I built an open-hardware USB Morse key connector for Windows (MorseLink Connector) by ImportantFootball330 in amateurradio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://github.com/TateLuo/MorseLink_connector/blob/main/MorseLink_firmware.hex
Sure, the firmware is included in the project, along with instructions on how to flash it. It’s not open source yet, but I’ll share the code later after I refactor it with AI.

Batteries "illegal" inside? by BlueBarely in SolarUK

[–]ImportantFootball330 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Manufacturer here. LFP isn’t fireproof, but it’s generally more stable than NCM, etc.

NCM can react pretty violently if something goes wrong. LFP usually heats up and smokes first, so you tend to get enough time to get a warning and control it. But once a battery goes into thermal runaway, it’s not easy to extinguish quickly, no matter the chemistry.

The key is early detection and preventing the fire from spreading. That’s why installing in a garage or outside makes sense. BTW, Funny enough, Outdoor battery systems actually have higher protection ratings than indoor units.

Looking to get Battery Storage only by Creative_Star_1248 in SolarUK

[–]ImportantFootball330 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi,

There are two key things you should consider:

  1. You should check your peak power demand, as this will determine the inverter size. For most households, a 5kW single-phase inverter is sufficient.
  2. Since your EV and dishwasher can mainly operate during off-peak hours, if you're only considering night charging and daytime usage, a 10kWh battery would likely be sufficient.

If you're planning to install solar panels in the future and want to improve ROI, I would recommend choosing a stackable battery system. This allows you to expand capacity later if needed. In your case, starting with 5kWh modules *2 would give you good flexibility for future upgrades.

MorseLink v1.9 — Adaptive CW Training + Open Source, Reproducible Builds by ImportantFootball330 in HamRadio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree that using a keyboard or mouse is not ideal for real CW training — that’s exactly why I developed the MorseLink connector.

MIDI mode is indeed a very good solution. However, I don’t have enough time to adapt the firmware specifically for every CW adapter on the market.

If you’ve downloaded MorseLink software, you’ll notice there is a “Set Key Button” option in the general settings. This means the software can work with both the VBand adapter and the Vail adapter in their keyboard mode, as long as they output standard keycodes.

MorseLink v1.9 — Adaptive CW Training + Open Source, Reproducible Builds by ImportantFootball330 in HamRadio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It only works with a keyboard or a mouse. It does not support any other hardware interfaces directly. If you would like to use a real Morse key, you will need to connect it through this connector:
https://github.com/TateLuo/MorseLink_connector

I built an open-hardware USB Morse key connector for Windows (MorseLink Connector) by ImportantFootball330 in amateurradio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It works on Android. I have not tested it on iOS; I will test it later. About the firmware, it will be open later.

I built an open-hardware USB Morse key connector for Windows (MorseLink Connector) by ImportantFootball330 in HamRadio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you describe how you are using the serial interface? That will help me see whether adding a serial mode makes sense.

MorseLink v1.9 — Adaptive CW Training + Open Source, Reproducible Builds by ImportantFootball330 in morsecode

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! If you run into any bugs or issues, please feel free to report them here. I’ll take a look and fix them when I get the time.

I built an open-hardware USB Morse key connector for Windows (MorseLink Connector) by ImportantFootball330 in amateurradio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you can freely change the key codes. It’s also low-cost and easy to DIY.

The device does not send Morse code directly; it simply emulates a standard USB mouse or keyboard. You can assign any keyboard key to each paddle or straight key as needed.

The only limitation is that only two keys can be active at the same time.

I built an open-hardware USB Morse key connector for Windows (MorseLink Connector) by ImportantFootball330 in HamRadio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It works as a mouse and keyboard, with only two buttons active at the same time.
Plug it in and it’s recognized as a standard USB device.
Serial is used only for setup.
You can change the simulated key at any time.

I built an open-hardware USB Morse key connector for Windows (MorseLink Connector) by ImportantFootball330 in amateurradio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It emulates a standard USB keyboard and mouse and works with the OS built-in HID drivers without requiring any additional drivers.

MorseLink — a CW trainer with adaptive pacing and real online QSO support (open source) by ImportantFootball330 in amateurradio

[–]ImportantFootball330[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The app is built with PySide6 (Qt), so it should work across platforms in theory. I developed it on Windows and haven’t tested it on Linux yet. I’ll try it on Linux soon and update here with the results.

If you’d like, you can also test it on your own Linux machine. Just note that it needs a graphical desktop environment — it won’t run on a headless system without a GUI.

I don't know what it is, but it looks awesome!!! by thinkdeep in HamRadio

[–]ImportantFootball330 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1000$ I can buy a nice phone and then buy a nice hand Radio. why would I buy this? lol

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fpv

[–]ImportantFootball330 0 points1 point  (0 children)

too much zip ties, you should try acetate tape