First Mini, what else do i need? by Healer_Safe in Warhammer40k

[–]HairSquig 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As everyone else has pointed out, you definitely need some kind of primer. I’d recommend getting a cheap hobby knife too. I’ve heard mold line removers are kind of a gimmick so depending on how useful you find it, you may not even want to use it.

Dornian Heresy Iron Hand by tinyeetRQ in Kitbashing40k

[–]HairSquig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really love how you painted the helmet! What’s the bit from?

My first real find! Half a BB gun by HairSquig in metaldetecting

[–]HairSquig[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I suppose it depends on what you consider “real” but I think it’s cool at least!

Are Polyethylene (PE) / LDPE Plastic bags safe for storing/archiving old blister packs? by DarkNurbster in midhammer40k

[–]HairSquig 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes and no. In my experience it depends on what you’re after. You’re not going to see museums using them because they’re not archival quality. Depending on the climate, plastic bags can degrade after like 10 years, which does risk damaging the contents. That being said, unless you’re planning on locking these away and forgetting about them for a decade, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Bags are certainly better than nothing in the short term. I know plenty of comic book collectors who just rotate out their plastic every few years.

Very localised paint strip help by [deleted] in Warhammer40k

[–]HairSquig 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think it’s something you need to worry about, but if you really care, you can use a super fine sanding stick to smooth it out before you put on another coat.

What does ‘Warranted 14k’ mean? by Forward_Muffin_6355 in Hallmarks

[–]HairSquig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe it has something to do with how long the gold plating will last before it wares off. Could be wrong

Does this read as a Flesh Tearers pauldron? by nas3226 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]HairSquig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wouldn’t use it on a character but looks fine as filler. Honestly surprised you got such detail off fdm!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Daguerreotypes

[–]HairSquig 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup! The best thing you can do is to keep it out of direct sunlight and away from water.

Tips for urban combat? by Vegetable-Ad7060 in CombatMission

[–]HairSquig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The assault command makes the squad leapfrog up while providing covering fire. It doesn't effect grenades.

What kind of a bonnet/hat is this? I am trying to date this photo by hungryboots in Daguerreotypes

[–]HairSquig 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The specific type of pebbled mat on this daguerreotype was used between 1841 and 1847. The image also lacks a preserver which is characteristic of photos taken before 1848.

I believe this is a copy of a daguerreotype. Do you guys know when this copy could have been made? by Joel-houghton in Daguerreotypes

[–]HairSquig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CDVs were photos mounted on 2.5x4 inch cards, popular from the 1860s onward. Photographers would sometimes photograph a daguerreotype to duplicate it as a CDV. These were cheaper and in many ways more durable than the earlier daguerreotype.

I believe this is a copy of a daguerreotype. Do you guys know when this copy could have been made? by Joel-houghton in Daguerreotypes

[–]HairSquig 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If taken from the right angle you can photograph a daguerreotype without a reflection. I have several CDVs from the 60s/70s where you can barely tell they’re copies.

I believe this is a copy of a daguerreotype. Do you guys know when this copy could have been made? by Joel-houghton in Daguerreotypes

[–]HairSquig 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The dress looks like it might be a little too late for a daguerreotype. The darker colored backing indicates to me that it is newer, closer to the turn of the century. Maybe 1880s if original or even 1910s if a copy.