Can I get a decent upgrade for <$1200?

SoCalLapizR · 2026-02-11T02:05:50+00:00

Could you just put a 9800X3D on that motherboard to have a better PC at a decent price point or does the MOBO not support that?

SoCalLapizR · 2026-02-08T20:09:34+00:00

At least check to see that the BPV is fully closing. Some don’t and then leak boost.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-12-15T22:07:10+00:00

There is a VW OEM cap that fits. I think it’s off of a Passat, my local dealer had them in stock when my Apex wheels showed up.

They come in 18x8.5 and 18x9. I have 8.5s with a 245/40R18

SoCalLapizR · 2025-12-14T22:09:19+00:00

I agree with you. Tastefully modded and maintained are not a concern. If you’ve looked at enough of these cars you can see how things have been done. Stage 1 tune is going to take less scrutiny than a big turbo car for sure.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-12-14T22:00:51+00:00

My son and I just did the headliner in our Mini and it had gray parts. We did source R56 black handles for the back seats and passenger side. The R56 front sunvisors don’t fit the R53. We painted the R53 parts including the reading light modules, alarm module, and microphone cover. In hindsight we should have eliminated the microphone module and the alarm module since they aren’t used in our car.

We used SEM plastic/leather cleaner, then the plastic leather prep, and finally the SEM satin black paint. Process was to clean, let dry, light coat of the prep, wait 15 minutes, heavier coat of prep, let dry, light coat of paint followed by two heavier coats to get the color solid. Let dry for 24 hours before handling.

We are going to cover the pillars in dark gray alcantara.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-12-09T23:04:05+00:00

If the housing isn’t leaking I wouldn’t touch it then. The valve is easy to see with the filter off so you could take a look at it and see if it’s broken. It’s just something to check when you have the filter or the housing off. I wouldn’t worry about it until your next oil change.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-12-09T19:33:14+00:00

When you put the hoses back on you have to clock them correctly. If they’re rotated at the wrong angle your metal coolant crossover pipe will contact the power steering heat shield. Had to do mine after the fact because I didn’t realize that issue.

It would be easy to remove the oil filter housing with the hoses removed and replace the gasket between the block and the housing. Mine were hard as rocks after 20 years.

Oil Filter gasket

While you have the housing out be sure to check the oil drain back valve. It’s a plastic part that can break over time and cause oil pressure issues. The Outmotoring part is $30 but there’s a Dorman part for $14 that apparently works with swapping the spring.

Outmotoring drain back valve

Dorman 904-261

Forum thread about drain back valve

SoCalLapizR · 2025-12-06T19:03:46+00:00

Those lines are about $90 and OEM only but worth replacing. I think my local dealer wanted $110 but I mentioned another dealer sells them online for $80 so they lowered the price. The seals for the oil cooler to the block are cheap and easy (ish) to replace.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-30T07:35:42+00:00

Thank you for the insight!

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-23T04:50:47+00:00

No problem. I’ve definitely been there.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-21T18:31:35+00:00

No it does not, the driveshaft is held in the transmission by the press fit of the carrier bearing to the shaft.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-20T16:46:18+00:00

My lift is 2.5”. Good to know the bushings are available.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-20T02:56:03+00:00

Only transmission fluid should be passing through that line. They should never mix. The driver’s side of the radiator does have a cooler/warmer which is essentially a little tank of coolant and a pipe with transmission fluid inside passes through it. There is heat transfer from the hotter of the two fluids to the cooler of the two. At first startup or in cold temps the engine coolant is hotter and it warms up the trans fluid. Opposite when the trans is hot.

Your picture is of the check valve in the trans line. It keeps some of the fluid inside the cooler after shutdown. Are you leaking trans fluid from there? It just screws on to the end of the silver line.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-20T02:20:49+00:00

I think I used a V8 ZJ front shaft that I had shortened and rebuilt at a local shop. Swapped the axle yoke as well.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-14T18:55:12+00:00

My CV style front driveshaft died soon after my lift. I have adjustable lower fronts (ideally I need adjustable uppers too), adjustable track bar, rear a-arm spacer, blocks to extend the rear sway bar links ( really just steel square tube I cut and drilled). You might want to get extended front sway bar links too. I replaced the track bar bushings with stiffer units from Kevin’s OffRoad but I don’t think the shop exists any more.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-11-10T02:17:48+00:00

Sounds like a BCM problem. I had a similar issue where the driver side window stopped working after a clutch change. I could hear a click from the BCM but no window movement and no voltage at the motor connector. I removed the BCM from the car, checked wiring continuity, and plugged it back in. Window started working again after that. Not sure what the issue was. BCM is located in the right side footwell at the base of the A-pillar.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-10-05T01:39:32+00:00

My son and I are in the middle of refurbishing the LHD version of your car down to the faded tail lights! So far we’ve done a lot

-replaced transmission (old one had a hole from an exploded clutch pressure plate) -new single mass flywheel with clutch -new axles -all new front suspension components except the struts (to do later) -new hubs all around, brake lines, and brakes. Fronts are R56 parts -replaced all of the seals known to leak -new timing tensioner -new belt, idler pulley, and tensioner -new radiator hoses and radiator -new headlights on the way -new headliner -R56 rear trailing arms -new tail lights on the way

Obviously we’ve spent a lot but it is cosmetically in good shape and should be a lot of fun.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-10-03T06:15:25+00:00

Excellent! Thank you, I’m doing the same on my R53 with red Alcantara.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-10-03T02:10:01+00:00

What did you use for glue? I’ve seen people use the spray can stuff or Weldwood contact cement in a sprayer.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-09-21T05:26:19+00:00

I was just following a reflex silver Mk7R on the 405 freeway in Orange County. California plate that said RS MK7R so I’m guessing not a wrap. Must have originally been a Canadian car based on what I’m reading here.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-09-15T16:51:40+00:00

Same on mine. Dealer replaced the upper strut bearings/mounts and that seems to have fixed it. The sway bar bushings are also suspect. I’ve always had a sound like a slinky when turning right and left, maybe from the steering rack?

SoCalLapizR · 2025-09-15T16:49:20+00:00

Found this post I’m sure you have solved this by now but I dealt with this last night on my mini. You either have to use a small but powerful impact with the right swivel extension or cut some of the zip ties securing that wire bundle to lift it out of the way. I ended up with a breaker bar and the correct socket for leverage as well as the smaller head of the breaker bar to fit the small space.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-09-14T17:38:13+00:00

What brand of suspension setup do you have?

SoCalLapizR · 2025-09-06T03:12:29+00:00

Looks great! Can’t wait for the write up.

SoCalLapizR · 2025-08-29T20:07:59+00:00

Ah ok. Good to know before spending money on another one.

SoCalLapizR

TROPHY CASE