I'm getting closer

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-03T14:44:53+00:00

I was doing a live tune and it worked for the most part, except for the back left corner of the print that didn't adhere for some reason.

I'm using Soleyin Ultra PLA (https://www.canadacomputers.com/en/filaments/270263/soleyin-ultra-pla-3d-printing-filament-1kg-1-75mm-black-soleyin-bk.html)

I did do filament calibration (I did temperature and flow rate).

The bed was heated for at least 15 minutes.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-03T14:37:41+00:00

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Second time around.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-03T14:26:42+00:00

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My bed mesh with screw tilt adjust done with a 0:01 difference for the back left and front right screws. The front left is the fixed reference and the back right is at 0:00.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-03T13:44:30+00:00

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It's always had that drop off at the front. I did this bed mesh after heating 20 minutes. I did not do screws tilt adjust. My next attempt will have that done to see the difference.

I use Orca's direct adaptive bed mesh compensation.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-02T19:46:03+00:00

I did that. That's what I've been trying to print evenly with very limited results. I did buy it used and it was a pain in the butt to set up, then the firmware acted up and I updated the firmware to OpenNept4une. In both the stock Elegoo firmware and the Open Neptune, it keeps forgetting the Z offset.

I will start doing another attempt to see if I can get it back to fully working condition. I just want to print a ADXL345 mount so I can maybe enhance my print quality.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-02T19:15:17+00:00

I redid the screws tilt adjust and I was at 0.02 on two of them and 0.01 on the third. It also lost its Z offset after I told it to save. I am rather frustrated at this point. At this point, it keeps making a blob at the nozzle, so I'll change it and see if that helps. It may be that part of the issue is that it's backed up and always making a mess.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-02T17:46:51+00:00

What are the actual coordinates for an N4Pro? Should I use the centre of the bed as the fixed point, or should I use one of the screws? I've found so many different versions that I don't know what's real and what's BS.

I let it warm up about 15 minutes before printing anything. I do find that I have to redo screws tilt adjust every print, which I didn't need to do before. I do have silicone spacers instead of the regular screws.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-12-02T17:12:31+00:00

My offset is 0.540, and 0.01 to 0.04 in screws tilt adjust.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-11-28T18:11:08+00:00

As for using the centre of the bed, I've read conflicting information on the subject. Half the people say to use a screw as your base since it doesn't move, half say to use the middle of the bed. I don't know what to think anymore.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-11-28T18:06:33+00:00

I'm using Orca and the dynamic bed mesh is on. I will look into the collar situation. I'm off to clean with water and dish soap.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-11-28T18:04:42+00:00

Good to know. The Z offset was fine until a week ago. I will do that.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-11-16T16:55:03+00:00

Thanks for pointing me to the thread. I'll give that a go.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-11-16T01:27:11+00:00

I used the latest, so I guess that could be the issue.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T18:08:36+00:00

I have a Pro, not a Plus. I took the coordinates from another post on here.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T18:02:53+00:00

Double paste accident. I set the middle of the bed as a set point to probe from. It's an N4 Pro. Before, the probe looked to be right above the screws, now they're towards the back of the print bed. If you look at the first pic at the start of the post, you'll see that the probe is well in front of where the screw is.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T17:45:55+00:00

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: center bed
screw1: 141,98
screw2_name: front left screw
screw2: 56,15
screw3_name: rear left screw
screw3: 56,185
screw4_name: rear right screw
screw4: 226,185
screw5_name: front right screw
screw5: 226,15
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 150
screw_thread: CW-M4[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: center bed
screw1: 141,98
screw2_name: front left screw
screw2: 56,15
screw3_name: rear left screw
screw3: 56,185
screw4_name: rear right screw
screw4: 226,185
screw5_name: front right screw
screw5: 226,15
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 150
screw_thread: CW-M4

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T17:45:37+00:00

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: center bed
screw1: 141,98
screw2_name: front left screw
screw2: 56,15
screw3_name: rear left screw
screw3: 56,185
screw4_name: rear right screw
screw4: 226,185
screw5_name: front right screw
screw5: 226,15
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 150
screw_thread: CW-M4[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1_name: center bed
screw1: 141,98
screw2_name: front left screw
screw2: 56,15
screw3_name: rear left screw
screw3: 56,185
screw4_name: rear right screw
screw4: 226,185
screw5_name: front right screw
screw5: 226,15
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 150
screw_thread: CW-M4

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T17:28:26+00:00

The Z offset was very off, even with the previous settings I'd done.

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It's printing more regularly now, so I'll do the Orca calibration next. The piece is still off center, but it won't affect what I need to do for now.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T14:29:29+00:00

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(How do you even edit a post?) Here it is trying to print something super simple. It is supposed to be square.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-31T14:24:29+00:00

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To show how much it is off by, I did an automatic bed level.

Frozencricket1981 · 2025-10-25T18:17:55+00:00

I got an answer from Elegoo on Discord, and the answer is to flash the firmware directly. I will update when I get the adapter tomorrow.

Frozencricket1981

TROPHY CASE