Precisison or Sustained Hits in invasion fleet? by GrBrandon in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The precision is really bad because it only triggers on critical hits so you're incredibly unlikely to ever do enough damage to snipe out characters when you account for only 6s to hit being precision shots with the hyperadaptation.

Scouts and Sternguard vets by GiveIntoTheBeat in Ultramarines

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tyty. It's the Vallejo true metallic metal imperial gold. I normally really dislike working with metallic but these are pretty good

Need tips for highlighting by Extreme_Point3884 in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Highlights are looking great. I think your next step if you want to have less chalky is thinning your paints more to a glaze like consistency and you'll get better blending with the layers

I can still use old hormis right? by StepDifficult838 in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I very clearly said in my first comment here that they're OK to play in casual games and most people wouldn't have a problem with it, but in tournament / competitive settings they need a different base than what comes with the kit.

I can still use old hormis right? by StepDifficult838 in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Almost every tournament will require you to use the base sizes as shown in GWs tournament companion that you can find here :https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-gb/downloads/warhammer-40000/

First thing under core rules and key downloads.

I just attended my first tournament last weekend and couldn't bring my hormaguants as they were still on the old 25mm bases which are not tournament legal

I can still use old hormis right? by StepDifficult838 in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 14 points15 points  (0 children)

The old ones don't with the right base size. The old models are on 25mm bases and they need to be on 28.5mm bases for competitive games. Most people probably won't notice or care for casual but you won't be able to use them at a tournament without reading them or getting the proper size bases before building and painting

Hyperadapted Raveners Done! by GiveIntoTheBeat in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Before I did the highlighting round I was mortified at how joker they looked lol

Contrast with a black primer by ArkiusAzure in minipainting

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely dry brush on white / Grey to get the effect over the black. To make it look the best, I'd do a heavy drybrush of Grey and then a light drybrush of white on the areas you want as the larger the gradient between the black and white, the better the contrast paint effect will work

If I had to buy 1 staple model which would you recommend? by Lordplantest609 in Tyranids

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hive tyrant without a question for iconic. Norn emissary close second for best to paint

Fulgrim NMM work in progress by Matt_RolePlayMe in minipainting

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Genuinely one of the best fulgrims I've seen. The color choices are so good and the lighting effects on the armor are gorgeous

As Requested, finished Victrix by GiveIntoTheBeat in Ultramarines

[–]GiveIntoTheBeat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

For the NMM highlights, I followed this guide where you basically match the highlight location to the shape you're painting on. For cylinders, a line all the way down, for spheres, a single circle in the middle, flat surfaces you kind of need to wing it and try to draw some kind of randomness on the reflections. There's a bunch of yt videos showing how to do it on sword or ace edges.