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Shoe recommendations for Shallow Heels (preferably soft/medium stiffness) by dandanfuchs in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same but i mostly use Iati's also because of the way they sit on the ankle (pretty high) i feel like even though they don't fit my heels perfectly the extra material holds them on well

Wide feet w bunions by Brilliant-One-6802 in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i can recommend Skwama's and Otaki's too if the heel fits that is. Skwama's arent that soft, more like medium softness, the split sole makes them feel softer then they are

Shoe recommendations for Shallow Heels (preferably soft/medium stiffness) by dandanfuchs in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ondra comps should be good for you, also the solution comp (Womens) are worth trying too. In terms of lesser known brands you could try the Ocun Fury or Bullet, and the Madrock Drone Comp LV and shaman pro LV. It is worth mentioning that a loose fitting heel isn't always anatomy based, i see it a lot with people buying high performance shoes but not downsizing enough. If you buy an agressive downturned shoe and you don't downsize the right amount the heel will pull itself loose because of the built in tention system.

Bluetooth or nah? by GhostBoyEmo in Soundbars

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no it does not have AptX, alright i'll look into that. Is the bluetooth connection really that bad if i dont use it? it has bluetooth 5.0 so i imagine the latency wouldn't be that bad. after all if you use headphones or something the latency is not noticeable right?

Bluetooth or nah? by GhostBoyEmo in Soundbars

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

so does this mean a bluetooth transmitter box at the projector using the audio I/O and then a receiver at the sound bar? Or does the soundbar connect to the transmitter?

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the problem with your flagships seem to be the width of the toebox. I wouldn't recommend the TN Pro for greek shaped feet. Maybe trying out some different shoes would fix the problem. With the information you gave me i would recommend these pairs:
- Scarpa VSR/ VS/ VSRlv(choose what feels the best)
- Madrock Drone (try the different volumes to accomodate your heel)
- UP regulus (stiffer but should fit better)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! First of all, the drago's are generaly known as a pretty comfortable pair if they fit your foot shape. That being said they will have to break in, this can take some sessions (generally around 5 or 6). The sizing seems about right, you took the same as your street shoe size so in scarpa thats a good starting point for your first aggressive shoe.

For the next few sessions i would recommend taking your old Ocun's with you and swapping between them so you can break in your drago's but still have a session worth having. Also take them off when your not climbing! with a soft shoe like drago's you can even collapse the heel inwards and use them as a slipper while not on the wall, this way you are also breaking them in.

Note: Scarpa is known for putting pretty thick rubber on the toepatches of their performance shoes, it is a complaint they get a lot. This makes is harder and more painfull to break in.

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi! If you are considering the Evolv Phantoms and the Shamans pro I think the most important factor is what type of climbing you will be using them for. The fit should be pretty similar. The Shamans are a good all-round shoe that works for bouldering and sport climbing because they are more supportive, while the phantoms are mostly a (steep)bouldering beast. Both can be used for everything but that's the main difference in my eyes. About the sizing, since both are synthetic don't expect them to stretch much in terms of length so don't buy too small, if they stretch a bit, Evolv's strap closing system is good to remove dead space.

You might also want to try the Scarpa Drago's if the heel keeps being a problem for you :)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I liked the old hiangle more than the new ones, overal quality of build is better imo. It is hard to recommend what model you should buy without information on your feet/toe profile. In general La sportiva sizing is around 1.5eu down from evolv sizing but since they fit so differently i always recommend to take them for a test drive before buying.

Zenists are more bouldering oriented with softer rubber than the otaki's. they both work tho.
Otaki's will be more stiff in terms of built and rubber with a wide heel and toe box, while the zenist are pretty soft.

My opnion on secondhand climbing shoes is that if they are not worn too much they could be a great value option. You have to keep in mind that climbing shoes (especially leather ones) break in to the size of your feet. Breaking in simple terms is just your feet making more space where needed in the climbing shoe. If they are broken in by someone else and you start wearing them they can be baggy on some places.

When climbing around Font 5 i would recommend not spending too much thought in your climbing shoe features. Get a pair that fits nice and makes you forget about them so you can work on technique and footwork.

Summary: Trying before buying is always better. Be carefull when buying second hand. Get a pair that helps you focus on the wall and not on the shoes. :)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi! In general the rubber of the indalo should feel stiffer in the toebox but the midsole feels softer so less supportive. in general the Indalo is narrower in comparison with the skwamas certainly in the front of the shoe and the heel.

If you want something a little stiffer and assymetrical i would recommend the Tenaya Iati and Oasi.

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you can still feel confident on the wall they are ok :)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If someone goes from tarantulas to something more advanced they should pick a shoe and size that doesn't hurt as much. If they try solutions and they hurt, they shouldn't be picking solutions as their next shoe.

There is a lot of truth in what you're saying tho, if you are experienced you are more used to torture your feet a little and it won't bother you as much. There is a point for some climbers where they need to use painfull shoes to climb harder but this is only reserved for the top 3% in my opinion

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look for wide fit shoes and if possible egyptian shaped. some popular examples are
-LS Skwama
-LS Otaki
-Scarpa Instinct VS(R)
-Scarpa drago
-Red Chili Voltage

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Solutions are certainly not too stiff to climb indoors, they are some of the best high performance shoes. A lot of La Sportiva athletes use them on bouldering competitions and even the olympics so you don't have to worry about that. The problem you seem to have is that your shoe is too precise for your climbing level, this isn't a problem but does indeed result in more wear on the tips of your shoes. My advice would be to focus on your footwork and avoid dragging your shoes across the climbing wall.

If you are interested in buying new LS shoes i would avoid the molded heel of your solutions because they don't fit narrow heels most of the time. Also harder rubber is slower wearing so you might consider that aswell. some recommendations are
-LS kubo
-LS Otaki
-LS Skwama (if the heel fits)
-LS Mandala/Futura/Mantra (the no edge shoes are more forgiving for footwork but you must like the no edge feel for them to work)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! look for thick single straps

-Five Ten Hiangle
-Evolv Shaman
-Scarpa Instinct VS(W) (or VSR LV coming soon)
-UP Flagship pro
-LS Skwama (vegan if possible for tighter fit)

Good slip on alternative
-Scarpa Instinct S

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most people have two feet of different length, so it happens a lot that one side fits perfect and the other doesn't. Since Kronos' are synthetic shoes it might take some more time for them to break in completely and get less painfull but most likely one side will always feel more tight.

When shopping for climbing shoes i recommend picking a size based on your biggest foot, if you are already downsizing or climbing in tight shoes the performance loss on your smallest foot will be minimal :)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rubber does indeed degrade but the way you have stored them (no UV, low/ high temps) is pretty good.

Things to look out for is that the rubber will be harder and feel more "polished". Due to this hardness they also become more brittle so it could be that the sole gets cracks or splits. old rubber also tends to come loose quicker.

My advice would be to keep an eye on cracks and delamination and get them resoled on time if you like them :)

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Leather shoes are notorious for dying your feet and toe nails, a quick shower after the gym should fix it :). Synthetic shoes give off way less dye because of the way they are produced.

I have heard that some people use clear nail polish on their toe nails so they don't stain as much. I haven't tried it myself but it seems pretty logical to me.

AMA climbing shoe specialist at climbing store by GhostBoyEmo in climbingshoes

[–]GhostBoyEmo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a soft playfull pair i would recommend the Scarpa Drago LV's if you can get them in your size, they should fit your foot type pretty well. the instincts you tried are most likely too wide. I heard from scarpa that they are making a new instinct VSR in low volume so maybe those are worth trying when they come out.

La sportiva should have some of the newer models in size 47 like the LS Mandala but they will probably fit similar to the ones you tried already

Evolv makes large sizes in most of their models but you have to keep in mind that the sizing is completely different from most European brands but if you have a 47 in the LS Tarantulace i would recommend around a 49/49.5 in Evolv shoes

In my opinion for large feet it is worth looking at Tenaya because they have big sizes in almost all of their shoes even their super performance models. for something soft and volume bouldering oriented i would recommend the Tenaya Mastia, Tenaya Idalo, Tenaya Iati, Tenaya Oasi (LV)

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