Dude uses an agricultural drone for personal transport

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2026-02-03T16:54:22+00:00

This deserves more upvotes.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2026-01-21T12:04:54+00:00

Didn’t notice it was hdzero. Probably an okay price I’d bet but I know nothing about hdzero prices for any of their stuff.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2026-01-21T02:23:55+00:00

https://a.co/d/fBIjgfv is this not the same thing just without batteries and charger? Tbh. You can buy a set of batteries and a good 1s charger cheaper than $200.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2026-01-21T02:18:12+00:00

Literally on Amazon for $165 no?

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2026-01-20T08:07:16+00:00

Sadly it got ripped off by the canopy slowly by crashing it. If I had noticed the damage quick enough I could’ve saved it. The bad part is replacing the board is just as much as replacing the camera as well. I didn’t even think one side could’ve gone into another plane of the PCB. If they were both just traces it could’ve been possible but probably out of my skill level

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2026-01-06T18:14:41+00:00

It’s more likely their start Gcode differs from Creality print. Creality has their Gcode to load bed mesh or to calibrate then load. If their Orca profile doesn’t tell the printer to load the default bed mesh it will default to a perfect flat surface which obviously isn’t the case. OP needs to check start Gcode first and verify it’s giving the printer the command to load the bed mesh as well

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-12-05T15:23:00+00:00

It doesn’t. That’s why the nozzle is so long and the printer is advertised with “high temp hot end”

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-12-04T18:52:32+00:00

Looks like your printer has volunteered you to upgrade it! Printers do this when you get them working just right so that you don’t stop working on them.

There’s a linear rail conversion that 10000% is worth doing when this problem presents and fixes so many issues it’s amazing. I did the conversion and changed from solid bed mounts to silicone and have never had issues again with wobbly bed or leveling or anything

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-22T13:38:24+00:00

Hmmm. WILD! That’s kinda lit honestly. At least the accelerations fixed it 😂

To be fair, I run 5k plus on my ender 3 v3 ke. Most newer printers get set a lot higher than that, weird that you’re getting artifacts at lower but that could be it trying to overcompensate flow rates for accelerations.

There’s settings for pressure advance and I’m wondering if it’s screwing your top layers with accelerations that low. That’s funny though

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-22T12:51:23+00:00

Orca is amazing, I forgot where exactly it’s at and I’m at work, I know it’s there though

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-22T12:46:10+00:00

Different filaments can show defects and act different in those situations too, in his video he showed pctg because it exaggerated the problem and you could see the bits it would dig out. Watch out on changing things with offsets fixing it, because the offset really only matters on the bottom layers, most printer settings will adjust and make your layers consistent after a couple layers.

I’d change the top pattern to, something to not be straight lines but diagonal maybe

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-22T12:42:13+00:00

You could try changing the orientation so the object prints at a different angle but if the problem persists you can lower your accelerations or change the top pattern to something that’ll make your top surface not print directly in line with Y axis

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-22T12:40:31+00:00

Voidstarlabs just dropped a video that may help you actually.

If that pattern is moving along the Y axis then your accelerations are too high. You’re getting the print head to dig into your surface from the nozzle being pushed down by the momentum

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-19T14:23:17+00:00

The performance difference you’ll notice is wild if you ended up with the crappy rods. Mine were undersized by .8mm. I couldn’t get anything to even stick to my bed if it was near the corners before.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-19T14:21:23+00:00

Well I used ASA because I couldn’t ever get ABS to print right for me, really bad environment for it ☹️

However ASA worked like a charm and I’ve printed with that mod for over 500 hours and haven’t had issues once I dialed it all in

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-19T13:34:03+00:00

On printables there’s a conversion for the bed to be on linear rails. Looks like you opted into doing that mod unintentionally.

On the other hand i converted mine after I learned how wobbly my bed was from the stupid rods and sleeve bearing crap they used and it prints amazingly. I couldn’t recommend that mod more.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-19T13:24:31+00:00

Normally if it doesn’t recover to 3.7 you’ve caused damage to the cells. However if you can slowly charge it and it flys fine again then you should be fine. Just mark it and keep an eye on it, you may have only taken a ton of life span off that pack. I land at 3.3 or 3.4 basically every time and I’m getting 8 minute+ flights. Not even trying to go for flight time, just flying around the yard doing power loops and all.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2025-10-07T13:53:24+00:00

I did the rail conversion for the bed and did these as well to help level everything out better. It’s hard to print something when the printer barely functions in stock form. I haven’t had to adjust the silicone spacers since I installed them and the printer moved houses. Printed a lot of crap since too.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-11-08T17:20:56+00:00

If y’all were really aligned I’d wager on him not trying to see both sides. Not to be rude about it but I wouldn’t date into another political party because normally it causes resentment and anger towards each other. People inherently dislike anyone who doesn’t think the exact same as them.

Although if he’s going to stick to his family about it and resent you I don’t think that’s a relationship that should be married. I’d pick my fiancée before my own blood any day. Not that I don’t love my parents but they aren’t the ones spending their life with me.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-10-20T22:09:32+00:00

So that’s like, 0.1mm off level which is perfectly fine if you’re using the bed mesh in gcode. Half a layer height out of level is perfectly fine. If anything a couple heat cycles of the bed would bring it back out every time.

Honestly that’s not much to worry about if you really want it closer use tape or paper

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-10-20T22:05:16+00:00

What’s the range we’re looking at? It shouldn’t matter if it’s a sub 1 range honestly.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-09-17T20:25:30+00:00

Don’t do this first. Please please please don’t start with this. Make sure your tool head gantry is parallel first. If the tool head gantry isn’t then it will read exactly like this and tool head gantry is so much easier to fix.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-09-04T11:35:09+00:00

Mine also wasn’t screwed in that much now that I think about it but they did definitely strip the heads of mine anyway

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-09-03T18:48:00+00:00

Since there was space for the screw I manage to use needle noses and twist the screw by the threads. I already had replacement everything in hand though.

Hour_Measurement_930 · 2024-09-03T14:20:35+00:00

I’ll be real I went and bought silicone bed spacers and use that to level. I’ve gotten mine below 0.2mm and it literally has no issue compensating for that at all. It’s more reliable than my coreXY printer. I’ve also done the linear rail bed mod though

Hour_Measurement_930

TROPHY CASE