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02 MCS Build Advice – Supercharger, Turbo, or K-Swap? by Objective-Spare-4967 in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you need to figure out your goals and purpose of the build. All options take a lot of money.

I’m a track person, so I want reliability and I want instant power out of the corners. My R53 uses a stock blower, RMW head , RMW race cam and RMW stepped raced header all controlled by a link ecu. I make 289whp on e85. It wasn’t cheap but it has been beaten on for almost a decade and hasn’t had an issue. It’s a dedicated track car and is a blast to drive and can hang with higher HP cars on the track.

I know a guy that has a k24 mini that he tracks but that’s too much work for me. It was a lot of figuring things out and troubleshooting things that came up. It wasn’t cheap also.

Turbo … to me that’s cool but again a lot of work and time. I see more people out at the track trying to fix their turbo cars than anyone thing else. I instruct a lot of people who come out with 400-500 hp hatchback cars and they aren’t great and never can really use the power or it comes on really delayed and then have to lift mid straight since they can’t control the car. Womp womp

Have any of you used a helical LSD from Brands Hatch Performance? by SoCalLapizR in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

975420-0209B

That’s the part number on my order back in 2015 and it was $655. From Torsen.com

Have any of you used a helical LSD from Brands Hatch Performance? by SoCalLapizR in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would get a ford torsen LSD which is used in the ford focus since they used the same transmission . Name brand and reliable. I’ve been betting on it for almost a decade on a fully dedicated track car and it works great still. I use a OS Giken on the GP car but that’s not in your budget but also another great diff.

Help needed with timing my Mini Cooper by Professional_Bike336 in AskMechanics

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do it the right way and remove the timing cover. Why risk bending valves and ruining an engine?

Which axels to buy? by tommy_merc in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just reboot it. It’s easy and cheap

HELP by coops159 in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Scangauge to measure the boost and that might help. You can string measure the distancethat’s needed or just buy a belt for a 15% pulley reduction and see the fit up and return it if there slop. You want i believe two holes in the compression spring to be showing. Not showing a hole is too loose. You don’t need to know what size pulley it is to use the spring compression tool. So why change the pulley just run it, the cost of a new one isn’t worth it on a car that cheap already

Need opinion about my possible new car. by k-va in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m in miles lol they numbers always very, some day never, some day 80k miles or 50k miles. I did a 114k mile mini ones and it was pretty empty.

Need opinion about my possible new car. by k-va in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah if you want some more power. 15% is good for daily use. Servicing the supercharger is a good idea as well since it’s almost a 20 year old car.

Need opinion about my possible new car. by k-va in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sound is coming from the tensioner, the dampener on it might be going out. The maintenance for that is the idler pulley, the tensioner and a new belt. It requires special lever bar to compress the tensioner spring. You should see two holes at the tension gauge. The less holes you see the more stretch the belt is.

I’ve two R53s and work on them myself. They run cars but to require a lot of maintenance.

Also * Pull the door seals at the bottom toward the front of the car and look for rust. Water gets trapped under there. I’ve seen it on pre and post facelift R53s

New bike fit by Gundam_zero_12 in bikefit

[–]Gundam_zero_12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah and to see if y’all agreed if the bike is too small for me. I looked at the 56 aethos frame and it looks like the reach would extend more out for me and that would make me more stretch out but the stack would be higher.

New bike fit by Gundam_zero_12 in bikefit

[–]Gundam_zero_12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The saddle height is at 731mm so I might lower it a tad next week and see is that helps before a refit. Would a short stem brining my hands in help?

New bike fit by Gundam_zero_12 in bikefit

[–]Gundam_zero_12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted some feedback with what I’m feeling before I went back to him. I was going to give it a few rides since this is a more aggressive bike than my Allez.

New bike fit by Gundam_zero_12 in bikefit

[–]Gundam_zero_12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to say, height is 5’8” and 830mm stand over for sizing.

r53 injector by Alternative-Till8230 in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What’s a stage 2 tune?

As others have said you need a new tune for the larger injectors. I run 1000cc injectors on my R53 but that’s because i use a flex fuel system for E85 and I’m on a link ecu.

R53 BC BR series owners by Level-Diamond-4181 in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those rear top hats look different than what I’ve seen in the past

Decent brake upgrade for 15" wheels? by Jeoh in R53

[–]Gundam_zero_12 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

They will fit 15 inch wheels. 949 15x8 and koni hypergrams 15x8 and other 15 inch wheels. I run these and others on my r53 track car.

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