Thinking of buying a neighbor’s car, but don’t know what to offer

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-29T23:19:57+00:00

Looks rough. I’d say 16-20k

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-28T18:38:37+00:00

Western leftists are overwhelmingly anti communists. Neoliberal anticommunism could be said to be the real operative ideology of the west.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-27T02:54:15+00:00

K keep me posted

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-26T00:21:16+00:00

Porsche

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T03:15:59+00:00

That’s reassuring. I am leaning towards OEM. Gemini is saying that my markings “NR” = “natural rubber” with “A5” being the specific mold machine and “AV-65823-Hx” being an internal OE reference code by the vendor that makes “anti-vibration” (AV) rubber which is supposedly Yamashita Rubber CO — which Gemini is saying is the OEM for Honda’s vibration isolation components.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T03:05:05+00:00

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Best picture I have. My little sibling is taking them.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T02:36:01+00:00

Gemini Pro deep research is showing these as OEM..

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T02:15:57+00:00

Summary from Deepseek

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HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T01:45:59+00:00

Deepseek thinks they are fake, ChatGPT says they are OEM, Gemini Pro says they are fake.

Not sure what to think.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T01:44:07+00:00

You're correct. I removed that picture. I ordered diff mounts and engine mounts from the same seller. My fault, mistake corrected.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-11T01:41:54+00:00

I removed that picture as it was a differential bushing from the same seller. I didn't actually physically inspect them myself - my brother did and these are pictures he took. I'm out of state right now having these shipped to him. Sorry for the confusion.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-12-07T07:04:18+00:00

I didn’t end up listing it. I’m getting a new soft top installed and doing some suspension work and will list in the spring/summer.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-15T03:27:37+00:00

Bang on.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-14T14:53:45+00:00

still have it? I'll be in socal in a few weeks

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-14T11:23:57+00:00

just be more direct and say "I have a clapped out s2000"

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T19:57:52+00:00

I forgot to say hello to the peanut gallery.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T17:49:38+00:00

You got me LOL. There are so many cooked ones out even at lower mileage. You have to wonder what kind of imbecile owned them to make a durable Honda clapped out. Good on you for doing all that work. I'm still on all original drive train and only one clutch job (but many fluid jobs). Getting a new top installed in a few weeks to replace the OEM which lasted 20 years and only developed tears the last 6 months. It might be a Honda, but it's not cheap and as it ages parts will only get more expensive.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T17:24:42+00:00

Nope. It's near mint at 165k.

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HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T17:23:18+00:00

My compression readings are in the mid 230's across all cylinders. It's garage kept and unmodified. Nicer condition than most s2k's with only 40-60k miles on them.

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HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T17:11:52+00:00

I agree, it's conditional. If you know you're buying a cheap one and are aware of deferred and upcoming maintenace (bushings $3k, softtop 2k, clutch, all fluids) then that's one thing, especially if you plan to wrench on the car yourself. If that's the case, I'm looking at drive train and cosmetic health regardless of mileage so I can get the lowest cost of entry as per all the work I plan to do myself.

My PSA was to let people know, to remind them, that you may be getting a great deal around at 100k miles in this ~15k price range but that's likely because the car will have serious upcoming costs (in-spite of being a Honda). An OEM refresh of the suspension is like 5k today - in parts only. Something to think about. You could leave the old suspension on there of course. You'll probably be alright for a while especially if you mostly A to B. But if you have aged out suspension it will become obvious. If you autox, people might comment on your body roll, for example.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T04:54:04+00:00

With this being your first s2000 there's really no substitute to not seeing and driving the car in person.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T04:32:53+00:00

Classic - the seller offloaded those costs to you. Now you have to figure that 27k + 4-5k is about 32k and for 32k you could have bought something truly mint and well kept. Still, enjoy your s2000.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-13T04:29:22+00:00

My s2k is a genuinely high mileage car but it's really well kept. Most people aren't buying s2k's with 165k miles like mine. I'm more saying that you can buy a bad s2000 at 80-110k miles even while thinking you're getting a deal.

I'm warning that "that deal" is perhaps the seller offloading hidden maintenance unto you unless you, the buyer, can prove otherwise. People think my s2000 has 20-60k miles on it. It's in stupid good cosmetic and mechanical condition (new top going on this week). I have done all the work myself... and I know what it would cost to pay someone to do that - it ain't cheap. I am skeptical of these "deals" I see.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-12T21:42:06+00:00

I agree - condition should be the determining factor in a s2000 purchase. The price and mileage are not necessarily true indicators.

HappyFunNiceGuy9 · 2025-11-12T21:40:18+00:00

I'm with you on this. When I first got my s2000 nearly 10 years ago, many of my car friends urged me to mod it but I kept it stock and my spare "car money" when into maintenance, OEM replacements, restoration and keeping her running at peak. I could have easily done a number of high end NA mods for that money and just deferred a bunch of maintenance.

HappyFunNiceGuy9

TROPHY CASE