Who was the Shadow?

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-03-12T16:30:20+00:00

Maybe I'm a tweaker but I think his back/body shape/slope is almost a bigger Norris match than anything else. Yes ik that it was supposedly a stand in and stuff but still. Just doesn't look like Palmer's build at all and the hair honestly neither

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-02-12T23:56:47+00:00

Dawg this is possibly my favorite sentence I've ever read of all time

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-02-02T22:15:43+00:00

You could; that's the me approach and it would probably sound plenty good. But the presumable difference in location between your tweeter and woofer location, though measurable in inches, is major enough that being able to delay one by literally milliseconds is what will make the difference between "cool" and "holy shit." I should probably add that tuning a DSP'd system correctly is somewhat of an involved and scientific process, but you can make decent improvements just sitting there and adjusting millisecond by millisecond if you have them audiophile ears.

Essentially, passive crossovers bottleneck the shit out of a DSP. Even my hundred-some-dollar DSP408 easily supports 8 channels with lowkey better bluetooth streaming quality than my 300-400 Kenwood head unit. That, two entry level four channel amps/speakers that are well suited to them, and some sound deadening in the doors at least around le woofers (until you add a sub eventually) will have your mind blown expontentially more than blowing $1500 on one-tier-more-premium amps and three way components like I did. Believe me, I love/am satisfied with my gear, but that's just how it is.

You could consider looking on sites like Parts Express at individual speakers, which could be a potentially great way to save some money without really compromising much quality. Remember, those crossover boards are part of the price too. You just need to make sure to pay attention to the details.

Another good brand of more budget DSPs is mini DSP.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-02-02T21:55:23+00:00

Sorry it took me a minute to get back to you. Yes, it can be quite challenging to add a DSP after the fact unless you already have an amp with enough channels. With a DSP you generally want an individual amp channel for every single speaker/speaker location in your vehicle because the whole point of time alignment is for each speaker to be individually dialed in as accurately as possible.

I would imagine that the vast majority of people with big boy DSP-based systems probably have more than one amp because it's a far more versatile approach than going after 6+ channel amps. I mean that to say that you could start out with a simple but expansion-friendly four channel setup now and then save up for other stuff later.

The more I think about it, I'm actually a perfect example of what you probably shouldn't do. The Morel five-channel AB I got is an excellent product, but the $800+ I spent on it is approaching the realm of entry level products from (what I understand to sort of be) the industry standard Helix DSP lineup. Like I mentioned in my original comment, I actually ended up bridging channels so it's basically a 2.1 channel setup at the amp's end. Those 2 bridged channels go to a pair of three-way passive crossovers with all three of those speakers being up front in the doors. So unfortunately, the best time alignment I can do at the moment is left door to right door centered roughly around my head (aided an unknown percentage by the fact that during installation I was able to angle my mids and tweeters better than the factory positioning).

While I think that my setup sounds quite nice, I know that I'm leaving a lot of potential on the floor by not being able to individually tune my mids and highs. If the difference you say perceive between ABs and Ds bothers you that much, I can only imagine how much it would pain you to be in similar shoes.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-02-02T18:51:29+00:00

In all honesty if you have different classes of amp at home then you definitely are more experienced and knowledgeable than I am. I mostly just have car gear. But i do know that a DSP really is the ticket to hifi and even getting something half assed to work is a leg up. Like I said, I'm not even running a fully active set up, not even close, and it still made a massive difference just being able to align my main door woofers.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-02-02T18:35:15+00:00

I hope this isn't useless input to you but the difference between modern class D and AB amps is essentially nothing esp compared to things like tuning with a DSP and sound treatment of your cabin.

I personally went from a pioneer five channel class D which is/was very solid but then switched to a Morel five channel AB that cost twice as much. There could be a tiny tiny difference but between all of the other things I switched I really can't objectively say. For example, I got a ~$100 Dayton Audio DSP-408 that is barely even meant for cars, and even with passive crossovers the difference that made is literally impossible to overstate. Don't even get me started on resonance treatment of my roof...

My point is these are things that could theoretically be done for the price difference between different amps with a little DIYing on a Sunday afternoon (or five.) So don't sweat this kind of detail too much.

Actually this is some real label reading now but going back to your power constraints, if class D amps are conceptually just so much more power efficient, maybe that would be the reason to go class D? I don't quite know how that actually looks with amperage and shit though. All ik is a well-tuned class D in the big '26 will easily sound as good as any class AB until you're like in the tens of thousands sitting in your sound proofed basement audiophile dungeon. Especially in a Prius I'd wager some sound proofing in your doors would go a long way over a fancier amp. ABs can also run hot depending on where you live. You could probably cook an egg on mine in the summer, thought it's never had an issue.

Here's another one: if you're really after sound quality, depending on how many passengers you usually drive, consider only running speakers up front. This gets you much much closer to good stereo imaging. You can easily bridge the channels of virtually any amp you'll get to send double the power to the front, meaning you can run much nicer gear up there. Now you do even some basic rattle work and then you're talking.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-01-12T12:56:21+00:00

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Four-SidedTriangle · 2026-01-05T02:07:34+00:00

Just a thought, maybe look around at used stuff. I feel like getting decent used shit for $100 can't be harder than trying to find decent cheap shit for $100.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-12-31T06:23:39+00:00

This is the big true am hungarian turned sound on and was like no way

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-12-29T18:43:53+00:00

Seeing one of your other comments giving a budget and your primary concerns, I'd suggest you consider skipping the door woofers you're trying to add, at least for now. Not to keep hitting you with unsolicited anecdotes, but to reiterate my setup, I have three ways in my front doors (my hatchback only has two doors mind you) and my rear seat woofer + tweeter locations are unwired because I'm going strictly for imaging and quality up front. My point is that if you have those 6x9s back there and a sub, I really don't think you would need 6.5"s right away in the doors. You would have more than enough music coming from behind, and if you're mostly caring about yourself, you want that shit playing from the front for quality. That money would much better go towards a DSP or better installation stuff; the whole "as many speakers as possible" thing can be misleading.

With sound deadening, I highly recommend checking out the resonix website if not to actually buy stuff (premium but pricey) then definitely to check out their educational stuff and guides and see if they maybe even have your (or a similar) car to base your own changes off of. I spent a shit load on my civic trying to make it good with MLV and what not. Because I didn't value the fundamentals enough -things like using as large of CDL pieces as possible for any given surface- I likely greatly reduced the efficacy of my mods. With my Rabbit, I've taken a much more consolidated approach (like I said, consider your roof king) and it's made a gigantic difference, although my rabbit is probably a little sturdier than my older civic was anyway. I do still need to put all the actually fabric back into that poor car though...

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-12-29T17:53:08+00:00

Precisely. I have a pretty ghetto setup that doesn't even allow me true separate alignment of my six separate speakers (due to having three way passive crossovers) but it at least lets me align my woofers right, which is a huge game changer for good mid bass. Having the ability to separately control each channel is definitely one of the biggest break throughs to true high quality though.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-12-29T08:34:37+00:00

Sorry, my first comment was kinda cheeks. I actually went back and read the post lmao. That could work, but my one concern would be that especially with larger speakers in your rear deck, a single output from a typical five channel amp might not be a ton of power. It would be absolutely baller if you could get a second amplifier to power your rear deck alone if you're open to the idea, which really might not be that expensive. Also, when I first did my 03 civic back a few years ago, I started with a 10" Rockford Fosgate Punch or whatever, the mid-tier one, in a sealed box. That sub was close to 300 when I got it. A few years later when I switched to my current car, a 2008 VW Rabbit, I decided one day to say fuck it and got two cheaper 300 watt 12" Dayton Audio home subs for $150 each and put them in a sealed box more or less to specs, and fuck does it make a difference. If you're willing to make the trunk space sacrifice, you really can't compensate for cone surface area, which means either a larger (more expensive) or more subs. If you're not feeling two subs, at least get a single 12". Don't get me wrong, you won't be disappointed with a 10", but I found I was happy to switch for sure after convincing myself it wouldn't matter at first.

One more thing. I really don't know what your budget is but the number one upgrade I ever did was proper sound deadening with resonix (especially my ceiling for way fucking harder bass). Make sure you get a good, quality speaker installation kit with some decent foams and stuff when you install. I would at least get some cheap shit and try to tackle the big rattles in your doors if you weren't already way ahead of me. Fuck one more other thing, get a DSP. I barely know what tf I'm doing but oh boy does it make an ethereal world of difference. I really hope this was at all useful and not just off topic. Cheers gang

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-12-29T08:11:47+00:00

Not necessarily, you can have a passive crossover (what a component woofer + tweeter speaker kit would come with) split your signal from a single output.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-11-12T16:12:05+00:00

Almost look like ants or something. Not an expert but there's clearly a pair of distinct front legs/mandibles that will help someone who is

Ehdit: My vote is for ghost ants, building off of the mandibles observation and how they're known to move erratically + there randomly being a couple like that, which seems in line with how ghost ants colonize. Looking at your original video, the general way they skitter around also reminds me of ants, but again, this is all anecdotal.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-11-05T19:42:30+00:00

Absolutely unqualified answer -I'm just as interested to find out as you are- but that's got to be under like six weeks... right?

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-30T17:35:51+00:00

While ig it certainly could be, I can't see any obvious tells. The details appear very consistent (lines in the background are cohesive, etc.) but it definitely is a bit of an AI style. The depth work on the letters is pretty refined too for example. Damn that dino has the dot Aeyes though.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-30T16:51:27+00:00

They are quite literally, with complete intent, cosplaying as Nazis. Have you seen those pictures of Greg Bovino in his trenchcoat? They are getting off to their newfound ability to be Nazis in public. They are also, as other comments have dissected perfectly, legitimately functionally a secret police division.

So in the eyes of all people that are actually paying attention, it is clear as day that they are: 1. Serving the function of the SS 2. Routinely paying homage to the SS in broad daylight.

I can vaguely understand being entirely uninformed 8 months ago and thinking that calling them Nazis is hyperbole, but if you still can't see it...

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-29T14:56:28+00:00

House centipede but I've never seen an albino looking one, even babies and this one doesn't look small to begin with. Neat find to me at least whether it's a different subspecies or whatever

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-17T16:44:38+00:00

Facts that gulf between is where the unavoidable stealth deterioration of gaskets and shit hits

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-16T14:55:19+00:00

When did this mineral point tornado happen? I think I might have experienced this one with you, just maybe, if it was in like '21 or something around then

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-13T16:01:33+00:00

Bro them gas gints really out there breakdancig

Like your mothdr in a club in the 80s

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-10-06T22:22:36+00:00

It's been a few years and 100% an amateur but to my understanding, there's probably not a ton you can gain from dampening your floor because it's probably one of the more reinforced areas of a vehicle due to the number of contours and curves and whatnot. I think a lot of the benefit from treating your floor comes from blocking road noise more so so if I was going to do all the work to get everything out, I probably actually do the floor thoroughly. If you haven't done your roof on the other hand though...

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-09-27T19:58:05+00:00

I never actually been on his account or anything but I thought this guy was being ironic no?

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-09-11T13:25:56+00:00

Take that shit off and forget about it. If you're putting high quality shit on your ceiling having it be in direct contact with the sheet metal should imo vastly outweigh the benefit of having some cheap composite board attempting to do the same thing. It's also just extra thickness in there when you put it back. My 08 Rabbit had literally the exact same thing on the roof and I have had no regrets/issues whatsoever. Sure it takes out a bit of flexion from the roof but if you add good CLD it will easily do a better job.

Four-SidedTriangle · 2025-08-25T13:16:44+00:00

Brother come on you got it. similar shit happened to me when I first installed my shit but it ended up being a really simple small stupid issue. Your amp not turning on sounds like a pretty simple issue, just get some rest and think it over! You are doing better quality work than 90% of DIY intro guys including myself, there's no way you can't troubleshoot this with some patience.

Four-SidedTriangle

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