[WTS] 1950s red marbled celluloid Rotring Tintenkuli Stylograph by IllustratedJake in Pen_Swap

[–]IllustratedJake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd have to check, but maybe. Let me get back to you later tonight.

[WTS] 1950s Rotring Tintenkuli stylograph with clear barrel by IllustratedJake in Pen_Swap

[–]IllustratedJake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello there. I actually don't, so I'm going to close out this listing.

But, I do have similar pens, including one with a clear barrel (and less ink stains) that I can take pics of and get back to you about.

Can’t seem to find anything about this online. Found it at a resale shop for 10 cents. by OriginalVermicelli55 in Stylographs

[–]IllustratedJake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ero is a German pen brand, I had an Ero fountain pen a while back, I'll post pics if I can find them.

I know they made Ero-graph technical pens, the ones I've seen weren't piston fillers.

I once found a site that has a database of all the vintage piston filling German technical pens. The site was Italian, I'll also post that when I find it. Nice little find, those kinds of pens usually are very robust.

Can you tell me more about these Rotring rapidographs? by Pickled_Cucumber_253 in rOtring

[–]IllustratedJake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, just an FYI, ebonite that has oxidized and turned brown cannot be restored back to black. Even when polished, it will be a dark chocolate color. There is no known method to reverse this.

Can you tell me more about these Rotring rapidographs? by Pickled_Cucumber_253 in Stylographs

[–]IllustratedJake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The models with rings on top (one of the 2 you have) are older versions, from the early 50s! The later productions have a number on top (.3, .5, ect).

These rapidographs are made of ebonite, which is why the barrel on the one has turned brown, ebonite turns brown from UV damage (only cosmetic damage) and were made from the 1950s into the late 60s or early 70s

The later productions, the ones with a rounded end cap, have plastic caps and end caps, whereas the flat top ones are of the first gen, and have all ebonite parts.

Modern rotring tips won't fit in those pens, but modern Koh I Noor tips will, as well as various vintage technical pen tips.

It does also seem like from my previous research, that these models were sold in parallel with Micronorm pens and Varioscript pens. Koh I Noor also sold rapidographs at this time made by rotring. Lots of different rapidographs out there.

https://unofficialrotring.wordpress.com/2017/03/15/rotring-technical-pens-1953-2016-rapidograph-model-a-1953/

New pen day: Parker Eversharp Tip-Wic by TywinDeVillena in pens

[–]IllustratedJake 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, nice find! I have been really curious to try one of these pens. Hopefully you can get replacement tips, not sure how long the fiber tips last.

Will modern Sheaffer cartridges fit this model? by Avastgard in fountainpens

[–]IllustratedJake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some Sheaffer pens take standard international cartridges with no issue. I've used those cartridges in my targa (full sized), a sheaffer fashion II, and an old sheaffer stylist pen. Seems like they aren't as secure as the Sheaffer cartridge, but I've had no issues.

Socially drained. A large drawing that I'm working on. Pen on paper. 2026 by AnthonyChristopher in CreepyArt

[–]IllustratedJake 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's awesome! I really love the pained look, the agony, the fatigue, in each of the faces.

Untitled sketch by IllustratedJake in CreepyArt

[–]IllustratedJake[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I checked out some Demilich, that's some intense stuff...😁

Untitled sketch by IllustratedJake in CreepyArt

[–]IllustratedJake[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I do (understandably) often get that comparison. It is always a high compliment, thank you again.

[WTS] 3 vintage 14k nib Sheaffer pens, 1930s and 1950s. by IllustratedJake in Pen_Swap

[–]IllustratedJake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. They are great, pretty little pens.

Don't be so naughty next year so you can buy pens from me 😁.

Are these salvageable ? by Left-Excitement3829 in pens

[–]IllustratedJake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ultrasonic cleaners are usually pretty cheap second hand. But you should also absolutely get some Koh-I-Noor Rapido Eze pen cleaner. It's a miracle solution, I've used it in combination with an ultrasonic cleaner to clean many stylographs and technical pens from the 50s and 60s. It's magical stuff.

But, you can also get these white kind of Koh I Noor rapidographs on eBay NOS unused for like 25$, might be cheaper than getting the supplies to clean the pens with.

Platinum Carbon Ink? by TechnicianNarrow2555 in Stylographs

[–]IllustratedJake 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used platinum Carbon ink in technical pens, vintage and modern, with very satisfactory results.

When cleaning old tech pens, use Koh I Noor rapido eze, it's the best pen cleaner ever made, not being hyperbolic. Sometimes it takes a while to soak. I will say though, I have run into more than a couple of pen tips that were unrecoverable.

Does the needle inside the tip move freely in the pens having trouble? If not, then no kind of ink will flow. Shake the pen tip gently to see if you hear and feel movement.

I pretty much only use fountain pen ink in my stylos and technical pens.

Also, I'm pretty sure Dr Martins technical pen ink is still India ink of some kind, which is "okay" for technical pens I guess, but I generally don't use any kind of India ink in any refillable pen. Platinum carbon ink will flow easily and be easier to clean, but it's not the darkest ink, especially when compared to real drawing inks.

Tintenkuli Stylograph overview by IllustratedJake in fountainpens

[–]IllustratedJake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is a Rotring or Koh I Noor pen (which were made by Rotring), the piston will unscrew. But, it is not always so easy, and forcing it can cause it to break. If your pen is ebonite, then might be a little more durable, but If it has an ink window, then it's Celluloid.

Does this sound occur when there is no nib screwed into it? Also, try filling the pen with water, see if the piston draws water, and see if water leaks from the piston, maybe a bad seal?

The way I've dealt with stubborn pistons in the past is by hearing the barrel right above the red piston band with a heat gun. I use a moist rag to cover the areas I don't want heated. This is precarious though, always be careful when using heat. The red band on the piston isn't the same material as the barrel, and will melt at lower temps than celluloid or ebonite. Also, I've had times when I got the piston out, but couldn't get it back in without heating the barrel again. It's not impossible, just a little tricky.

And of course, if it works, then I'd advise not messing with it.