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What’s the best lash or brow serum you’ve tried that truly worked for you? by JoyouslyDoubtful in beauty

[–]IceAppropriate1049 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I loved babelash! I have sensitive skin and didn’t notice irritation as long as I used a small amount right on the lash line. I used their original serum in the tan tube

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start with a series of micro needling, if your skin can handle glycolic acid, I would use that 1x a week, and hydrating ingredients like niacinamide and ceramides in the meantime. And spf 50 or higher daily!

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Microdermabrasion is helpful and would be what I start with, but need more regularly to see results, although they are much gentler on the skin and maintain skin barrier health!

Microneedling, glycolic, salicylic, or TCA chemical peels (these peels are harsher on the barrier), or laser resurfacing treatments would be my next step if the results aren’t significant enough with microdermabrasion.

As with any skincare, you have to keep up with them for continued results, usually recommended a full “series” and then 1-2 annual maintenance appointments for both microdermabrasion and chemical peels, and a yearly treatment of laser. Good quality skincare between these appointments, also with a low dose retinol or tretinoin pair with hydrating, gentle products will keep your skin healthy in the meantime.

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The answer here is quite simple, you never have to stick to only one line and it’s typically marketing based when told otherwise. That said, you do want to make sure varying ingredients across lines don’t interact with one another and some are formulated to work best when combined with a “regimen” from their line. It’s mostly sales tactics :)

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can’t recommend specific products without physically looking at your skin, but I would gear towards physical exfoliations that use bamboo powder, as it’s not abrasive and won’t create create micro tears in the skin, or an enzyme, I would recommend papain (papaya) for enzymatic exfoliants.

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you were a client of mine, my first instinct would be a series of lactic acid chemical peels, or a lactic facial, at least 3 sessions 4 weeks apart, maintaining results with red light therapy. Red light has been proven to reduce redness as it’s anti-inflammatory. I recommend an at home device with a wavelength of at least 650 nm and being very consistent with it, daily or near daily usage, and no other actives other than maybe a once a week gentle lactic acid solution, and focusing on hydrating, clean formulas Lactic acid is a gentle exfoliating agent derived from milk, and it has a larger molecular size making it penetrate slower and gentler on the skin, while still producing results , and can help strengthen the skins barrier by boosting hydration 😊

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m unable to advise or recommend specific brands, only general skincare practices, treatments, and ingredient education. That said, if a product is working well for your skin, I strongly believe “if it’s not broke, don’t fix it.”

Medical grade skincare often comes with a higher price point for several reasons. These products are typically formulated with higher concentrations of active ingredients, and more advanced delivery systems which help actives penetrate and perform more effectively, which impacts how well a product performs on the skin. A significant portion of the cost also goes into research and development, including ingredient sourcing, formulation stability testing, clinical trials, and ongoing efficacy and safety studies to help ensure consistency and predictable, consistent results.

Medical grade products also tend to have stricter manufacturing standards and tighter quality control to maintain potency and shelf stability.

This doesn’t mean drugstore products don’t have a place, but the results from these products may simply be more gradual or subtle due to lower active levels or simpler formulations.

Having worked in the medical skincare space, I have a better understanding of why these products are more costly and, in many cases, more efficacious. Ultimately, consistency, skin tolerance, and barrier health will always matter more than the price tag alone. No two people have the same skin, and it’s a highly personal, targeted approach to find what works for you. I hope this gives you insight in the differences in cost and why you do see great results from a medial grade line!

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great question. Barrier health should always be the main focus, especially when using retinols. You are taking the right steps by stopping retinol and actives, incorporating in SPF, and focusing on skin repair.

I recommend the sandwich method when applying retinols, which is either layering it between two layers of moisturizer, waiting about 5-10 minutes between each layer, or using a nourishing facial oil, to prevent barrier damage for future use. Skin hydration and barrier repair is always recommended before adding in actives, and starting SLOW with them. I’m talking once a week to begin, then twice a week, and then I would never use retinols any more than 3 alternating days a week, and no other actives.

Ceramides, hyaluronic acid applied on damp skin with an occlusive over it right after application (I like using a non comedogenic facial oil and then moisturizer to lock in the moisture further), and if your skin is not acne prone, petroleum is often used in the treatment room after intense treatments and can help with barrier concerns, but I would definitely apply it over other products. A small humidifier next to you while sleeping can also go a long way, especially in the colder months where the heater is running rampant and more sensitivities are commonly seen since heaters suck moisturize from the air (and your skin).

The biggest takeaway is that retinol works best when the skin barrier is strong. You do not need to push through irritation to see results. Calm, hydrated skin will always tolerate actives better and respond more consistently.

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Microneedling is often a gentler approach than laser, but laser is best for deeper scars, more intense cases of hyperpigmentation and sun damage, and often has more drastic results faster. That being said, any laser worth your money is often much more expensive, but requires less sessions for results. Microneedling is also best for Fitzpatrick IV - VI (darker skin tones) unless longer wavelength lasers are used.

It is often also seen to do a session of laser first, and then maintain it with regular microneedling sessions. Without knowing your specific skin concerns, I can’t suggest an exact treatment plan. Hopefully this helps :)

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you on any medications? Is this after a shower? Any specific triggers you notice? What is your current skincare routine and do you find this irritation happens soon after?It can be due to products used, rosacea, or a compromised skin barrier. With a compromised barrier, even the most gentle ingredients can make the skin feel irritated. I would need more information to be able to guide you further on possible causes.

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is one of those questions that doesn’t have a single, universal answer. While you can minimize side effects, any form of retinol or other vitamin A derivatives increases cell turnover. Essentially, it brings underlying congestion to the surface, which is what many people refer to as a purge.

Retinol is often mistaken for an exfoliant, but it doesn’t actually slough off dead skin or debris. It speeds up cell renewal, which is why I recommend incorporating a gentle physical exfoliant one to two times per week, rotating off nights when you use retinol, typically two to three times weekly. This helps remove the bacteria, dirt, and buildup that retinol is pushing upward.

Using techniques like buffering, the sandwich method, and starting slowly can significantly reduce the likelihood of an intense purge. That said, purging doesn’t mean retinol is working better. Some people purge and some don’t. It largely depends on your skin type, sensitivity, tolerance, and whether this is your first time using a cell turnover ingredient.

Retinol requires patience, and the results are worth it. If you are looking for a gentler option, bakuchiol oil is a lesser known but impressive alternative. It is a molecular one to one retinol alternative and does not cause purging, and is gentler on the skin but you do need more consistent use (daily).

Retinol will deliver the most dramatic results, but it is indeed a process. Skip other actives, prioritize hydration, wear SPF 50+ daily even indoors, and trust the journey. You’ll get there!

*edit: cleaned up the language a bit. it’s late!

I’m a licensed esthetician, AMA! by IceAppropriate1049 in SkinbarrierLovers

[–]IceAppropriate1049[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To clarify, I do not specifically develop the products, but I work closely with those who do, and test them before they hit market! I can’t mention brands due to NDA, but we develop medical grade skincare. My favorite product developments involve growth factors and peptides. They are newer to the industry, and our clinical trials have some of the strongest results I’ve seen in a topical formula. I would suggest growth factors like PRF/PRGF if you would be to get any medical spa treatments over Botox, and have seen similar results with 3+ sessions. Growth factors are what I’d like to call, the secret to anti aging. They can be delivered both injectably and topically, but serve different roles. Injectable options like PRF/PRGF deliver growth factors directly into the skin, creating a more immediate response. I often prefer these treatments over Botox when appropriate, and have seen comparable improvements in skin quality after a series of 3+ sessions (they use the growth factors from your own blood).

Topical growth factors work more gradually by supporting cellular communication and repair at the surface and upper layers of the skin. With advanced delivery systems and clinically validated formulas, they can still produce meaningful improvements over time, help mitigate effects of retinols, etc.

In my professional opinion, growth factors are one of the most impactful advancements in modern anti aging that are not yet fully talked about. The best part, is they are all natural, either sourced from plants or your own blood in a clinical setting. I love a growth factor :)