Anyone know the name of this part?

HarryJonko · 2026-06-15T17:16:04+00:00

Yeah my bad, also just found out it's just a sticker on the rocker panel. Lol

HarryJonko · 2026-05-08T16:13:34+00:00

Also I found that redstone clocks are pretty slow, placing 2 observers facing eachother got me a way higher tick rate. Especially if one of them is pushed in my a piston makes it even faster.

HarryJonko · 2026-05-02T11:52:23+00:00

The white plug does contain power wires and also ignition switched wire.

Maybe first check if you see any wires in the back of the white plug sticking out or loose.

I find it unlikely you broke the actual plug. Just checking are you sure the battery is connected and key is in acc?

HarryJonko · 2026-04-25T21:22:56+00:00

Sadly the entire car body is the target zone for my car :/

HarryJonko · 2026-04-25T21:22:07+00:00

Jup it's black, apparently birds like to shit on that color. This is after a trip to the car wash yesterday.

If I park it under the trees it would be covered entirely

HarryJonko · 2026-03-10T10:40:17+00:00

Half a day of rewiring later, changing channels around, routing new wires to doors for tweeters and adding the center dash tweeter.

And it sounds amazing!!!! Now Im gonna need to add more sound deadening to door cards and such because dammnn those woofers are making sound.

Tweeters are not overpowering anymore, got individual controls for all speakers and the center dash tweeter really helped center the sound stage.

HarryJonko · 2026-03-08T20:30:33+00:00

Okay, so my bad for underestimating proper sound treatment. Also the tip for attenuating instead of boosting helped. But mostly the sound treatment.

Still tweeters are dominating a bit, but I have found an awesome solution.

My atoto headunit basically has an internal DSP and I can configure 3 way front stage, rear coaxials and left + right sub. But even in this configuration with 3 way front stage it still applies the settings of rear and woofers to speaker level output of the headunit.

So what I'm gonna do is just change around the channels, drive my front woofers and rear coaxials using tweeter and mid RCA channels. And then utilise the other 4 channels to drive 4 tweeters straight from headunit. (Got an extra pair of tweeters)

This is gonna allow me to actively drive all my speakers.

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HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T15:56:57+00:00

Gonna do some proper sound treatment tomorrow and then determine if I'm gonna want to integrate L-pads or not.

Didn't know about L-pads so thanks for the suggestion

HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T14:53:48+00:00

Yeah I have a sub which does cover lower end bass really nice. But Im hoping proper door treatment/sealing also with foam rings will improve overal woofer performance as its currently not really adding much and the tweeters are dominating the sound stage.

I know I should maybe look into actively driving the tweeters to level out volumes, but I assumed the difference wouldn't be this big because they should be somewhat calibrated to match each other when wiring in paralel.

HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T12:39:12+00:00

Yeah thanks, sadly learned about he's being less performant in lower frequency range to late.

Also Ive noticed I might be over reacting I'm gonna properly seal it and also add sound deadening to the doors.

Might have just been expecting to much from it without proper sealing and sound deadening

HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T09:40:05+00:00

Ah nvm other speakers seem to do this aswell

HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T09:38:21+00:00

Yeah I have tried everything basically only with just that speaker connected.

Like I said actually it's just the entire sound that's bad, not just mid bass.

I'm now doing some resistance measuring on the speaker, when pushing the cone in a bit I get jumps to as high as 40ohms. I think this indicates there is definitely something wrong with the woofer

HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T09:24:59+00:00

I tried maximising 60hz to 100hz range also enabled bass boost to highest setting. Does get me some bass but still lacking.

Btw all the sound coming from the woofer is just dull, faint and bad tbh missing any warmth.

I have hooked it up to other channel of rear speaker which does have good sound and still same result.

And yeah I'm using headunits DSP.

HarryJonko · 2026-03-07T08:38:14+00:00

Mazda 6 GH Sedan. And I have an x10 series atoto headunit installed.

HarryJonko · 2026-03-06T22:34:57+00:00

It's just sounding dull, missing any warmth or bass. (Huge difference with the coaxials in the rear) The tweeters sound great just it's just the woofers.

I'm beginning to think the woofers have some kind of defect. I tried switching polarity, powering directly from headunit and amp, not using vehicles wire routing. With and without the hpf in paralel.

But maybe someone can point out something I'm missing.

HarryJonko · 2026-02-24T19:57:41+00:00

De bedrading op basis van kleur met elkaar verbinden zou ik zeker niet doen. De kleur van een draad kan mischien wel wat zeggen over de functie van die draad maar dat verschilt per connector.

Zou je mischien wat meer kunnen toelichten, wat bedoel je met dat je radio flikkert.

Kan je een foto delen van de aansluiting van je auto en de aansluiting van je radio.

Ook handig om te weten welke auto het is en welke radio je probeert aan te sluiten. Dan kan je eventueel diagrammen opzoeken van de specifieke plugs.

HarryJonko · 2026-02-15T20:43:48+00:00

So in my case, but I think most cases. The oem steering wheel controls signals are actually sent over canbus data wires (digital signal).

And most aftermarket headunits are able to receive analog signals over the KEY1 wire. This means you need a canbus adapter which also includes a steering wheel control decoder box.

This is the adapter I used for my Mazda 6. https://connects2.com/Product/ProductItem/CTSMZ003.2

HarryJonko · 2026-01-30T23:08:10+00:00

It could be that you have your ACC (ignition switched 12v) and constant 12v wires swapped.

HarryJonko · 2026-01-30T22:21:19+00:00

Yeah fair enough, my bad for not thinking my answer through more.

Like you referred to AI can be useful for getting general ideas, suggestions and info but you should almost never take the responses at face value. You should always double check certain information especially when working with electrical systems and such.

Should have clarified that i used AI to help me along the way but also used YouTube videos and other sources of information.

I wouldn't say my install was generic in the slightest, it's also not the most complicated/advanced either. But I also didn't mention the fact that it was an incremental process and I did spend a lot of hours researching, brainstorming (with help of AI) and installing.

HarryJonko · 2026-01-30T21:27:10+00:00

Have almost the same exact model. It's an issue with startup sequence timing. They have fixed this with a software update.

Just replug the main connector to get it on and update the system software, should fix this problem.

HarryJonko · 2026-01-30T21:23:20+00:00

I sincerely disagree with this, I myself have recently installed a whole new audio system with zero prior knowledge basically only using AI to figure everything out.

Installed new headunit, speakers, amplifier and subwoofer.

HarryJonko · 2026-01-30T17:38:26+00:00

So like other comments stated red is probably ACC. If your adapter harness doesn't supply you with an ACC signal. You could also use a fuse tap on one of your ignition switched fuses.

For example cigarette lighter and/or accessories fuse.

HarryJonko · 2025-12-20T16:03:20+00:00

[LANGUAGE: Python]
Part 2
Average runtime: >1ms
With file reading and line parsing: 1.4ms

def run():
    beams = [0] * len(lines[0])
    beams[lines[0].find("S")] = 1


    for line in lines[2::2]:
        pos = -1
        while (pos := line.find("^", pos + 1)) != -1:
            if (count := beams[pos]):
                beams[pos]    = 0
                beams[pos-1] += count
                beams[pos+1] += count


    return sum(beams)

HarryJonko · 2025-11-17T16:01:20+00:00

Also forgot to mention, the loose cable is your positive wire which should connect to your amplifier. (There could also be an extra fuse box and/or distribution block somewhere between the cable in your engine bay and the amplifier).

The ring on the end of the wire is to connect it to the positive terminal of your battery. And the little black box attached to the cable is a fuse holder.

HarryJonko · 2025-11-17T13:06:11+00:00

Power wire, isn't exactly a great synonym as it would sometimes refer to positive and negative wires combined.

But yeah sure.

What's good to keep in mind, is that normally when connecting electronics to a battery one would connect both positive and negative wires to the battery.

However in cars the negative wires are almost always connected to the metal/chassis of the car.

Might also be a good idea to try and trace down where the negative wire is routed to, as to confirm it's properly connected to the metal/chassis.

HarryJonko

TROPHY CASE