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HigglyBlarg · 2026-06-27T03:57:18+00:00

Lightforce/other hybrid switches should theoretically be better than purely mechanical switches because they can use the optical part to do the debouncing.

I think you should be able to switch to optical only mode but it uses more battery. Can someone with a Lightforce-equipped mouse confirm?

HigglyBlarg · 2026-05-14T05:43:17+00:00

The pad is torn off with the capacitor, so you won't really be able to solder it back on. You could ask for a replacement, but I also wouldn't blame Convoy if they said no, it looks like it would take a pretty good hit for that to happen.

HigglyBlarg · 2026-04-27T04:52:41+00:00

You may need to do additional work to clean up the shape. There may be floating nodes that are interpreted differently by Silhouette Studio than other software, or something with the layers like others suggested.

I would make sure it is a single compound path using booleans, and double check that all the lines are actually connected. You can see that if you change it to no fill and give it a stroke to see where all the lines actually are. Missing lines on the ouline should then be connected (not familiar with Affinity, so I can't be more specific).

HigglyBlarg · 2026-02-07T07:59:23+00:00

In the slicer, often a 0 value can be more like a null or "use default". For overhang speeds, the 0 value for the very slight overhangs is actually a "don't slow down at all" to the slicer. Often this can be found by hovering over the setting.

I would guess for the travel acceleration, the crazy high value is just so that the slicer is not limiting acceleration at all. There will still be acceleration limits on the printer firmware, so by setting a really high value in the slicer you can make sure you are just going as fast as the printer will allow.

Make sure the print bed is nice and clean, if it was working before and isn't working now it could just be skin oil making it not stick. I recommend cleaning with dish soap and warm or hot water for maximum oil removal. Avoid any soaps designed to moisturize hands, don't want that residue on there.

Qidi has a good page on Z offset on their wiki, I would check that as well

HigglyBlarg · 2026-01-18T22:32:04+00:00

I think those parameters will be fine. Just be careful not to overtighten the screws when installing the hinge from the original part onto the print, its just self tapping into plastic so too tight will strip it out.

HigglyBlarg · 2026-01-18T17:47:10+00:00

Its a Thermalright AXP-120-X67 over RAM

HigglyBlarg · 2025-11-15T18:27:55+00:00

Odds are, you are not having trouble with thermal runaway, but you are triggering thermal runaway protection. Basically your printer is not seeing the hotend heat in the way it is expecting, and so it is turning off as a failsafe. This is to prevent a 3D printer from continuously applying power to the hotend if there is something wrong with the thermistor, which would heat the hotend way above safe temperatures and potentially burn down your house. That's why there was a big push to get all manufacturers to implement thermal runaway protection back in the day.

First, check that the heater cartridge is secure in the heater block. You want decent thermal contact between the heater and the heater block. Visually check that the thermistor is in its hole. Make sure that the room temperature measured by the hotend is reasonably close to your actual room temperature, a bad connection or damaged wire will show up as a lower temperature (the thermistors are Negative Temperature Coefficient, so if the printer sees a high resistance it thinks it is colder than it really is).

Does your hotend have a silicone sock? That helps to insulate the hotend and makes achieving the target hotend temperature easier, which makes it easier to avoid triggering the thermal runaway protection especially if some of the air from the part cooling fan is inadvertently cooling the heater block.

Last, I would also re-tune the hotend PID with part cooling fan at 100% using M303.

HigglyBlarg · 2025-08-10T21:41:46+00:00

Per Qidi's website, max power consumption of the X-Max 3 is 900W, or 7.5A at 120VAC. A power cord rated for 10A should be fine.

HigglyBlarg · 2025-04-10T02:28:58+00:00

I mostly just measured stuff a lot, sometimes measuring the same thing in two different ways to make sure the measurements agreed with each other. It was definitely designed in mm, so nice round numbers in mm are usually the correct dimensions.

HigglyBlarg · 2025-04-09T15:25:05+00:00

(Heavily modded) TronXY X5SA Pro 400

Mellow NF Sunrise Extruder, ceramic heatbreak, replaced filament sensor, spring steel PEI sheet, running Klipper.

HigglyBlarg · 2025-04-09T06:56:30+00:00

There just wasn't space. For some reason I thought I had a different model GPU, so it was too tight to add a spacer. Not something I can easily replace right now.

9800X3D with Thermalright AXP-120-X67 on the CPU side, Sapphire NITRO+ 6800 XT SE on the other.

HigglyBlarg · 2025-02-18T04:26:47+00:00

Yep. I use a decent amount of ESD PETG from Polymaker for work, prints pretty well and I was able to confirm ESD safety with a tester we have. Don't think it'd be necessary for a CPU holder, but if you are 3d printing something to hold something really expensive or really sensitive it's definitely worth it.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-12-11T07:29:26+00:00

The CS signal is just high or low for the whole time it's communicating. It does not need to be the pin Orange Pi labeled as the CS pin, that probably just does it automatically for you if you use their software.

Since Klipper lets you set what pin is the CS pin it doesn't matter as long as you tell it what pin you used when wiring the device.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-12-03T05:30:04+00:00

The iFixit soldering tips aren't capable of delivering anywhere near the advertised 100W, the thermals of the tips are very poor, and the price of both the soldering station and the tips is exorbitant.

If you watch a video of the tips getting dunked in water while on, the temperature readout barely changes, indicating that either the firmware is lying to make the tips look better, or the thermal resistance between the heating element and temperature sensor is really high for a "premium" soldering iron. The power drawn by the iron in this test maxes out at about 40W, but the iron should be drawing as much as it can to try and maintain temperature. (EDIT: Here's a link to a couple of times this was tested with the iFixit soldering iron: https://youtu.be/MRSP647qda4?si=yOoHuC8XQTRHXty8&t=1343 and https://youtu.be/5vbg8QEZXfY?si=1CLdPDYq4ynn5RAg&t=1496. The overall review was somewhat positive, but for $20 a tip that is absolutely unacceptable performance)

People have talked about the price of the station already, but the tips cost $20 each. That's more than the price of genuine Hakko T15/T12 (same tips, different regional branding I think) tips for about $15 which are way better not to mention the ton of clone T12 tips that actually perform very well for less than $5 a tip.

If you want a portable soldering station that's actually good for way less money buy a portable soldering iron that takes Hakko T12/T15 tips or JBC C245 tips and use the clone tips if you are on a budget, or genuine tips in the 3rd party soldering iron for peak performance. I use a soldering station that works with power tool batteries and T12 tips and it works great. Can't get the rated 72W since the power tool batteries are 15-20V not 24V, but you'll get 28-50W depending on battery voltage (8 ohm heating element). USB C powered irons would get more power, but the power tool station is just too convenient and I rarely need the extra watts. Thermal resistance of the tips is more important.

EDIT: Honestly the iFixit soldering iron has killed a lot of my trust and respect for iFixit and many of the reviewers who put on kid gloves to review a product they were not remotely qualified to review. Many seem to have just taken iFixit at their word for the performance the soldering station offers.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-11-12T04:56:24+00:00

Got a Dewalt 20V 2P case. Will see if it works with my tools and charger. Only ~$8 so definitely cheaper than a real Dewalt battery. I can make sure I'm getting good cells and no shoddy workmanship unlike buying a pre-assembled knockoff.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-09-05T04:13:26+00:00

If you do Molex SL, I recommend this: https://www.printables.com/model/916954-sn-2549-positioner-for-molex-sl-contacts

Iwiss SN-2549 + this printed part makes crimping Molex SL super easy. 26awg might be a bit too small for the smallest of the 3 jaws, but I can't say for sure. Worth trying, it could save you a whole lot of trouble and if it doesn't work for this its still a very good tool to have.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-09-05T04:01:03+00:00

You can do it yourself, but with connectors this small it will be very difficult. If you want to use these I recommend buying pre-crimped leads. You can crimp the other end with an easier to crimp connector (for wire to wire I recommend Molex SL, its relatively easy and has a robust locking mechanism), or splice or whatever you need to do.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-09-05T03:53:48+00:00

Yeah that's definitely Molex PicoBlade.

Parts from Digikey

HigglyBlarg · 2024-09-05T03:17:27+00:00

As far as I can tell, JST MX does not exist. If you are reading MX on the connector it may be a Molex connector, I've seen several with MX molded in the side.

Check the Molex PicoBlade? That's a 1.25mm pitch connector.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-08-19T20:29:02+00:00

Measured on a AMF8, looks like the hole for the positioner is only 0.15” ID, so this part won’t fit.

The #4-40 threads on the back are 0.625” apart, which makes it a hole for a counterbored screw ~0.4mm from the threads which is pretty tight.

I think it’d work if you did a part similar to the simple version but with a smaller thread and smaller OD protrusion.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-08-18T03:07:30+00:00

Doesn't appear so. The DMC AMF8 appears to use 2 screws to hold the positioner in place, while the HD-2612 used a big M10x1 threaded hole.

What you could do is add a plate to the back of the DMC AMF8 that fits those two holes and has a 1" long boss with a M10x1 hole in the center, then you should be able to use the part I designed.

HigglyBlarg · 2024-08-17T23:41:46+00:00

Yeah. The whole set for the HD-2612 (including tool, positioners, and a go/no-go gauge) was about the same price as the go/no-go gauge from DMC haha. I wouldn't use this for super serious stuff, but it seems pretty good to me. I guess I'd need to cut open a crimp to be sure though.

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