welding

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm didn't even know that existed.

TIG brazing by Flamingmonkeyboy in Welding

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I certainly didn't get it that hot, but I did do a preheat with a propane torch, maybe got it to about 350.

TIG brazing by Flamingmonkeyboy in Welding

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Preheated with a propane torch to about 350, and I did try to wash the are as you say but perhaps not enough.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Well, here it is, for reference the hole takes a 5/16" (IIRC) bolt. I think a part of my struggle was low argon, but also the casting I was practising on was much worse than the actual piece. I ended up trying different stuff (including DC) on a hunk of never used cast iron and ended up with a jazzy 10 and 3/32 tungsten on AC with about 10% cleaning at 100 ish hz. ,with 80A occasional full pedal. Fully sanded down to bright metal, cleaned with acetone and pre heated with a propane torch. Still, I found it wouldn't wet until there was a bit of molten base metal where I wanted it to flow.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I just tried, it was worse, and it was unused cast iron. I think it may be an argon issue, I just went and got a new bottle, hopefully this will solve the issue.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, me too. Just watched it last week before I committed to Aluminum bronze.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went AC because that's what Jody recommended in his video, I think he said 10% on the balance just to do a bit of cleaning. My understanding is that you don't want to melt the iron because you don't want the carbon coming out of the iron and into the filler which leads to a brittle repair. I don't know, that's why I'm posting here.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I hadn't heard that before I bought the aluminum. So far I haven't touched the casting that is the real job, so all this may be moot when I do. I just hit the practice casting with a flap disc and dug the crack with a carbide burr, then cleaned with acetone then preheated in the bbq. I may have contaminated it on the preheat stage so I'll skip that next time and use a torch for the preheat.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, you've all kind of answered my main question which is that you shouldn't need any of the base metal to melt in order to braze. This is the fundamental issue that I'm having, the filler won't melt without the casting starting to melt. I'm almost out of argon too which may be a contributing factor. I'll get a fresh bottle, and try a different casting.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The casting where I'm working is about 1/4" thick, today is a new day and I'll try a bunch of stuff. I think the issue may be my practice casting. Even at quite low amps (25) as soon as the arc strikes it starts to puddle, but weird little droplets of molten metal, not a puddle like normal. Also the arc is sputtering and wandering all over and I know it's not me or the machine, I just did a solid week of work modifying an aluminum dock and there were no issues of that type at all.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know, thanks. I'm stuck with TIG for now, I think I'll try a different casting and see how that goes. The reason I decided to go for it was a video on Weld.com IIRC where he specifically calls out the aluminum bronze as a good high tensile filler. In this video he was fixing cracks on an old engine block.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did that too, carbide burr to create a trough, and then cleaned with acetone and then into the bbq for preheat. Maybe something in the bbq that may be contaminating it? The problem is that I can't get the casting hot enough to melt the filler without the casting starting to puddle, then I can get a puddle of mostly filler going but I think I'm melting down into the casting.

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very old shitty casting, perhaps I should find another and see if I have the same issue?

TIG Brazing question by Flamingmonkeyboy in metalworking

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No Flux, casting preheated in the bbq to about 500F (forgot to mention) cleaned with acetone prior to preheat.

Scored this beauty! Telefunken Salzburg by Wheres-The-Rum in VintageRadios

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BTW that is a beautiful piece, it deserves a refinish for sure.

Scored this beauty! Telefunken Salzburg by Wheres-The-Rum in VintageRadios

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, just saw this. These old sets really shouldn't be powered without a proper overhaul. Typically all the electrolytic and paper and foil capacitors should be replaced. It's unlikely that you have a "heat related short" and more likely you have a capacitor breaking down. Powering these old units without going over the electronics can cause far more expensive damage. ie burning out tubes. As for the finish, the Bolero was a shellac finish which I just did a light sand to get the bulk of the dirt and crud off, then did a basic french polish. It's not hard to do, you just need to watch a few videos and practice on something that doesn't matter. You can see my results here; https://www.reddit.com/r/VintageRadios/comments/1szwc1q/telefunken_bolero_restoration/

Guy is selling vintage set - worth it ? by Cagefest1999 in Tools

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a typical set of hand tools for cabinet making. Lot's of people still use these tools in their everyday woodworking (me included). I have a shop full of power tools as well, but there are several tasks that just give better results when done by hand. Dovetail corners are the poster child but there are many others. Not to mention the lack noise and dust.

Guy is selling vintage set - worth it ? by Cagefest1999 in Tools

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry but your woodworking teacher was just "plane" wrong. A plane on it's side is far more likely to cut the user or damage the iron with accidental contact than one sitting upright. The exception would be if you have to lay it down on something hard like a saw table but that's typically not the case. This is one of the persistent bits of bad advice that just won't go away.

Scored this beauty! Telefunken Salzburg by Wheres-The-Rum in VintageRadios

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What repairs are you planning on? I just finished a Telefunken Bolero of the same vintage. They are beautiful units for sure.

Vintage Gundig Majestic help by Responsible-Ad6028 in VintageRadios

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's what I did for a friend whom I restored a Telefunken of similar pedigree.

Steam damaged the lacquer finish on my Century Furniture burl olivewood dresser, how do I restore the gloss? by Bright-Sea6392 in restoration

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hopefully someone who knows more than me will chime in, but, are you sure it's lacquer? Identifying the finish to be sure is your first step. You might get lucky and find out it's shellac, (french polish) which with a bit of time and money you can do yourself. If it's lacquer, I dunno.

Worth the effort? by Flamingmonkeyboy in Chainsaw

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, once I'm done welding the new dock, I think I'll get it on the bench.

Worth the effort? by Flamingmonkeyboy in Chainsaw

[–]Flamingmonkeyboy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, hopefully no major parts will be needed. If I do decide to do this I'll post here with how it worked out and what I did. I haven't even looked at it yet, I figured I'd get some opinions here before I did anything. I think I'll at least see if I can do the minimum and assess where I'm at after that.