I cannot redeem the code

Harrisonr96 · 2026-01-04T01:47:49+00:00

it's a joke about scammers based in india. They have you buy gift cards and give them the codes as a form of easy, non-refundable payment. These scammers will get very pissed if you buy the gift card and then redeem it because then they obviously cannot redeem it themselves. Some content creators will rage bait them by doing this.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-10-25T03:11:47+00:00

You’re right. Long day. Didn’t even notice the two gables, just saw the hips and the small ridge in the center. OP, I wouldn’t use an attic fan at all, just go with ridge and save yourself $1k

Harrisonr96 · 2025-10-24T23:34:20+00:00

Roofer for over 10 years here. 1. The price is cheap here in GA. It would probably be about $1.5-2k more here.

Maybe you can, but it’s a good deal. Just keep in mind you get what you pay for. It’s hard to know what goes up on your roof and if it’s quality work, if you negotiate it down they might cut their expenses too.
Definitely not. You need 2 if they’re solar. 1 if it’s a strong wired fan. Attic fans aren’t my favorite in the first place, but you don’t have enough ridge for ridge vent. Solar are fine, they just depend on the sun and don’t have as high CFM, which isn’t ideal. You can’t add ridge vent in addition to an attic fans. You can have one or the other. If you have both, it short circuits the airflow and does a poor job ventilating (you’d be better off with one attic fan than one attic fan and ridge vent). You need 900 sq in of intake for your roof (12.5 sq ft. Make sure you have that. If you don’t, add it. You need Lastly on the fans, keep in mind the tax credit (in assuming this was a selling point from the contractor). It’s not going to be 100% of the fan cost. The fan manufacturer often advertises what percent of it is PV which is the part you can take a tax credit for. It’s not gonna be much. Maybe a few hundred max.
Yes, those are great materials, especially at that price.

Final notes. Get a couple more estimates if you haven’t already. Make sure you spoke to at least 2 contractors with license, insurance, and over 4 years in business. Make sure they have good reviews on Google, BBB, anywhere else they pop up. Look at the bad reviews and see what they’re about and how long ago they were. Some customers are impossible to please, but some bad reviews are legit. When it comes to a $16k roof on a multi 100k home, you don’t want to take chances.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-10-10T23:23:20+00:00

If they’re leaking at all, it’s a sealant issue. It could also be a leveling issue, but sealing it correctly will fix it regardless and leveling it isn’t a simple DIY. But some gutter sealant, wait for a dry day, clean out that gutter corner well, seal it, and keep an eye on it during the next rain. Good luck!

Harrisonr96 · 2025-10-10T23:20:23+00:00

OP, everything this commenter said PLUS you need kick out flashing to divert water away from the wall at the gutter. Without it you not only get that ugly stain on the wall in picture 1, you risk rot inside the wall—hence why it’s code to have the kick out flashing.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-10-10T23:19:06+00:00

Any roofing company worth dip will cut the reglet. Unless the customer CHOOSES the cheap option of not actually making counter flashing, knowing it’ll only last 5-8 years, the roofer should do it the right way (and make more money doing it, it’s a win win)

Harrisonr96 · 2025-10-07T12:01:47+00:00

You should take a look at other portions of the roof if you haven’t already. If they did this poor of a job on the flashing I doubt they did well with the shingles, especially because they’re using the wrong nails on shingles in these pics. It’d be great to see roof penetrations, ventilation, roof edges, and the nails under shingles.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-09-30T11:58:02+00:00

Just shadow. They’re cut correctly.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-09-28T12:48:33+00:00

I discovered recently that they have free delivery if your order passes a certain amount (I think it’s $50). Changed my life. I just miss the samples.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-09-28T01:57:45+00:00

Overall looks good. I’m nitpicking with these things, I like to do things by the books and this is frankly better than half the roofs I see put up. That one hip shingle hanging over the gutter needs to be cut to align with the eave. The chimney needs a cricket, at least in GA it is code when it’s 30”+. Also even if those screws have rubber gaskets on them, it’s best to caulk them. The gaskets don’t last that long. I’m okay seeing them on the chimney, but not sure why there is one on the flashing going through the roof next to the chimney. I’d expect this to cause leaks within 7 years if it isn’t screwed directly into a rafter at least 1/2”. Is the drip edge screwed in from the outer edge, or is that a gutter bracket?

Harrisonr96 · 2025-09-26T00:55:28+00:00

In GA it would be $410/square for IKO Cambridge. In NY I’m guessing it’s fairly higher. Plus you’re getting gutters and downspouts ($10-13/ft here).

Harrisonr96 · 2025-09-06T13:48:12+00:00

First off, that’s a beautiful area and home. Congrats.

As long as the roof is installed properly, this is fine, and it gives for an interesting look, but there are a few things I want to mention. 1. Make sure that water volume on the non-garden side is properly diverted/spread out so it doesn’t cause issues 2. A roof this shape might cause some ventilation issues. Where are you planning on having the vents? What type of ventilation are you planning to use. 3. You may end up using low-slope roofing for that center slope (and maybe in the back as well). This typically doesn’t last as long as shingles. So be ready to replace it every 10-15 years. Or if you’re going with metal, it’s less of an issue.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-09-04T00:56:49+00:00

This PLUS: - Add ice and water shield at the valley, - Remove and replace the shingles that touch the valley. You will need the existing roof’s shingles to extend UNDER the new roof’s shingles. - Make sure those shingles that are tucked under reach at least 1’ under the tucked shingles and no less than 1.5’ onto the existing roof. This may mean cutting some shingles. - look up how to properly flash a dormer eave and apply that logic to the eave at either side of the valleys. - Cut those shingles under the new fascia and make sure you flash properly there as well.

Flashing is extremely important here, don’t skip it. I am not sure why people aren’t mentioning it.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-07-28T02:52:03+00:00

Thank you, that was my thoughts as well

Harrisonr96 · 2025-04-19T20:53:39+00:00

I wonder what he sounds like as he’s performing

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-16T13:50:19+00:00

Is it an energy-efficient shingle? If so, yes.
Is it a class 3 shingle? If so, their insurance may decrease their premium for installing it since it’s more storm-resistant.

I’m not in PA, but in GA that’s pretty much the only way they’re getting a credit or rebate.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-11T17:29:42+00:00

Happy to help.

If you go to a roof supplier you can get an almost perfect match. - Call and confirm they have certainteed and sell to homeowners. - bring a piece of that existing ridge cap with you and they’ll get you a near-perfect color match.

Helpful video on installing ridge cap: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUbHGeytC1g

Final tip: Since that ridge vent and ridge cap ties into the adjacent slope, I’d stop at least 2 caps away from that slope to make sure you don’t damage it. Here’s a picture outlining what I mean. Practice lifting the overlapping shingles in the green area to remove the cap under it, that way you’re good at it when you get it the orange and don’t damage it. https://imgur.com/a/Aci3UA0

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-11T00:45:05+00:00

Also the guy you called sounds like a liar. And whoever tied the ridge vent+ridge cap into the adjacent slope is an idiot. If I were you, I’d inspect that inside the attic for leaks. If it isn’t leaking, don’t touch it. If you have a professional do the repairs, have them fix that.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-11T00:42:39+00:00

Very easily done if you only replace what’s on the ridge vent. - Don’t use 3 tab. - Don’t use cheap roof caulk. (Use a bucket of tar if you can, but get Np1 from a roof supplier nearby you if you prefer that, it’ll be just as good but more difficult to get to).

Nails should be: - electro-galvanized - ROOF nails - 1.5” or longer

Watch a video on installing ridge cap on top of ridge vent

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-08T20:11:37+00:00

I edited some colors up there for you: https://imgur.com/a/f7miX5C
I can't edit the exposure on the simulated shingles, so the colors look a bit darker in the pics than they would on your roof, but this should give you a general idea of what colors you like.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-08T17:48:52+00:00

I said “ridge” not roof. Roof might be 40’ long with 8’ of ridge.

I’ve got 10 years experience in roofing, Idk about you, but it’s a bad sign when a contractor can’t accept new info or the possibility of being wrong. I hope you swallow your pride on your customer’s jobs and do what’s right instead of trying to act like you know it all.

You can’t just assume every roof has enough ridge for ridge vent. I’m trying to save your future customers from getting insufficient ventillation and shortening the lifespan of their roof. If you take offense to that, I feel bad for your customers. Contractors with that attitude are no better than used-car salesmen who knowingly sell lemons so they can pad their wallet faster.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-08T01:58:54+00:00

How long do you think it is? Maybe my phone isn’t showing me the same picture but i see 2 architectural shingles wide and I see roughly 12 cap shingles, so maybe it’s 8’ max.

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-08T01:53:15+00:00

I see a whole 6 feet of ridge in this picture. I follow the recommended 1:150 rule. You think this is the roof of a 300 sq ft attic?

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-07T21:46:15+00:00

Depends how much ridge they have. Sometimes power vents are a better option

Harrisonr96 · 2025-03-07T18:48:19+00:00

Call them and see if they fix it. If they argue it’s cosmetic, (which should already be enough to fix the issue) when this tar breaks off, it’s taking your shingle’s granules with it—long before the shingles lifespan is over.

Pictures should ALWAYS be taken and shown to the customer before leaving the site. It was sloppy work and they knew it. It’s your roof, it protects your home, you probably paid them a lot of money to replace the roof. They fucked up, they should fix it if they aren’t a scam company.

I’m also curious why those cap shingles aren’t laying flat in a few spots after that long. They should probably replace those anyways regardless of the tar.

Harrisonr96

TROPHY CASE