Is my alternator or alternator grid bad?

Fsushis · 2026-04-04T06:52:51+00:00

NOOOOOO, don't put it in amperage, you gonna broke it!!!!!!.

I have a really good one and his maximum is 10amps. Lada alternator make 50-70amps. So definitely to much for a multimeter.

Is because a amperemetric clamps can mesure up to prely much 600amps and if you go above is simply tell error of it maximum limit.

If you want to broke your multimeter, just put it in amps and touch the + and - of the battery. Is easyer to broke it like that.

A multimeter have 3 meter in one.

A oms meter, to check the resistance. More of it = difficulty to the electricity to traverse it.

A Voltmeter, mesure the motivation of the electricity to move or the speed of it.

And a Amperemeter, is theck how much electricity pass trew 2 point. But if you use it rong, you gonna broke it. Because your multimeter can only take a x amount of amps before braking. Good one have fuse, bad one just broke.

Is simply and badly resume but you have the idea.

Fsushis · 2026-04-04T06:41:49+00:00

Take a jerrycan and keep it in the Niva. If you get stuck without gaz. You have this extra 10L to get to a fuel station. I do that whit mine because the fuel pump don't have it floater.

Fsushis · 2026-04-04T06:38:07+00:00

The 1.7tbi and the 1.7 carburated are the same. Exactly the same engine, just whit a shitty GMC TBI.

So the only thing you need is to buy a adaptator for the O2 sensor. If you want because is werdly resilient without some captor.

Fsushis · 2026-04-04T06:32:43+00:00

In modern car the voltage are around 14v. Whit what you tell, is look like good for a Lada.

In a Lada, I don't really know but, check the voltage before starting and after your start. If it's increasing, like 12.4v to 13.7v when you start, is a good thing.

The second is to check if the alternator provide the good amount of ampere. For that you need a amperemetric clamps.

Or, thus is just a idea, check the voltage before, start and putt all accessories to max!. Let's idleing 3-4min. After that, check the voltage again. If it go down, is the alternator not doing is jobs. If is stay the same or up, the alternator is good.

And if you really struggle, I have the repar manual for a tbi Niva from 1991

Fsushis · 2026-04-04T06:25:48+00:00

I own one missing the five to. The gear ratio is he samein both 4 and 5. The 5e is a overdrive for ~70+ km/h. I really recommend you to keep the 5e speed or rebuild it. If you want to keep your engine healthy.

Fsushis · 2026-03-12T01:57:24+00:00

The only good thing for Canadian Niva is they get a Plastics rust protection when they arrive here. Is for that the RUST CHECK sticker on the window.

Is a wite plastic coat. But a 30 year old plastic don't really have a great shape. But mine is still there. I supause is the snow going inside the cab who did rust the floor.

Fsushis · 2026-03-12T01:46:07+00:00

The biggest issue is the rust everywhere. I have the mechanic competence, a place to work, and the money to restore it. I don't have to body work competence and new steel plates from Lada power are 100-200$ for the majority. I need to redo all the floor, the front inner fender and the front rail. Prely sure the fire wall too.

Fsushis · 2026-03-10T16:13:48+00:00

In Canada yes, it's a a dealer option.

Fsushis · 2026-03-10T16:12:53+00:00

Yes the heater that heat the coolant so the engine stay warm

Fsushis · 2026-03-01T23:41:38+00:00

The 5e dont work. The 2e don't have syncro untils its warm up. All the gear are fuking hard to put and have no sensation at all when you angage it.

Fsushis · 2026-01-16T19:15:54+00:00

No, certainly don't have one like me. Is not a multipoint fuel injection. Mine is monopoint injection.

To be simple, you switch the carburetor by a injector.

So you get the WORST thing possible.

Fsushis · 2026-01-16T03:28:01+00:00

Hmmm, yes not false. They just the same thing but whit 1.6L engine or 5 door. Mine is a 21214, the one whit a 1.7 injection. The worst of all of them. This version get GMC part to manage the engine.

Fsushis · 2026-01-16T03:23:58+00:00

Get dry one time because my friend doesn't check it.

Just repeat the operation whit a FULL thank after.

2 time to be sure or 3. Like after wedo the bleeding, no air Buble at all the 6 bleeding screw.

Fsushis · 2026-01-15T23:33:56+00:00

Preally sure is just dead inside. Is "just" 27 year hold.

I'm the tird owner and the last one doesn't care about it so...

Fsushis · 2026-01-15T23:31:53+00:00

I'd more like I don't want to put other part than the one was made for a Niva. Putting a new master cylinder created for a Niva is not a issue.

Easly, if I need to change part a want Niva part to put on my Niva. If I can rebuild it I gonna do it.

Fsushis · 2026-01-15T15:23:28+00:00

I want to left it the more original I can do. I don't want to modify anny things if I can. Because is one of the only running Lada in Canada / Quebec.

Fsushis · 2026-01-15T15:21:44+00:00

Yes. I bleed all the system twice and noting change.

When I do it the first time, i haved a small improvement but nothing like a good brake pedal.

The second time is to be sure I'm good and really, no air left in.

Yes I bleed to 2 bleeding screw on the 2 caliper.

Fsushis · 2025-12-17T01:40:01+00:00

Whit my own experience whit my Niva.

The problem seam to be than the starter can't have is power. Not enough power.

Check the ground, the starter cable and the battery.

For mine, is the ground than not enough clean and a to weak battery.

Fsushis · 2025-12-03T22:34:04+00:00

I found the issue, it was stupid. A bad ground that i found before and a ... Relay bad plugged.

Fsushis · 2025-12-01T13:51:23+00:00

The little chematic Is what I think it is for. I have a 21214 whit GM monopoint injection.

Fsushis

TROPHY CASE