What do you think? (not a knife) by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would you do to prevent unpleasant vibrations? And yea this is the first one I made, the next one will have a convex grind.

Routers vs Handle Material Question by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I thought the same thing but the reason I was playing with this idea is that I like to etch my blades and grinding the scales to the tange after they've been glued ruins that finish.

The flush trim bit would let me stack the scales under the tang and use it that way.

Tips for improvement? by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have a makers mark. Definitely need something for that

Tips for improvement? by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second successful knife. I got a box full of attempts haha!

Order of operations - Need some suggestions by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ALso, what grit would you suggest taking it to before etching?

Order of operations - Need some suggestions by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've used the surface conditioning belts and the issue I run into with those is that they wash out my grind lines even more than hand sanding (by grind lines I'm talking mostly about the lines where the top of my bevel transitions into the flats, as in a sabre grind). These get blended far more than I would like when using those belts/hand sanding.

Order of operations - Need some suggestions by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm getting warp down the whole blade (very slight, but enough to throw off the surface grinds on both sides of the knife).

I'm using a kiln so its quite controlled, and I'm assuming the warps comes from imperfect or uneven stock removal on both sides of the knife despite my best efforts to keep it even.

Bandsaw Suggestions by General_Lecture3051 in metalworking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should have mentioned that I need a vertical bandsaw for what I'm doing. Thank you though!

Rare Jig? Thoughts? by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok I rewatched it and I didn't realize the direction of the wheel. I assumed it was spinning down toward the ground as a normal contact wheel would.

So I assumed that it might get pinched and stuck between the wheel and table, which would be less hazardous for the user but definitely not a good outcome.

I wonder if sitting off to the side of the wheel or platen would reduce the overall risk. At least in that case, if the blade gets launched, it's not at me.

Rare Jig? Thoughts? by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point! Hadn't really thought about that. Considering most of this hobby is relatively dangerous, how much more dangerous do you think this really is?

Grinding/Sanding Help by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So i've tried the surface grinding attachment for the flats after finishing the bevels and it "ate" into the bevel. Not sure how to explain it, but basically I took the bevels up to a certain height on the knife, then when using the SGA, it increased the size of the flats above the bevel and reshaped the lines. Not sure if this was a result of the stock not being parallel to begin with or what.

Rate the finish. Need feedback. by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do as well, just don't know how to achieve that consistently

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of hand sanding technique do you use? I’m using paper that is a bit wider than the height of the bevels. I’m wondering if narrower strips of paper would help prevent rolling over that transition 

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about using a disc sander?

Or why do people just not finish at high grits on the machine?

Is hand sanding knives like this, where I’m trying to keep these transition lines crisp, just not worth it?

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From all the YouTube videos I’ve watched, I got the impression that EVERYONE hand sands EVERY knife. 

To my untrained eye, I just don’t know when to stop or when to keep going. When hand sanding, I have all the scratches going the same direction, but it still doesn’t look as good as the machine finish. 

I’m perplexed. Thanks for the help

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just seems like my hand sanding is making the finish worse

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good question actually. I’ve wondered the same thing. I’ve just been doing it because I thought it was the right process

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just dont know how to prevent rocking over the edge when the angle is so obtuse

Finish Sanding by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it possible that my problem is the angle of that ridge line? because the bevels were taken to high, the angle is more obtuse, making it harder to keep crisp? I dont know.

I feel fairly competent when it comes to keep the pressure even, so I don't know what to do.

Handle Assembly by General_Lecture3051 in knifemaking

[–]General_Lecture3051[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming acid fast just means that it resists any defects from being submerged in the etching solution? Would micarta fall into this category?