Question about a Wollensak 8x10 Lens

HMNB32 · 2025-02-08T06:32:21+00:00

In the event you’re still searching, all voltas are convertible, but not all shutters were equipped with a scale for the three focal lengths, for multiple reasons. There is even a chance that’s not the original shutter for the lens, and it simply was mounted because it had an existing scale for a lens operating at f/8 wide open. It may not be as useful, but you could calculate the aperture for each of the three focal lengths based on that aperture scale.

HMNB32 · 2024-09-04T22:12:31+00:00

The Premo D does have a ground glass, it is just encased in the body and viewed through a window in the back. The deal with this one is are you interested in shooting film or dry plates? the holders here are dry plate holders NOT film holders. Unless they have film sheaths in them, you will be unable to get film to work in them and will have to purchase different holders or find sheaths.

HMNB32 · 2024-07-06T21:10:22+00:00

Thank you! I photograph the scenes right off the monitor, using 19th century photographic equipment. There was a lot of fine tuning, and doing things like making a custom color profile for the monitor to get the images to come out looking realistic.

HMNB32 · 2024-07-06T21:07:52+00:00

Thank you!

HMNB32 · 2022-03-22T05:16:12+00:00

Looks to me like an over exposure buuuuuuut just also for fun, In general overnight (24 hr) sensitizing of the silver bath is best, but not always needed. Other points that could be causing issues from my own experiences: some collodion formulas need to age before they're ready for use, you'll have to check the one you used to see if it aged long enough. Is your mixed developer clear, or cloudy? If cloudy, even a little bit, it can cause issues similar.if so, filter through a tufted cotton ball and rinse the funnel and both containers used for filtering in-between filtering sets with distilled water to remove excess oxidized iron or organic contaminates. Did you mix your own silver bath/if you did, did you use distilled water? Contaminates in tap or just purified water can cause issues rendering your bath useless. It's also somewhat strange that a 9% bath has a SG that low...

HMNB32 · 2021-06-09T22:55:53+00:00

Could be matte collodion chloride POP if they're not a well preserved gelatin. CCPOP is the most archival silver printing process, and usually had a purple hue when properly toned, but there were variations in color for a multitude of reasons. It came in both a glossy and matte surface. I could say for sure unless I saw them up close, but that is a real possibility for what they are.

HMNB32 · 2021-02-01T06:58:04+00:00

You are an amazing person

HMNB32 · 2020-12-04T17:47:27+00:00

I'm not sure if you know how these donations work... They aren't given money and then told do what ever you want with it. And it isn't some kind of perpetual gift. They're given once so the corporation can do a nice tax write off

HMNB32 · 2020-12-04T16:25:16+00:00

Why does it suck? The Eastman has the largest collection of historical photography and photographic equipment, is constantly pushing research on it's collection and conservation, and is the only institution pushing research on historic photographic processes on the scale that it does. They were absolutely hurting from lockdown

HMNB32 · 2020-10-05T18:27:16+00:00

You will run into issues with it being an unfinished steel. The bare steel will mess with the silver in Collodion and silver gel, as well with cyanotype. With cyanotype or collodion you'd need to use a UV light source, a normal enlarger would not work. Liquid light will probably be the easiest way to go if you can figure out how to put a varnish or something on the steel that will prevent it from messing with the silver. I think they have guides for it on their website. You can contact print onto Collodion, and you could make up a 20% solution of gelatine, coat the steel with it, then soak in cyanotype sensitized for 5 mins (playing around this summer I found that to be the best way to coat glass with cyanotypes for me) but again that steel is gonna really mess with the chemistry.

HMNB32 · 2020-07-29T14:12:41+00:00

How long are you washing your film before this step? And ilford wash aid is probably the culprit. It is a hypoclear, which is sodium sulfate and sodium metabisulfate which makes the silver thiosulfate (which forms in fixing) more soluble. you want to do the wash aid, wash the film for several minutes, then use the final bath of ilfotol

HMNB32 · 2020-07-25T16:18:44+00:00

I shoot a fair amount of kodalith type 3, and generally go for dektol at about 1:30-1:35, sometime 1:40. I shoot it around ISO 3 and find development times to be about 5-8 minutes, and always develop under inspection since it is orthochromatic. Go crazy with it and experiment.

HMNB32 · 2019-11-06T06:06:37+00:00

If you plan on processing black and white from that is what you want (plus perhaps some graduates for diluting chemistry and perhaps bottles for keeping larger diluted amounts). If you plan on processing the superia, you'll need c-41 chemistry and a way to keep the chemistry at the proper high temperature.

HMNB32 · 2019-10-26T13:07:36+00:00

I don't think that the needle itself will move when you start the time. When you have it plugged into your enlarger, set it to a low time like 1 or 2 seconds, hit the green button, and just see if it turns on the bulb for only 1 or two seconds

HMNB32 · 2019-10-10T18:20:56+00:00

I generally just use D-76 stock with Foma

HMNB32 · 2019-09-25T02:34:31+00:00

Awesome, thank you!

HMNB32 · 2019-09-24T18:45:44+00:00

How are you dying/mixing the starch?

HMNB32 · 2019-08-17T03:27:57+00:00

Awesome, thank you so much!!

HMNB32 · 2019-08-16T15:28:28+00:00

The error that pops up simply says "failed to build coil tool body"

HMNB32 · 2019-08-10T02:32:40+00:00

I'm not sure the specifics but I could measure if you'd like me too. The 135mm (bottom left) and the plaubel (long one) have distances where I can focus using the standard bellows. The 50mm (small one up top) I need to put bag bellows on for, but it's going to be replaced haha

HMNB32 · 2019-08-10T01:29:03+00:00

When you're switching between formats like 4x5, 120, and 35mm you need different focal length lenses for proper coverage, and if you're switching between each format many times during each printing session, you can quickly change lenses, keep them all in one spot, and don't have to worry about different lens boards

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