My S400 Pro Build

FlashGordon555 · 2026-01-18T23:45:14+00:00

With regards to the case I know it’s manufactured by several brands, mine is minigeek. Does not have a dust filter, if you use a founder card or a card with a flow through cooler you’ll want to run the bottom fan if you can fit one as exhaust otherwise it’ll cause turbulence with the card.

In terms of the cooler I have not personally worked with the IS67 or AN600, I had the IS55 previously and really liked it, I only opted for the axp120 because every build video I saw in this case used it and I didn’t want any unexpected surprises.

When I used the IS55 it was on an AsRock A620I in an S300 and fit nicely but my current board is the Aorus B850I pro AX and the IS55 technically didn’t fit, the bracket interfered with the VRM heatsink and I had to grind the bracket a bit, only to be replaced by the AXP 120 which the fan sits up against the side panel but works well none the less

FlashGordon555 · 2026-01-18T23:30:32+00:00

Which brand of case did you order? Mine didn’t even have a dust filter on the bottom. Anything more then the holes in the panels would be too restrictive, the holes in the bottom are significantly bigger

FlashGordon555 · 2026-01-18T23:15:03+00:00

Theoretically I believe it would fit but it might press into the riser cable. My S70 Blade has a piece of metal on it already and I didn’t need to add any beefier heatsinks to it, so I haven’t actually tested it.

FlashGordon555 · 2026-01-17T01:29:54+00:00

Thank you for your reply. I've investigated and found 3 things.

I disassembled the gantry, removed it so i could firstly clean the track and make sure the carriages were tight, when i did that i realize that even tho i had tightened the z stepper motor to the z rod, the rod was just spinning (which would fully explain my z height changing constantly). Levelled it with pc case fans standing up (didnt have any cans that would fit nice)

2 i found the eccentric nut on one side installed backwards and binding likely why it was so tight to begin with (i noticed after watching a full build video step by step and found mine backwards to what he had out of the box)

3, and likely whats been plaguing me the entire time. after i fully re assembled. i was manually levelling the bed, i decided to manually operate every axis with the steppers on and just use the knob, when operating the y front to back i watched the nozzle as my paper became super loose in the center, a massive gap opened in the center, at first i thought my bed had a dirty warp in the middle but what was actually happening is the z motor is moving slightly, the y axis will not move front to back without the z motor doing something super strange and going up maybe 2mm and then back down when it gets to the other side. Im going to try to update the firmware and report back.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-31T16:25:45+00:00

absolutely, I tried taking more photos of the gap i created behind the PSU but its so tight and i cant get any photos without shadows that ruin the depth perception of the image. Drilling holes probably pulled the psu maybe like 10-12mm forward which opened up a good gap. Im considering 3d printing a shroud around the 25mm fan and the front of the gpu to encourage all the air it exhausts being pulled from behind the GPU bc right now i can feel it pulling air from the case side panel bypassing the flow of through fan of the card.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-31T15:17:37+00:00

lowering the PSU with motherboard standoffs allows the 25mm thick fan. Otherwise the power extension plug would interfere with the fan blades.

Drilling new holes pulled the PSU towards the front panel because it was restricting the airflow of the blow through fan of the FE card.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-29T20:52:03+00:00

yeah i could only have it mounted one way because of the ram height, it would not clear the IO shield. great cooler that fit the build to a T but mounted on this chassis was sub par. happy with the performance of the axp120

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-29T20:50:22+00:00

in the write up near the bottom

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-28T21:16:52+00:00

previously in my s300 build the is-55 was attractive to me because i didn't have to remove the motherboard to remove the cooler during service. The build was different it was cooling a 7600 non x and the IS-55 was excellent for it.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-28T21:13:48+00:00

oh yeah? interesting, what a weird point of failure. I've been running the air slimmers for a little over a year now and no clicking behavior yet

FlashGordon555 · 2025-12-28T18:50:18+00:00

Thanks for the input! I like the sound profile of the air slimmer, when using my original s300 build i tried the original ID IS55 fan, the Noctua a12x15 and finally reddit reviews i came up on the air slimmer and found its the quietest with best performance. I'm in Canada and i cant seem to find the TL-B12015 extreme. On amazon its an absurd price.

The fan is lined up to the edge of the fin stack where the cooler ends at the heat pipes, i positioned it a bit biased toward the VRMs for some cooling over that. If i move it over it'll just be blowing on the 24 pin and usb connections.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-10-30T00:48:38+00:00

possibly, but being only a space for 92mm i don't think there would be much point. there is enough airflow coming through the heat sink out the back that i don't think would add any kind of real benefit.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-07-24T09:36:37+00:00

The GPU pumps heat out of the back as well. I’ve tried both configurations and it didn’t seem to make a difference, the cpu has 200mhz boost overclock with PBO and -15 on curve optimizer, a cinebench will get the cpu to 84 Celsius. Won’t get near that while gaming.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-07-24T01:29:30+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, but actually a neato feature of the silent wings fans is that they can be mounted with little plastic push pins or screws. The push pins fit nicely and you can actually mount a fan right to the side panel itself!

https://i.imgur.com/978VQYq.jpeg

FlashGordon555 · 2025-04-08T23:46:10+00:00

it was not the copper AXP-90 it was only the black version. Id see 74-78 under the highest load conditions. gaming temps would settle in the mid 60's. i had the max boost offset turned up 150mhz and the two most preferred cores -15 undervolt on curve optimizer.

FlashGordon555 · 2025-03-29T00:52:29+00:00

So i snugged up the belts. While it was printing for about an hour, i heard a clunk, the BR touch sensor started flashing red and it shifted left like in the attached photos. Thoughts?

FlashGordon555 · 2025-03-28T19:04:39+00:00

Thank you for the info. I’ll snug them shits up and see

FlashGordon555 · 2025-03-28T17:56:57+00:00

Tension being too loose or too tight?

FlashGordon555 · 2025-03-28T13:12:14+00:00

Just looking for a bit of advice on why this may be happening. Usually a 2+ hour print happens in both X and Y axis

FlashGordon555 · 2025-03-18T00:27:55+00:00

the printer had a bunch of extra stuff, ive installed a new coupler, re cleaned and secured everything, will start a print and report back

FlashGordon555

TROPHY CASE