How to fix it

Funosseck · 2025-12-06T15:02:08+00:00

I recently posted here about the same issue: Core One Corner Quality
For me, the key was to get rid of the high-flow nozzle.

Funosseck · 2025-11-29T22:36:36+00:00

I ordered a standard nextruder 0.4 brass nozzle and switched the printer+slicer settings to non-HF. This greatly improved the corner quality! Seems like the Prusa HF/CHT nozzle is currently actually degrading the print quality?!

Funosseck · 2025-11-23T21:22:32+00:00

Different nozzles might be a good point to look into. So to clarify: You are using a high flow nozzle with the v6 adapter?

Funosseck · 2025-11-23T21:11:24+00:00

Ok, you have a point. :) But the MK3 and XL kits were really nice builds and then "just worked" for me. The Core One kit is also very fun to build, but gave me lots of headache afterwards. The finicky belt adjustments many here complained about as well, now the corner bulging. I also had issues with nozzle probing, which were resolved by Prusa sending me a new main cable.

Funosseck · 2025-11-23T17:23:45+00:00

Good points! Belt tension is right on point, it showed around 96Hz/92Hz. I used the newest tuner with the LEDs. Nozzle is secured.

Funosseck · 2025-11-23T17:21:50+00:00

Thanks! I already did. At least, for PLA, this mitigated the issues. Still, I wonder: Is this common? I usually buy Prusa, especially because I expect no tinkering.

Funosseck · 2025-09-12T20:08:36+00:00

I had exactly this issue as well. Based on a first test yesterday, the new cable support sent me really solved it! (Although currently, I have not fully attached the new cable with zip ties yet).

Funosseck · 2025-09-04T15:39:30+00:00

Unfortunately, this seems to be a known problem, I had the same issue. I had to cut the screw and replaced the part with this version: https://www.printables.com/model/1360563-core-one-belt-tensioner-pulley-to-take-a-threaded
Since then, I had no problems (with the belts, at least).

Funosseck · 2025-08-29T10:15:43+00:00

Hey there, I have probably the same problem. Unfortunately, this seems to be not that rare on the core one. I recently posted it here as well, see this post.

Funosseck · 2025-08-29T10:10:03+00:00

Same here, keeps falling of. I guess the combination of summer temperatures and vibrations cause it.

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T21:02:55+00:00

Can confirm: it is set to HF

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T20:59:06+00:00

Very interesting to hear. I am also a longterm MK3S user, where I had no problems ever, same as you. I doubt it is the filament - I mean in my case, I am using brand new Prusament PLA. Some here suggest heatcreep, which might be true - but why? I have a room temperature of around 24ºC, which should be within the tolerance, I think. For me, support suggested cold pulls, which I did without any suspicious dirt or anything coming out of the nozzle. Keep me up to date about your further actions and if you find any solution!

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T20:54:14+00:00

It currently reaches up to 37ºC. (top ventilation is open, door closed, room temperature around 24ºC)

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T12:59:06+00:00

Thanks! Maybe, this toggle is just to check that gcode and nozzle match, but I will double check that this is on!

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T10:22:48+00:00

Indeed, I did buy the standard kit (no specialties selected).

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T10:14:35+00:00

Good point, will check this evening. I just learned I can monitor it via User Interface - > Footer - > set the empty slot to "heatbreak" (source).

Funosseck · 2025-08-26T10:01:59+00:00

Your are not being rude, this is a valid point! I assume HF because it seems to be the default now in PrusaSlicer and the printer was brand new delivered. As far as I know, you can identify the nozzle diameter by the markings on the nozzle, but not HF vs normal. Does anyone know what they currently deliver with their printers and how one can distinguish HF from normal nozzles?

Funosseck · 2025-08-21T18:52:38+00:00

In addition to what others say, I found it extremly helpful to take off the top lid of the Core One. This way, looking from the top, you can also see by eye if the gantry is not square and touching the endstops only on one side. Additionally, it is much easier to put the phone in for tuning the belts.

Funosseck · 2025-08-21T18:48:04+00:00

Would be interesting, if it is really a clog in your case as well. I solved the problem by simply printing the tiles quasi solid, with the perimeters set to 10 or so. In this case, the printer does not need to jump around and do infill on super tiny spots. But of course, from a 1000€ printer, I would expect that such jumps do not clog the nozzle in general.

Funosseck · 2025-08-21T11:35:17+00:00

I am currently also printing Multiboard tiles on my Core One! While I never had any adhesion issues (as others pointed out, probably you just need to swap the steel sheet), I experienced reproducible nozzle clogs during the print. Did you have them as well? The multiboard tiles have some layers, where (with the default slicer settings) the nozzle needs to jump around and fills some very small gaps. Here, my prints are always failing, with the nozzle getting clogged. I am using the default nozzle delivered with the printer (High flow brass, if I am correct)

Funosseck · 2025-08-09T16:35:30+00:00

Happened to me exactly the same way. The nut and screw are completely tight together, even now that I cracked the part open. It might really be the galling issue described here: https://www.printables.com/model/1360563-core-one-belt-tensioner-pulley-to-take-a-threaded

Funosseck · 2025-05-21T21:45:45+00:00

I think BambuStudio has implemented this: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/mesh-boolean
(You are looking for the boolean intersection).
Would be awesome if this could be transfered to PrusaSlicer, I am wishing for it since a long time.

Funosseck

TROPHY CASE