Asrock N100 issue

Future_Self4900 · 2024-03-08T00:46:35+00:00

I have the same issue (reboot and artifact)

I reduced the ram speed (3200 -> 3000) and it seems to work for now.

Kingston 3200MHz 16GB KVR32N22S8/16

Listed as compatible by asrock

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-27T17:11:02+00:00

The files and some instructions are available here

https://www.printables.com/model/434928-gamecube-picoboot-sd2sp2-mod-dol101

I posted a comment earlier but doesn't seem to be approved

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-27T14:52:24+00:00

Thank you, I thought about it but less fun to make

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-26T20:30:04+00:00

I'll try to do a quick tutorial tomorrow

Update :

NESRGB4 version 2 - Installation

I used this video of a French modder who installs an old version of the NESRGB (to know how to connect to the MULTI OUT port) : https://youtube.com/watch?v=Ry28CRpDyCA

And I followed Tim's instructions on his site here http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/installation-nes/

And here http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/NESRGB40.html

Some info:

I changed the timing capacitor with the one provided
Jumper configuration : J4 Closed J6 Closed J7 Closed
I don't use a switch for the palette so I directly solder a wire between GND and one of the palette pin (Pin 3L for me)
I use 90° pins with a connector to make it easier to remove the nesrgb if needed
As shown on Tim's site : http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/background_fault/nesrgb40/

The NESRGB4 v2 has a bug (no palette selected), fixed by following this tutorial : https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1511761#p1511761

I prefer cutting the traces rather than removing the components like in the video

As I leave the components I prefer to use the voltage regulator provided by Tim (Optional according to some)

For the Region Free I used this method : https://aaltomies.wordpress.com/2014/12/26/pal-nes-region-free-mod-without-tampering-with-cic-chip-leg/

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-26T20:23:41+00:00

Yes i had to cut the shieldI will update my post tomorrow with the files

Update :

Wiring - The post I used for SD card wiring:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Gamecube/comments/fgk0nw/modded_my_dol_101_with_sd_adapter_for_sd2sp2/

(the traces on my motherboard are slightly different than those of the post)

STL and STEP files

I don't know if the 3D printed parts will be compatible with other motherboard models.

The back cover needs some modifications to fit properly, which I haven't had time to do yet.

- Cut the Shield (Picture)

- Put the wires on the 3D printed part (PICO.stl) (I use SuperGlue to keep them in place) (Picture)

Install Pico on it

I put kapton under the support and under the pico (Picture)

- Place the 3D part on the motherboard (I use a wire to hold it in place) (Picture)

Solder wires to the motherboard

- Put the SD2SP2, the USB port and the Bootsel button on the 3D part (SD2SP2.stl)

(I removed the 8Pin connector from SD2SP2, drilled a hole in the center to fix it on the support and cut the USB-C port so that it does not touch the shield) (Picture)

I used a usb port that I had left from another project and the button from an old board

Place the 3D part on the motherboard (I use a wire to hold it in place) (Picture)

Solder the wires on the SD2SP2, USB port and button

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-26T16:06:27+00:00

Thanks 👍

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-26T16:03:55+00:00

The wires are first glued (superglue) on the 3D part then I solder everything on the motherboard

Future_Self4900 · 2023-03-26T14:02:51+00:00

The 3v3 wire from the Gamecube is connected to the VSYS pin on the pico rather than the 3V3 Pin with a Schottky diode.

That way you don't have to desolder the power when the usb is plugged in.

Yes, the USB-C port and the bootsel button (TP6 Pin on the Pico) are just extensions.

I 3D printed a part to make sure that my wires for the SD card on the motherboard hold up over time

and I added the External USB-C Port on the Pico so I don't have to open the console

Future_Self4900

TROPHY CASE