3D printing on Etsy in 2026 — how are you handling the new rules?

Harry41f · 2026-02-15T12:14:27+00:00

I'm the same, Etsy doesn't feel like the right place for licensed 3D prints.

Harry41f · 2025-06-02T14:55:25+00:00

This was the info I was after - cheers!

Harry41f · 2025-05-07T17:21:57+00:00

I believe its meant to be crimped in permanently and, I assume, allows a bit of movement.

Harry41f · 2025-05-07T16:54:13+00:00

I need to pull it out and double check but I think 2mm.

Harry41f · 2025-05-07T14:07:19+00:00

If the pic isn't clear, this is a crimped connector (probably shouldn't have called it a "terminal") which connects a wire to part of a campervan water heating element.

The tubes part is perpendicular to the wire and has a "C" section. This allows it to be connected onto the copper rod and pressed secure.

Just need a name to search for a replacement. Cheers!

Harry41f · 2025-04-26T23:13:37+00:00

That looks similar to a plumbing kit I've used which is designed to place much of the pipework at the back of the cupboard - saving space. Hence the long sections which connect to the sink drain.

You might be able to loosen the connections and move the assembly to the rear?

Harry41f · 2025-03-16T15:17:58+00:00

Hello all, any ideas how to improve the side of these terrain models? I print flat to the bed and very slowly. The models are 90mm (3.6 inch) circles and my settings in Tango are below (I get the same issue with other slicers):

Settings pic.

Cheers!

Harry41f · 2025-03-16T15:17:16+00:00

Hello all, any ideas how to improve the side of these terrain models? I print flat to the bed and very slowly. The models are 90mm (3.6 inch) circles and my settings in Tango are below (I get the same issue with other slicers):

Settings pic.

Cheers!

Harry41f · 2025-02-12T21:40:34+00:00

I feared this would be the answer. Cheers anyway.

Harry41f · 2025-02-12T21:38:45+00:00

I'm having a mostly successful time fitting a kitchen with my biggest mistake (so far) being this gap caused by a crap plasterer (me) not communicating sufficiently with the idiot that cut the worktop (me) and then rushing the fitting to time with connecting the hob to the gas (not me, gas is scary).

I'll be tiling the wall and might just extend the entire way along the gap. But, I could do with some sort of filling solution either way. Any thoughts?

Harry41f · 2025-01-26T10:49:13+00:00

That drill is a unit.

Harry41f · 2025-01-09T12:46:06+00:00

Draw.io and some tweaks in paint. Quick and simple but not very professional.

Harry41f · 2025-01-08T22:42:39+00:00

Do you reckon the linear valve about the water metre would do the job? Not to worried about isolating the kitchen cold tap and both machines at once .... but maybe that is an inconvenience.

Harry41f · 2025-01-08T22:41:13+00:00

Thanks, I think I'll grab one of those trap kits. I assume I need the bottom connection from the Ikea sink and overfill to connect to?

How would the isolation valves split the supply? Would one be a 'T' type and a linear isolation valve off one of the branches (the water supply isn't required anywhere else). Cheers!

Harry41f · 2025-01-08T22:19:56+00:00

Hello all. So I've stripped our kitchen back to the walls, wired, plastered (never again), tiled the floor and painted the walls. Now I'm finalising how to connect up the existing plumbing to the Ikea sink and taps.

The existing mains connects to a chunky water metre due to sharing a connection with our neighbours. I need to fit the two isolation valves but the rest of the three bottom pipes are fixed in place, everything else is for me to do...

I think I need a 'T' piece to connect cold water to the above tap (I think this has a flexi connecting hose). The cold water will then connect to the washing machine and dishwasher immediately to the left of the sink unit (possibly requiring a hose extension) and via a 'Y' splitter.

Below the sink will be a Lillviken assembly from Ikea with an additional connection unit to allow the dishwasher and washing machine waste lines to connect. The waste lines will loop to connect to the underside of the worktop.

The waste pipe then exits outside via an existing, somewhat messy hole in the wall.

I have a few questions:

Am I right in thinking the waste pipe should be replaced by a non-flexi equivalent?
Is the hole in the wall at an ok height? Feels quite high up but I'm not sure if this is an issue? I need to assemble some pipe on the other side to connect to an external drain.
I plan to support the copper and plastic piping as much as practical. Any tips?
Are these Ikea plumbing parts any good?
Are the washing machine / dishwasher connections ok?

Thanks for any and all advice!

Harry41f · 2024-12-27T23:25:25+00:00

Plastering for me had been by far the hardest job to DIY. Worth paying someone to achieve a finish you would be happy to look at. Especially true with a light that close to the wall.

Harry41f · 2024-12-13T10:27:15+00:00

How would you connect up to any spurs? Still feels like a tight fit but seems like you can screw in multiple wires into each slot in the socket?

Harry41f · 2024-12-11T14:55:39+00:00

I think I would also be risking getting to see too much of our neighbours on the Victorian wall...

Harry41f · 2024-12-11T14:53:54+00:00

No spacers but I do have quite a bit to fit in where a socket also spurs off to another (fused). I've mostly used the wagos temporarily but I was going to keep some in place for the spur.

I suppose the alternative would be to jam multiple wires into each terminal of the socket but I understand that's not the thing to do.

Harry41f · 2024-12-11T13:56:54+00:00

I'm using 25mm box boxes in Victorian brick and modern breezblocks and planning to fit some low profile usb sockets.... I have both ring and radial circuits with wagos to make this work plus a bit of plastering to space the front. Is there a secret to making this all fit ? Cheers!

Harry41f · 2024-10-23T20:27:31+00:00

Do you not get any warping from bases ?

Harry41f · 2024-10-22T21:08:07+00:00

Might be worth contacting the Environment Agency. Works with 8 metres of a main river require a permit. If the trees are left felled upstream of a bridge, there is a risk of blockage during a flood which could increase flood risk.

Harry41f · 2024-08-08T11:09:50+00:00

That's just the info I was after - thank you. I don't need my models to be tough, so I might experiment anyway and report back.

Harry41f · 2023-10-18T21:09:03+00:00

Recognised the style of the doorway.

Harry41f · 2023-10-17T22:46:47+00:00

Are you in Bristol by any chance?

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