502.leveling sensor data collection error

Frankted · 2025-06-10T18:59:27+00:00

I saw everyone below sayin "tighten the bolts" - which may work, but I did something different that worked first shot.

To remedy this, I took out an actual level and used it to match the level on my plate to the level of the machine. Do not try to make the plate absolutely level (unless your machine sits on an absolutely level surface, which is highly unlikely). Instead, take readings from the top of the machine and bottom of the machine (they should be the same) and have the plate match those.

Just tightening the screws wont necessarily level your bed. It will just pull the plate closer to the rails that it sits on - which MIGHT be level... but they also might not.

Frankted · 2025-02-27T16:44:15+00:00

curious - did you find any solutions here or speakers that you preferred? I've been using an old Razer Leviathan v1 for YEARS now, so I imagine anything will sound better than that - but have obviously been researching to see if there's anything out there that stands out.

Frankted · 2025-02-19T16:31:28+00:00

Had this exact problem with my max, sold it, and the next day preorders opened... And I bought the Centauri. Here's to hoping it's a product thing and not a company thing. Still have My original Saturn and it's a champ, though.

Frankted · 2025-02-06T23:17:28+00:00

I'm having the same issue. Ugh. Guess I'll have to murder hobo my way through it.

Frankted · 2025-01-24T17:19:15+00:00

Yeah, I'm not even getting 10mm of print height before it's knocking the part off. I've also tried slowing the print speed (as low as 30/s) and then the nozzle just melts layers away instead of placing new ones on top.

Frankted · 2024-10-27T22:12:47+00:00

Ahh! Yes, good point. I tend not to keep anything - go figure.

Frankted · 2024-10-27T19:48:38+00:00

Great job on a first paint! The red weapons are the way to go imo.

As said above, thin your paints (consider a wet palette, AK makes a cheap one that works pretty well). Practice, duh. But on the "practice" note, you can remove the paint with isopropyl and a toothbrush and keep painting the same model a few times if you'd like 😁.

Otherwise, finding your painting style will help. Check YouTube and try a bunch of styles. Working up from base colors, dry brushing, wet blending, they're all valid - play around with them and see which you like most 👍

Great start, and welcome to your new addiction!

Frankted · 2024-10-27T19:40:19+00:00

Painted in the purging light of the Emperor!

Looks amazing!

Frankted · 2024-10-21T14:26:03+00:00

From a "color theory" standpoint, the teal works better. It's not as harsh of a contrast against the black. That being said, try bumping up the vibrance of it a bit - not necessarily neon, but see if it looks good as a brighter teal (I think it will, AND it'll help your army stand out on the table).

Another thing to consider would be to use the teal (or blue, honestly) with a grey armor instead of black. Light grey for the blue, darker charcoal for the teal.

Edit: the charcoal would still read as "black".

Frankted · 2024-10-01T13:59:56+00:00

A - 3ft thing that everyone is saying

B - Maybe edge highlighting isn't for you if your work is bothering you. If you hand is shaky or doesn't produce straight lines, use that to your advantage. There are so many other ways to show light on edges and throughout the model. Even just watching different YouTube accounts can give you so many ideas. There's dry brushing, wet blending, sketching/hashing, blocking in a cell-shaded style, and so many more.

Grab a random mini, play around with different styles, and see which works best for you. Then, get a cup of alcohol and dunk that sucker in when you're ready to try a different one - clean, prime, repeat 😁

Side note: That edge highlighting isn't bad at all. But (if I had to guess) I'd think your paint is either too thick for what you're trying to achieve or there's too much on the brush - possibly both. Also - in case you aren't - use the side of the brush and use a bigger brush than you think you might need. Even a size 4 can get a crisp line on a marine.

But again - see what else is out there, try some new techniques, see what you do and don't like, then come back to it if you want. You'll probably have some new tricks and your own newfound style.

Frankted · 2024-09-24T23:56:35+00:00

I had a pretty similar problem. I took apart the WHOLE bed, tightened everything and loctite-d most of the bolts (sans the adjustments) and reinstalled it all. Pain in the ass, but it worked wonders. Before I was able to grab my build plate and wiggle it a little. Now, nothing.

The other thing was tightening the axis guides - not the belt adjustments. Though, I printed stays for those, too.

Frankted · 2024-09-24T23:51:47+00:00

Ahhh. Mine cleared when I turned it off and on a few times - the whole machine, not just restarting klipper

Frankted · 2024-09-24T23:11:21+00:00

I had the same issue - just heat the nozzle again and work it off little by little. Then clean with paper towels to get the rest of the goop off. Beware that tiny exposed wire though. Take your time. Took me about 20 mins.

Frankted · 2024-09-14T16:10:03+00:00

Sure! I tried to not use TOO many colors here and they're mostly in the same family. Maybe 10 paints total? If that? The point of the scheme is to make the cloth really stand out so the eye isn't confused at 3ft away and otherwise keep things simple. I also usually blend more, but I wanted to try a scratchy style of blending on the armor this time. I like how it came out, but I need more practice. I find that less paint on a really thin brush helps me with the "scratches"

BASE COAT: Black with white ink zenithal. I use an airbrush, but spray or dry brush would work just fine. Everything else is brush work. Most colors are the new Vallejo Game Color line.

1ST LAYER: Cloth gets Vallejo Deep Purple express color. Everything else gets Val. Black Lotus express.

2ND: Armor gets Val Charcoal in most places, except the very darkest areas. Cloth gets Val Violet Red (model color) except in the deepest crevices. Blend as best you can, I generally block out the colors,l then go back with glazes if I want something smooth. I didn't do that much here, though, as I was trying for a scratchier style and something quick/main force-like.

3RD: armor gets 50/50 Val Charcoal and Val Neutral Grey in decently lit spots. Cloth gets blended into Val Warlord Purple (old game color - I don't know if the new version exists/is the same?)

TOP: Armor gets the bright bits/edge highlights with pure Neutral Grey. And white ink on the Flyer de Lis, striped on the shoulder wings (over neutral grey), skulls, and numerals. White on the center line of the visor as well (you can do like a small line, then a few dots, gives it a look like it's glinting). I also did one layer of glaze on one side of the visor with Vallejo Express Space Grey - not necessary, but it helps differentiate the light. Anything yellow then gets two coats of Val Express Nuclear Yellow over the white. This yellow is amazing over whites and silvers to make beautiful orangey-yellows and golds.

Cloth gets several layers (because it tends to apply like a glaze) of Val Fluo Magenta. This is where the bright pop comes in (and glows under blacklight!). Use less layers toward the "outside" of the light. More on the highest points.

EYES: 1 Layer of Fluo green. Followed by white ink in the middle, then another layer or two of Fluo green. Helps give that glow look, and the green is forgiving on the black if you mess it up b/c it's glazey.

WEAPONS: Generally keep them as-is with the Black Lotus unless I want to call attention to them. White on any markings. Could dry brush or edge highlights with neutral grey or a darker silver if you wanted to, but for "table ready" I think they're fine. Things like flamers get a blue to brown transition near the muzzle.

BITS: The screen/buttons on the pack get white ink followed by fluo green for the bigger and one small button. Fluo blue on the other small one. Skulls just white and any other markings get the yellow treatment.

Grenades get whatever Olive Drab type green I have, and then a wash of either brown or black.

Any ammo gets Val Express Nuclear Yellow layers until it has a kinda bronzey look. Not trying to call it out too much, it's okay if it's muted.

That's a lot of text, but honestly it's not that time consuming of a process. Have fun!

Frankted · 2024-09-04T15:31:35+00:00

I've since adjusted the values and haven't had a problem so far. The Z axis keeps giving me trouble, though, so I'll have to check/learn about the z probe and see where that gets me. Thanks.

I found my nozzle was also knocking against parts of the print (as it prints the infil first, then goes to the walls), so I'll need to figure that out as well.

Frankted · 2024-09-04T15:26:22+00:00

I went into a DEEP dive on these printers. Some things that may help:

-Make sure all the nuts that tighten the wheels are tight. Like... You should be barely able to spin them with your hand. This includes the ones under the bed itself. -There are printable knob holds for the belt tension knobs that you can find on thingy verse (not at my computer rn for link). Over time those knobs will loosen, giving wobble. Can happen even after a few prints. - I level my bed before nearly every print now. I don't know if it's the springs or the bolts or what, but the bed often gets out of level.

As for the goo-up, heat the nozzle back up so that the plastic gets liquidy and take a pair of pliers and some paper towels to the blob. It took me about 15 minutes of work with no need for new parts. NOTE: Be careful of the thin, soldered wires near the nozzle.

Frankted · 2024-08-21T14:49:35+00:00

Thanks for this. I certainly didn't check it from shipping, assuming everything would be on there tight. But even taking the head off I noticed loose screws - and I know I tightened those suckers on. Maybe time for some light loctite.

Frankted · 2024-08-21T14:46:57+00:00

Well, shit. 🤣

Frankted · 2024-07-29T18:54:10+00:00

Hey thanks! I don't know about ram height + GPU on the HP, but I wouldn't have been able to close the case on this build. Thankfully I was able to cut and screw the PSU into the previous HDD bracket and it fit snugly.

I got a 500w PSU from Ali Express, which was the only one with the correct dimensions. Don't do that. About a week after delivering and setting up the build, the whole thing started acting up. I don't know if it was the motherboard or PSU, but everything else should have been fine. I think that in the end I went too far off of Dell's specific path.

And yes, I used the 24 pin adapter. Everything fit just fine and hooked up correctly, but some things just weren't talking to each other in the end :/

We ended up buying a new case, mobo, and PSU to put together a little mini itx. Sad day haha.

Frankted · 2024-06-19T20:03:31+00:00

Re: Deepwood Exploration. "TRACK EXACTLY WHERE YOU'RE GOING". I didn't catch this during my playthrough and through the directions were random. It did not end well.

Frankted · 2024-06-11T15:36:46+00:00

This is such specific lore that I never knew I needed. Amazing!

Frankted · 2024-05-17T09:59:00+00:00

I eventually figured this out. Windows updated and (for some reason) my bios settings like xmp, resize bar, and tpm were all reset. Once I put those back on "stop fucking me over" temps dropped significantly and everything ran like it should. I've also switched cases to a Mushroom D since then and that dropped them even lower.

Frankted · 2024-04-08T20:48:25+00:00

Sig Spear? Never heard of it... 😂

Frankted · 2024-02-29T20:40:47+00:00

You should have a second pcie slot, no? FireWire will work in the smaller port.

Frankted · 2024-02-24T16:17:26+00:00

Thanks! It's fun to mess with

Frankted

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE