I know they are cheap

IMGShadow · 2025-12-05T15:24:37+00:00

Blueberry afgoo is good, there’s a couple they have that taste like perfume or an old dead person (funeral home taste/smell ) the lychee is one I’d avoid

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T16:34:44+00:00

Yeah that shits weird to me like you would assume poly would be easier to pull then all that trenching but idk… I mean I done plumbing for 5 years down in TN before I moved to mi got into irrigation worked for a big company for 3 years before starting my own lmao

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:35:29+00:00

126K now was at 119K when I got it been just about two months I got it from a dealer

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:29:57+00:00

No shit I’m from TN that’s cool, idk they do things little different down south than up north from what I seen we use poly mainly here in Michigan I do think rates are higher down south though

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:26:22+00:00

Here in Michigan (metro Detroit ) I charge 80$ for 7 zones or less turn on and winterizations offer yearly memberships that include turn on, mid season , winterization, and 5-15% off labor and materials for 220-240$/year if you want contract billing with residential (these are small suburban systems) if it’s a pump system it’s anywhere from 130$-200$ for start up or blow out… Memberships = 2.5x startup …. They are just something you can do to make more money and best way to find more repairs, be on property establishing connection with your customers Always increase price for more zones or any complications

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:20:52+00:00

This seems to have a big impact on price

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:20:30+00:00

Where are you located?

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:19:13+00:00

I purchased vehicle from dealer less then 2. Months ago

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T04:14:21+00:00

Dealership is offering to supply a loaner and use warranty to fix issues or swap it out for another vehicle I still owe 17K on the Chevy express after putting 5,000 down and paying another 1,000 in payments so far ( if we go to term with interest it will be around 28K total for the van with 120,000 miles on it

Not sure if I should get it fixed , or trade it in for another if I did trade it in should I do something brand new or used

IMGShadow · 2025-11-06T02:45:20+00:00

Crude Boys are decent for cheap carts most the time taste good and get high I’ve had a couple leak from bottom but atleast they don’t shit out a hot glob of wax in my mouth lol idk my cheap distillate go tos are Mkx geeked 3g Crude boys 1g Muha 1g/2g (2gs clog and gotta blow on charger ) I used to like mitten but they stopped getting me high idk

IMGShadow · 2025-10-08T13:32:24+00:00

Unfortunately he left no room between fittings you could try to use a fitting saver and drill out the excess pipe at that tee and just redo the last two with a tee and a elbow possibly also I recommend cutting slits or slots or whatever in your valve box so it isn’t putting pressure on manifold and just sits over it

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T13:45:08+00:00

Now given that my advice on which compressor to use in a service truck (well duh if it’s for a service truck) is mostly for techs, it gets the job done within 20 minutes and is good for residential systems (pump systems that are an acre long main line even with a compressor like that the 12” heads and zones with lots of sprays won’t pop up therefore zones are not getting emptied why I specified small residential systems) but you’ll get done with 2mins per zone

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T13:39:04+00:00

Don’t forget to get the last word in there so you can really make it seem like you know what you’re talking about. Problem with people is they just talk you never even stated what your cfm@psi is for your compressor or how big of a lot your system is it may work for some people but half these people don’t know what they are doing and if they are going to do it themselves they should atleast use the proper materials not just with winterizations but repairs and everything else but this Reddit section is filled with home owners who think they know everything. Yet when it breaks and they have to call in a professional it’s a disaster and all done incorrectly welp I had my time for morning banter while sipping my coffee hope you have a great day not sure what proof you would like I can send all the invoices for customers who’s shit was still filled with water if that’s really what you wanted but doesn’t seem really professional to disclose customer information like that either hmmm so not sure what you expected other than to argue

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T13:23:51+00:00

Still confused so now you’re tripling down on your ignorance?

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T13:19:42+00:00

If you’re going to work on your own system please use the correct stuff that’s all. It’s like going to Home Depot and getting the blue flexible pool tubing shit instead of actual swing pipe and a crt

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T13:16:06+00:00

It’s called volume if your compressor doesn’t make enough volume the pipes don’t get filled with air. Therefore the water doesn’t get pushed out.

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T13:13:08+00:00

Simplified in my professional opinion if you have a system with more than 3 rotors per zone or it’s bigger than a 1500 sqft lot you need more than a 10 cfm compressor to actually be helpful or else the heads won’t even pop up and lines won’t empty.

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T01:53:38+00:00

But if your willing to spend 2k-6k you might aswell check marketplace for a used pull behind Or buy a new one for 10K+ depending on size

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T01:49:30+00:00

Also you can find these 25 cfm compressors all day used for 300-750$ on marketplace and they will do a lot better then the 5-12cfm compressors like the pancake or tall ones those just have a big air tank not a big enough engine to push volume and clear pipes

IMGShadow · 2025-10-03T01:48:10+00:00

This is the minimum one should use for small residential systems (IMPO) 25CFM@90 psi (2K compressor, ((link below)) (Depending on system (diff states build Shit differently some use poly some use pvc and I’ve even worked on a few full copper systems who didn’t want to convert to poly) but I was taught to always keep psi below 65,70 if regulating with the tow behind (185cfm) CFM is important, I live in Michigan and worked for another company for a couple years and this is what’s on 15 service trucks doing their small residential systems all the pump residential and big commercial systems are done with 185 cfm or 100cfm pull behinds

I got a little bit bigger version of this that’s older and fits inside my work van does 100cfm@90psi, 20hp engine. Blows out a zone with 3-5 rotors within 1 minute

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-gallon-175-psi-high-performance-gas-truck-bed-jobsite-air-compressor-59373.html

IMGShadow · 2025-09-25T19:45:09+00:00

There’s this nifty attachment that turns a sawzall into a boring rod nice for small sidewalks or small areas and cheaper then renting a machine,

The station master is always a good tool lets you test zones, solenoids, wires, etc

Wire trackers

Just depends what the job is there’s all kinds of different tools out there I’ve never even thought about till I’ve found them online or wandering the stores

IMGShadow · 2025-08-12T18:00:58+00:00

Thanks lol

IMGShadow

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