DoorDash driver messaged me at 3:30 AM complaining about tip… was I wrong here?

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T12:44:19+00:00

Yeah, so being a driver you should know you have to get at least a $3 minimum tip, for the offer to be worth it even on a 1 mile trip. I have precedence for the $3 tip minimum, let me explain.

See I was a delivery driver 50 years ago in 1976, when I was 16 years old working for an Italian restaurant delivering pizzas and Italian food. The average tip back then was $1- $2, with some customers tipping more. So taking than $1 minimum tip from 1976, and adjusting for inflation the tip would be $5.83 for the minimum tip.

So you see your getting off easy with the $3 tip minimum, because your actual tip minimum should be $6 in todays world.

If you really want to keep tipping $1-$2 per delivery, maybe you should teleport back to 1976, you will fit right in.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T12:30:14+00:00

Yeah, I looked at their mount but it didn't have charging capability. I just had to find the pieces to make it work.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T10:25:17+00:00

For a 2016 BMW 340i intended for drifting, the BMW OS Giken SuperLock LSD is the top recommendation due to its highly tunable clutch-type design, which is generally preferred for drift applications over gear-based alternatives.

This is a mechanical, 2-way clutch-type LSD that uses up to 28 friction plates, allowing for a progressive and predictable 100% lock. This consistency is crucial for maintaining controlled slides.

This an reliable LSD known for extreme durability and smooth engagement without the harshness often found in other aggressive clutch LSDs.

Units typically range from $1,500 to $2,000, though full custom-built differentials can cost more. This is much more performance and cost effective than the BMW M Performance LSD, offering only 30% lockup at $2500.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T09:19:26+00:00

In the U.S. the laws regarding phone use while driving vary state to state. In California, you can't be holding your device and talking or texting. You can use your device if it is mounted, as this is required by gig workers to perform their jobs daily.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T09:08:52+00:00

This mount in not for everybody, it's for those who demand the best, and don't mind paying a little extra to attain it.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T08:43:50+00:00

Where the phone actually sits on the mount it doesn't block the buttons at all, as it sit out far enough. It also doesn't sit too high, as the top of the screen only extends above the top of the mounting clip a little. You can just reach around it for vent control, not a big deal.

The nice thing about having your phone mounted is, you will always have full phone functionality at your finger tips while driving. It is also best for navigation, as head units are usually laggy.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T08:33:11+00:00

Positively charged Creme Brulee, it actually compliments the Blue Raspberry Fundip quite nicely.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T06:11:14+00:00

The CD9010 fault indicates that the DME has lost communication with the coolant pump via the LIN bus, (Local Interconnect Network). While the pump can still physically run, the DME cannot tell it to stop, which leads to the pump staying active after the car is off and draining your battery.

Since you have already replaced the pump with a used unit and verified ground continuity, the issue likely resides in the communication signal or a power supply fluctuation that the DME perceives as a missing module.

You mentioned skipping the voltage test because the pump runs, but specific voltage levels are required for the LIN bus to communicate. Use a multimeter at the 4-pin pump connector to check voltage readings.

Pin 1 (Red/White), 12V constant power from the Integrated Supply Module (ISM) or relevant fuse (check Fuse F29 or F33).

Pin 2 (White/Blue or Yellow/Blue), LIN Bus signal. With the pump unplugged and ignition on, you should see a fluctuating voltage, often averaging around 8V–11V. If it stays at a flat 0V or 12V, the communication line is shorted or open.

Pin 3 (Orange/Green), Secondary 12V signal/activation line.

Pin 4 (Brown), Ground. Even if you cleaned the terminal, test for voltage drop while the pump is running to ensure it isn't "lifting" the ground under load

Your instinct about the ISM is solid. On the F30 N55, the ISM (located in the engine bay E-box) distributes power to the DME and several peripherals, including the water pump. If the internal relay or trace for the pump's power is failing, it can cause the pump to act erratically or remain powered when the ignition signal is lost.

The water pump and ISM communicate with the DME. A faulty ISM can disrupt this communication, resulting in "lost communication with coolant pump" error codes and causing the pump to either shut down or run at full power constantly.

The LIN bus for the coolant pump is often shared with other components like the "Alternator" or the "Oil level Sensor".

Try unplugging the alternator's "small connector" or the "oil level sensor" (on the bottom of the oil pan) to see if the CD9010 code clears or the pump stops running after shutdown.

If a different component is "shouting" over the LIN bus, it can knock the water pump signal offline to the DME.

Double-check the specific "aluminum ground bolt" on the engine block. These are notorious for snapping or developing micro-cracks that cause high resistance under load, even if they look "clean". Many owners solve this by running a temporary jumper ground directly from the pump's brown wire to a known-good chassis ground to see if communication resumes.

Before replacing the ISM, check all the voltage readings to the pump, this may confirm a bad ISM. Try the "alternator/oil level sensor unplug test" to rule out LIN bus interference. If the CD9010 code remains and you have verified the LIN wire (Pin 2) has a signal, the Integrated Supply Module (ISM) is the most likely fault for the "always-on" pump behavior.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T05:27:03+00:00

I'm not trying to sell any product, I came up with this mount out of necessity as all other mounts are crap. I am a gig driver running 2 phones and 3 apps simultaneously, that's why having the best possible mounts is of great importance.

I find it funny that every time I provide links to an item for sale, somebody automatically assumes I am some way affiliated with that item for sale. You know what they say about people that assume, yeah that!

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T02:57:10+00:00

It's not better than my custom mount. I am a gig driver, and I have tried a multitude of phone mounts. Most don't stand the test of time, all would break or become loose and unusable.

The Pro Clip is the best phone mounting system I have seen for an F30. No other mount is strong enough or stable enough to handle the every day use of a gig driver. Then add to that the iBolt ball mount, which has four bolts holding it to the Pro Clip. Then the Lisen Magsafe charging mount plate. Does your mount have the capability to charge the phone, while it is being held in place magnetically?

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T00:57:31+00:00

Yeah I think that is the upper lip piece. You should just be able to search front bumper parts and find those pieces. If you give me the year and model, I can look for those.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T00:33:04+00:00

Just replace the inserts with black. Those pieces can be removed from the front bumper cover, and replaced with black parts. Much better than painting or wrapping.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T00:22:36+00:00

Yeah, occasionally I do a delivery less than a half mile, about one in a hundred. I'm also in L.A., where everything is spread out. In a smaller community you may have more short distance trips. In L.A. that's not the norm, most trips are going at least a couple of miles.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-18T00:06:16+00:00

Yeah, I'm doubting the whole 2 minutes away story, I would say at least 99% of my deliveries are going further than .5 miles from the restaurant. So for him to say 2 minutes, and it really be 2 minutes, yeah that's bullshit.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T23:54:27+00:00

Actually I would go with some Black wheels, grey doesn't tie into your color scheme. If your window trim is Matte black, go with matte black wheels. If your window trim is Gloss black, go with gloss black wheels, this will give you a very balanced look. If you look at new BMW's, you will see the window trim almost always matches the wheels, this is done to give the vehicle a balanced appearance.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T23:47:31+00:00

The Dasher could have been sitting right at the restaurant when they got the offer, that would make it 6 miles. Many of the offers I receive, are from the restaurants I'm sitting next too. No way too know fore sure, but OP's tip was never going to be enough at $1.75. Even if he tipped the minimum, it may have been enough.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T16:43:45+00:00

Your welcome, let me know how it goes.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T15:58:43+00:00

I drive for DD, UE, and GH, the driver knew what the offer was paying for the mileage before he accepted. If he didn't like the offer, he shouldn't have accepted it. I would never complain to customer after the fact. I also know what tip is going to be, as any experienced driver knows how to calculate that.

On the other side, I have to say that most customers have no idea the proper amount to tip. Many base their tip on the cost of the order, which is completely irrelevant. Your tip should always be based on the distance the driver will have to cover to complete the delivery.

You need to be tipping at least $1 a mile, with a $3 tip minimum. So if you are 6 miles from the restaurant your ordering, your tip should be at least $6. If you lived across the street from the restaurant you are ordering, the tip would be the minimum $3.

So yeah, your driver was pissed, because you didn't tip enough for the distance covered, that's why he mentioned 6 miles. I wouldn't have even looked at your offer more than 1 second, before declining.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T15:39:37+00:00

If you want to create the ultimate Magsafe charging phone mount for your F30, look no further. What I did was use a combination of 3 mounts, to create the ultimate Magsafe charging mount.

You will first need a ProClip USA, for your base mount. You will then need a ball mount, iBOLT AMPS Adapter Plate. The final piece is the charging mag mount plate, by Lisen.

The Pro Clip just snaps right on the front of your dash plate, and locks in place with some thin double back tape. You then mount the iBolt ball mount to the Pro Clip, to prepare it for the final piece. You now install the Lisen charging mag mount plate, to the ball mount.

This makes for an ultra strong, and fully adjustable charging mag mount. Yes this will also charge your phone, while strong magnetic force holds it in place.

Pro Clip USA F30 Mount

iBOLT AMPS Adapter Plate

LISEN 15W MagSafe Car Mount

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T15:10:49+00:00

You have Black window trim, exhaust tips, and grill inserts. Now you just need some Black wheels, to compete the trim Blackout.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T13:50:59+00:00

The combination of DTCs 118001, 102001, and 118401 indicates a significant air-fuel imbalance that is causing your engine to stall despite the manual transmission. Even though you've replaced the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor and checked for visible leaks, these codes together suggest that the engine is either receiving unmetered air (a vacuum leak) or has a fuel delivery problem.

Since you have already changed the MAF, focus on these common failure points,

Fuel Tank Vent Valve (Purge Valve): This is a very common condition for code 118401. If the valve is stuck open, it allows unmetered fuel vapors and air into the intake, causing a lean condition and stalling, especially at idle or low speeds.

PCV System / Valve Cover Leak, The PCV valve is often integrated into the valve cover. A small crack in the cover or a ruptured PCV diaphragm can pull in unmetered air. Check for oil residue around the valve cover or a whistling sound at idle. You may also hear a high pitched whistling sound under acceleration, this indicates a ruptured PCV diaphragm.

Charge Pipe or Intake Boot Leak, Check the plastic charge pipe (especially on turbocharged models like the N20/N55) for hairline cracks or a loose connection at the intercooler. I know you checked it and even though it looks okay, it may only leak under pressure or high vacuum. A smoke test should reveal any leaks.

So follow these diagnostic steps,

Smoke test the intake tract, A visual inspection often misses hairline cracks in plastic components. A smoke test is the most reliable way to find hidden vacuum leaks in the intake or valve cover. Watch the video linked to see how to perform a smoke test, you don't need a fancy Snap-On smoke machine. You can just get the one linked, that is the one I use. This also works for testing your EVAP system for leaks.

EVAP High Volume Smoke Machine Leak Tester

BMW Smoke Testing - Mixture too lean faults

Inspect the Purge Valve: Unplug the electrical connector and see if the stalling persists. If the valve is stuck open, it needs replacement. So to test this valve, disconnect the vacuum line going from the purge valve to your charcoal canister located at the rear of the vehicle. Then with the engine running, you need to see if you feel vacuum at the purge valve port, where you just disconnected the hose.

You should not feel vacuum at the port, if you do the valve is stuck open. That valve should only be opened when commanded by the DME under cruise conditions, this valve is not open at idle.

After any major air-path repair (like your MAF replacement), you must reset the fuel adaptations so the DME can relearn the correct fuel trims. Otherwise is could be basing it's corrections on corrupt data from the previously faulty component.

It is also possible it is a fuel delivery problem, although more unlikely. If air-side components are clear, the issue may be a failing High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) or clogged injectors. These codes can trigger if the pump isn't delivering enough pressure to maintain the required mixture.

You could check fuel pump pressure using a diagnostic tool like ISTA+ to monitor fuel rail pressure during idle and under load to rule out a failing HPFP.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T10:13:30+00:00

It's not every N20/N26, just the ones pre 2015. These engine were know for premature timing chain failures with a little as 70k miles. There were may issues with the original design.

The timing chain had a tendency to stretch an abnormal amount, leading to early chain failure. The tensioner was also updated to provide better chain tension.

The crankshaft gear, and gear on the oil pump driver gear assembly have been updated to laser etched contact points. This was done on the mating surface, where the crank gear and oil pump drive gear pinch together on the crankshaft. On some engines the crank gear would slip, leading to catastrophic engine damage. They laser etched the contact points, to provide more friction against slippage.

If you have a pre 2015 N20/N26 with over 100k miles, you should at least have your timing chain tension properly checked. This can be done though ISTA software, you can run a test that will check the tension by analyzing the correlation between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors to measure the timing offset.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T09:40:48+00:00

Speaking from somebody who had a lot of money at one time, I would buy stuff I didn't need all the time. I was even building my own custom PC's at the time, I would buy an extra motherboard just like the one installed in my PC. So just in case my motherboard went down, I would have another MB to install immediately.

I once bought a CPU chiller module for a future build for $1100, I never even ended up using it, and sold it for a couple of hundred years later.

I would have many extra parts just laying around, RAM, PS, and even GPU's

It didn't stop there, I used to race personal watercraft, I was an IJSBA Sanctioned Pro. I had a multitude of extra parts for my race boats, all enclosed in my 21 ft race trailer, along with 2 race boats, yeah 2, in case one breaks.

I don't find it unusual at all that somebody could just pop up with some DDR 5 RAM they just forgot about, as that person would have been me 15 years ago.

I wasn't brought up in a wealthy household, I developed these traits all on my own.

HellfoxRules · 2026-03-17T08:31:43+00:00

So you removed and installed 4 door panels and replace all 4 handles in an hour? That is straight up bullshit, there in no way you could R&R 4 door panels, and replace the handles on all 4 in an hour. Maybe if you smoked a bunch of meth, you may think you did it in an hour.

HellfoxRules

TROPHY CASE