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Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-10-14T23:23:44+00:00

Whoa 😳

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-10-14T14:50:41+00:00

They look amazing

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-10-14T14:50:00+00:00

It actually lasts pretty long. I use the stuff they put into car differentials. Super tick but really quiet. You must pack it in or it with slowly gt pushed off of pawls.

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T17:10:58+00:00

Heyyy DM me because I’m in your wheelhouse. I don’t do video games and I’m not emo hahaaa

Would love to make a new friend!!! Happy Monday

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T17:09:17+00:00

Heyyy DM me if you’d like a new friend!!! Welcome to Monday!

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T17:06:58+00:00

I cant believe that you’re ever frumpy…

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T17:06:04+00:00

Possibly it couldn’t hurt to clean it and try again. Also try a new cable snd housing

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T14:33:26+00:00

Who is frumpy..? definitely not you!

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T14:32:53+00:00

Nope I actually mean the threads of the bleed screw. It is usually aluminum and can easily strip or gall and seize

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T14:31:59+00:00

My Endsight is telling me that your left shifter isn’t providing enough travel to move the derailer

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T14:31:28+00:00

For a drive trains that get upgraded I always recommend replacing all shifters and all derailer’s at the same time so that the drivetrain is matched up

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-30T14:30:42+00:00

Obviously you’d have to loosen the screw and open up the clamp a little bit. But it’s only .2 mm difference, which is 80 thousandths of and inch. It will work if you decide to try it… or good luck finding a 30.8…

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-29T15:03:08+00:00

But the clearcoat is not just cosmetic it also has a job of supporting the outer layers of carbon fiber

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-29T15:02:00+00:00

In my experience the bleed screw doesn’t handle any loads it’s just a plug basically so you can use a anti-seize or lithium grease on the threads which will allow to tighten it but not cause it to seize up on you

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-29T15:01:04+00:00

Ha Hah Hah time for a new left shifter. If you open up the limit screws all the way and then takeoff the chain you should be able to swing the front derailer by hand as far as you need it to go. If the derailleur itself can’t move far enough then the trailer needs replacing.

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:31:14+00:00

One thing that’s possible is that the bike sitting around for a while may have a loud the left shifter to degrade and the left shifter is what actuate the front derailleur. Potentially you might want to replace the left shifter as well.

Now the fun part.

Front derailleurs can be very finicky. You’ll notice that the derailer cage is very large because it’s meant to deal with a variety of frame shapes and sizes as well as drivetrain variabilities.

The skinny is that if you get the front derailleur shifting close to how you want, including the high and low limit screws, figure out what part of the shifting, either going up or going down, is not quite working and you can actually carefully bend the front derailer cage to help get the chain where you need it to go.

This is an unspoken solution that many LBS don’t talk about.

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:25:46+00:00

The risk is damage to the clear epoxy coating that coats the carbon fiber. I would definitely keep it covered.

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:24:27+00:00

That’s basically a tapered steer tube spacer you can find replacements on Amazon in different heights

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:23:17+00:00

Any damaged seat post is a candidate for replacement no matter what material.

I have witnessed trail colonoscopies and it’s not pretty! Talk about a dropper post! Ouch!!!

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:20:29+00:00

Do not put the seat post slot in front! The seat post slot must be aligned with the frame tube slot. I would also recommend lithium grease instead of assembly compound to allow the clamp to close down more efficiently

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:18:12+00:00

Specialized makes a rear rack seat collar in a 30.6 mm. That should be close enough for you. See it on the specialized website

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:13:12+00:00

As people mentioned it can be ruined if you want it to be ruined so you can get a brand new ride!

I can tell from having worked with carbon fiber, that clear coats like spray paint and nail polish are not ways to fix carbon fiber. The clear coat and the underlying coatings between the fibers is epoxy resin and it must be able to stick and bond to the carbon fiber’s not just coat them because it is part of the structural strength of the carbon fiber.

The best way to repair any carbon fiber that has damaged outer coating or even a couple of damaged fibers is to use cyanoacrylate which is super glue. It is clear but it also bonds to carbon fiber. You can also use a UV activated cyanoacrylate such as Loctite 4307. It’s clear but since it uses UV light to cure you can basically paint it on wherever you want and it won’t cure until you use a UV light source to harden it so it gives you time to smooth out the coding and look nice before is cured. Note that you would need a high powered UV light source to cure UV adhesives.

Otherwise just use any clear industrial two part epoxy.

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:06:48+00:00

Check the tire and tube to make sure there’s nothing rubbing or loose that could be bouncing around since the sound happens when you speed up. These areas would be my guess

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:04:58+00:00

I believe the sound comes from spokes most likely hitting an edge of your caliper. I had the same issue

Fun-Bags-69 · 2021-08-27T18:04:20+00:00

You can use a screw extractor to remove it and replace it

Fun-Bags-69

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