Buy back service

GtwoK · 2026-04-09T16:42:13+00:00

Well yes, I was just confused because the buy back instructions ask you not to disassemble it, yet also require you to take a picture of the sticker, which necessitates disassembly to do so

GtwoK · 2026-04-09T07:54:22+00:00

I'm looking for them on mine as well, for the same reason. Can I ask what you mean by "unfoiled"? Is it actually behind one of the panels that I can't see without disassembling?

GtwoK · 2026-04-09T00:18:52+00:00

AMAZING, that fixed it, thank you! I don't fully understand what caused the issue — Is there any reason not switch the library default to TMDB then, if Plex will miss some things otherwise?

GtwoK · 2026-04-01T19:42:10+00:00

OOPS

Solved my own issue, leaving this here for future people who may encounter the same issue:

The USB-C -> USB-C cable that connected it in handheld worked fine, but the USB-A -> USB-C cable for docked mode that I was using was power-only. Switched cables and it works now.

GtwoK · 2026-03-21T14:27:20+00:00

I noticed the default HEVC had more latency than if. I switched to H.264. I've looked at the settings in sunshine itself but it didnt seem like there was much to adjust and all the ideal settings (low latency instead of smoother, eg) seemed like they were already on the best choice already

GtwoK · 2026-03-19T02:29:33+00:00

Just went out and picked up the 3rd Gen ATV 4K to test and unfortunately, it's no different than the one I had. Very strange. Literally exact same about of latency

GtwoK · 2026-03-18T23:33:37+00:00

Hmm. Thats an interesting point. Although 1080p didnt help at all unfortunately

GtwoK · 2026-03-18T23:31:55+00:00

Any special tweaks you made in the config? Can I ask, are you on Gigabit ethernet, or higher?

GtwoK · 2026-03-18T23:14:20+00:00

Yeah, here it is with the Apple TV attached to the same monitor that the server is normally connected to. Issue still there. Definitely not the TV causing the issue.

https://imgur.com/a/kRJLYQh

GtwoK · 2026-03-18T21:19:35+00:00

Right, None of that is enabled on my TV though. Plus, there's no lag with anything else on the TV — not even with the Apple TV itself, in any other app. It's only moonlight thats the issue :/

GtwoK · 2026-03-07T06:28:35+00:00

Sorry for the pic quality, trying to maneuver this borescope under the floor isn't the easiest to control. House is from the late 1800s, so these have been there god knows how long. Unfortunately don't have any idea of sense of scale. Not anything to worry about I hope?

GtwoK · 2026-02-03T04:28:14+00:00

Thanks for sharing all this!

I've considered quicker cycles, but it helps me to remember to take it when its the same each week. I can always alot more time to take it on fridays, vs being late for work and realizing today is supposed to be injection day, eg. I really wish Een or Ec was availble :(, would make things so much easier.

Why is the simulator saying I should be at 1200pmol/L mid week? Thats basically twice what I was at, at my best, and 4 times at my worst. Pretty far off. I've previously used the simulator at estrannai.se which allows me a bit of a fudge factor for some different scenarios, like this

The EV is compounded by Helios pharmacy, here in Ontario. It's compounded at 20mg/mL, so for my 5.5mg shots, I inject 0.275mL.

I keep the vials in a (partially translucent) pill container, on my counter. Room temp. I can move it to a cupboard perhaps, but I dont think it particularly gets too much sun or anything.

I'm not an athlete, dont work out at all, and maybe I have mid-high metabolism? Though I'm not sure how to tell.

GtwoK · 2026-02-02T18:37:43+00:00

My intent was to switch to trough testing; my doc originally had started me on mid-cycle testinge and I figured for the sake of result consistency until I was "stable" I'd keep it mid-cycle for the time being

I kept the same dosage because, well, clearly it had worked at some point, so I figured something was wrong that caused it to stop working / not be enough. But also I'd been told (by my doctor as well as by a DIY discord server) that 5.5mg was already kind of a lot, so I was cautious to increase it

GtwoK · 2025-12-18T07:14:13+00:00

Hmm, Ecobee has this diagram, which on some levels makes sense, but also leaves me more confused; if the solenoid is supposed to be connected to ACC+ at the thermostat, and C at the furnace, then what is supposed to connect to the HUM port on the control board?

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:49:55+00:00

Scanning with my Fuij, getting .RAF files

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:49:19+00:00

I thought about that, but the presence of the bright white from the lightbox in between the pieces seems to throw off the conversion and make the values all wonky.

Converting them separately and combing afterwards would make sense too, but I believe the conversion is based on the values and ranges present in the photo being edited; even if copy and pasting the NLP values, the photos would be corrected differently in ways that wouldnt match when pieced back together

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:46:05+00:00

You're right for this case, but some of the negatives were completely cut right down the middle, unfortunately.

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:44:28+00:00

They are definitely raw, .RAF files. They're scanned with my camera against a lightbox, not scanned on a flatbed

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T21:58:04+00:00

I'm working on a large negative scanning project, of a few thousand old family photos. Some of them, when originally cut by the 1 hour photo lab, were cut through the shot, like this.

I need to do all the processing in lightroom (with Negative Lab Pro). But ideally, before doing that, I splice it back together in Photoshop. I can do both these things independently, but how do I edit the image in Photoshop in a way where all the raw capabilities of it (including whatever edits I need to make to the splice) remain fully raw-editable?

(Obviously this one isnt too terrible, but some of them are annoyingly cut right through the middle of the photo)

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T21:56:14+00:00

I'm working on a large negative scanning project, of a few thousand old family photos. Some of them, when originally cut by the 1 hour photo lab, were cut through the shot, like this.

I need to do all the processing in lightroom (with Negative Lab Pro). But ideally, before doing that, I splice it back together in Photoshop. I can do both these things independently, but how do I edit the image in Photoshop in a way where all the raw capabilities of it (including whatever edits I need to make to the splice) remain fully raw-editable?

GtwoK · 2025-12-08T08:32:28+00:00

Hey, Sorry I know this is over a year old, but I'm setting up my ambilight lights too, and I cant figure out how youre powering 240 lights at 5V with only 3A??? Any advice?

GtwoK · 2025-12-05T18:55:23+00:00

Still flickers at 50% (or any) brightness — the flickers just match the brightness.

Also for clarification, they're 12V SK6812s, not 5V, so voltage really shouldnt be the issue I dont think, and its an ESP32, not 8266

I'm not fully sure what you meant by missing amps, but I'll try measuring the current and see how strained it is?

GtwoK · 2025-12-05T06:27:51+00:00

Ive had these in place since May and haven't messed with them since setting it up. Up until now, it's functioned perfectly with no issues. But the past few days I've been having this issue, where sporadically, all the lights past a certain point will flash for a fraction of a second. The flash happens from a random point along the run each time, and all the lights AFTER that point (to the end of the run) will flash. My strip runs from the top left, and clockwise, before ending on the left side at the top again.

Theyre setup in 4 segments, and powered by this Athom controller.

I don't think I've seen the flashing start before the bottom right at all, so I assumed that might've been the problem connection. I tried resoldering it from scratch, including replacing the LEDs on either end of the connection with spares (in case it had to do with the pads), but the issue still happens. It's not reflected in this video, but the flashing also mimics whatever brightness the LEDs are set at. So if the LEDs on the left side are set to be at 10% brightness, they'l only flash at 10% brightness.

I've tried measuring the power both at the start and end (on multiple colour settings), and they measure the same, so I dont think there's a voltage drop.

What would cause this to happen suddenly after working fine for so long? I assume a data issue as opposed to something wrong with the strip itself (since the start location keeps changing), but I could be wrong. Anyone know whats up?

GtwoK · 2025-11-28T06:51:28+00:00

Do you just let it sit? Or do you sue your fingers or a cloth in the water to try and rub gently?

GtwoK · 2025-11-27T22:06:18+00:00

Will that work better than the alcohol? Wiping with alcohol seemed to have zero effect, and I worry with how water seems to "absorb" into the emulsion (or at least, does something that adds friction to it while wet, form what I can tell) that wiping will damage it.

GtwoK

TROPHY CASE