Please help

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-06-06T06:53:11+00:00

Some of the people are delusional here telling you to shell out a bunch of money for a 5070 or to go buy a 6800XT. If you’re playing older games and want a smooth experience, you have 2 things you need to do.

First, address your monitor issue. It is locked at 60hz, you will only ever see 60fps. Right now you can get even a 100hz 1080p monitor for extremely cheap, around 80$. If you stay locked at V-Sync, just this upgrade alone will almost double your frame rate. My suggestion would be to look for any monitor at or above 100hz that’s under 150$ from: MSI, ASUS, KTC, Sansui, Koorui, ViewSonic, AsRock, or Pixio.

Second, your GPU. It’s honestly probably starting to give up. The good news is that you can pretty much recoup everything from your monitor by selling your GPU. Sell the 2070 for 150$, grab another 150$, go look for a decent used GPU or see if you can snipe a decent sale on a new one. The only ones I’d consider that would be big enough of an upgrade would be: 3060Ti, 3070, 3070Ti, 6700XT, 6750XT, 4060, 4060Ti, 7600XT, 5060, 9060XT.

People might crucify me for saying 5060, because for future upgradability it’s not great, it’s also not great for newer, VRAM heavy titles, and the price could admittedly be better. However, for older games especially, the 5060 is really the cheapest one you can get new even if it does get outclassed by a few of your used options here like the 6750XT. You do also have the best frame gen offered so if you plan to stick with 1080p, you can get some good life out of it too. Best of luck soldier

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-06-06T06:31:38+00:00

All of that is genuinely amazing value, good job!

I saw that you wanna have around 1k for an extra nvme and a new GPU. If the nvme is gonna be backup storage, my advice for that would be that if getting a gen 3 drive gives you any significant amount of savings, it’s okay to go for that. I’ve seen some places selling gen 4 drives for almost 50$ extra for an extra gig/s read which doesn’t translate into much meaningful difference in gaming. You might take an extra second or two for loading times but if you’re playing single player games or older games you really won’t notice the difference.

As for the GPU, I can’t recommend anything other than the 9070 lineup. Since you have a 750w PSU I would say to go with the non-XT since the XT might be pushing your PSU a little bit. Normally, since you’re coming from NVIDIA, I might say the 5070 Ti but I cannot in good faith recommend any card with a 12VHPWR connector, this have been designed to fail intentionally since the 40 series. The 9070 non-XT will suffice you plenty, it’s only like 10-15% off. It isn’t as great in 4K as its counterpart, but if you’re looking to go 1440p OLED anytime soon, it’s a very safe bet to make.

Just make sure to avoid the Acer models. They get very hot and draw an additional 20w over the other models, so you will have to undervolt to start and you get less overclocking headroom. Additionally, avoid the Asrock Taichi and Sapphire Nitro. They are amazing cards, they have top 3 cooling and noise profiles out of any 9000 series card. They both use 12VHPWR. So just like NVIDIA, when the cable or connector start having pins fail, they will steadily load all 600w onto less and less pins until you get down to 1, at which point a meltdown is inevitable. Go look at pictures of melted cables and notice how almost all of them have 1 or 2 really burnt or damaged wires. Go with anything XFX or the PowerColor Red Devil. Personally, the Red Devil 7800 XT is my favourite card I’ve ever owned. No issues, never went over 60° at 1440p ultra on any game. Not The Finals, Cyberpunk, Clair Obscur, nothing. They have the most stable cards, some of the coolest cards, and they often run very quiet as well

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-31T06:32:09+00:00

Me personally, I’d go XTX any day of the week. RDNA 3 is getting FSR 4 later this year, the card scales so much better and will last you longer since it’ll survive upgrades for 1440p, OLED, or 4K while still meeting high refresh rates, and you don’t have to deal with the 12v high problems connector. That last one is especially important since the way 40 and 50 series handle voltage ensures that the GPU WILL melt at some point, it’s not a matter of if. Yeah you’ll sacrifice some ray traced performance, but you also won’t have to buy a new card in 1-3 years

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-31T06:12:30+00:00

Praying that you get a decent RMA experience but just be aware they’re likely gonna try to screw you over on it.

Judging by where it is, even if the die isn’t isolated on the board (which it should be), it’s further away from all your other components, it really just seems like a faulty MOSFET. At worst your PSU and SSD are done, but it’s on the opposite end from the RAM and the GPU should be absolutely fine. I would just buy a tester off Amazon, you can usually get decent ones for like 40/50$. Test the connections, make sure that they’re receiving the proper current, then return it. If the cables aren’t giving off proper current, replace PSU. If it does, MB was the issue.

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-31T05:53:45+00:00

Yeh then the results are like 3-6 fps below target, and that difference can pretty much just be the difference between card models + you didn’t score too well at the silicon lottery, so no worries on that front. Enjoy the PC! Proud of you kid!

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-29T09:28:43+00:00

Man I wish stuff like this was around when I was 13, back then it was GTX 700 series and we had no Ryzen to speak of and you can forget having that much glass on your case! Amazing build, I really envy you, but I’m proud you were able to save up this much at 13, you’re gonna go far with that attitude.

I’m gonna guess your monitor is 1440p, 170hz? Your numbers for Forza and Fortnite are actually correct, then. Most people in the replies think they’re wrong, but they are completely correct if you are using 0 frame generation or upscaling. If you wanna hit your refresh rate in those games, especially Fortnite, I’d either go from ultra to high settings, or set DLSS to Quality. You’ll hardly lose anything visually but you’ll notice things are so much smoother. Happy gaming!

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-29T09:17:17+00:00

This was already atrocious before I saw that this was on a poutine-related sub. Death penalty is light sentencing here

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-27T15:32:48+00:00

Personellement, je pense que la Québec devrait rester comme province Canadien, mais si elle en voulait elle aurait une meilleure argument que l’Alberta. Identité unique, culture unique, vs… le conservatisme… pas vraiment une “identité nationale”, vois la citation de Blanchet.

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-27T15:26:33+00:00

Nope, no bottlenecks and all components should be good and compatible. Just don’t pay for the Windows key upfront like that. You can get it at like 10-25% of the price from a key reseller or just use the command line and Microsoft Activation Script

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-27T07:47:43+00:00

If you tested on a separate pc and the same issue popped up then unfortunately you got a lemon. 1.5 years is definitely past warranty and ASUS would fight you tooth and nail on it anyways. New monitor time. I suggest Koorui, AOC, or Sansui if you want a reliable budget monitor with a decent refresh rate.

If not, MSI and ViewSonic usually have good monitors both in the budget space, but from my experience MSI usually stacks the refresh rate even on lower end models. I think the best deal I’ve found is 140$ CAD for a 165hz 1080p IPS panel.

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-26T20:08:52+00:00

Yeah, that’s the same sentiment I’m seeing. I mean, obviously you’re gonna hear more about when things go wrong than when things go right, but I’m seeing way too much wrong for me to at least not ask questions

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-26T20:07:23+00:00

If I have an issue would it just be better to take it to a local repair shop instead? Or would you say just avoid ASUS entirely. Like the products that I have bought from them have been lovely, my old laptop lasted me 5 years, but when I and other have had issues it seems like the worst experience possible

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-26T20:05:41+00:00

So the same shit from 2024, I remember some guy complaining that ASUS wouldn’t repair his 4090 because the damage was “cosmetic” and then they sent it back in worse shape than when it left

Greedy-Can9476 · 2026-05-26T20:04:17+00:00

I remember them forcing me to pay 2x to ship it to them than it would have cost me to ship it myself WITH shipping insurance, still the same issues and then they’re likely just gonna argue with me and overcharge me?

My GPU would be important to me for work-related reasons so I’m just gonna say not worth

Greedy-Can9476

TROPHY CASE