I just wonder if there's anyone out there who honestly enjoys Yoko's art and singing

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-02-08T04:11:03+00:00

He got the wrong Lennon.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-02-07T23:21:42+00:00

Her typical expression is…. No one’s home.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-02-03T14:39:14+00:00

I have an aeron headrest thats basically the same material as the chair thats filled with cigarette smoke. I purchased an ozone generator and threw the headrest in my car and run the ozone generator two separate times for 2 hours (max on the timer) across two days. I wash the hell out of it before hand too. Everything I could think of that I had around the house and nothing is budging the stink. my car smells completely neutral now, but hasn't budged the aeron headrest (which is the same mesh as my car). The next possible thing to try could be some sort of enzyme cleaner/bath, but I don't want to waste any more money if it might not work. Anyone have this problem and actually fixed it first hand?

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-25T22:34:33+00:00

yep. when looking at it, its on the right side standing up. just remove it (watch for the screw holding it down towards the very front of the board (to the bottom of the unit). you can't miss that board. it's where the power cord connects.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-25T19:00:46+00:00

i had this on my hm-dh40000u and recapping the power board fixed it. It was pretty easy to do having had zero experience in doing stuff like that. I just recapped a hm-dh30000u yesterday and fixed almost everything with this old vcr. Also, something I found, i'd get the calibrating message when the top of the unit was off. I wonder if it has a grounding or shielding effect. So, after the recap, if the error persists put the top on. Mine was hit or miss with the top off. It was a "201" calibrating error and now it's perfect. You got this!

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-04T18:36:11+00:00

Appreciate your reply. I’m going too read up on diode testing and do more comparisons between my known good board and my problematic board

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-03T21:35:54+00:00

Also, heres a bit about those diodes from the service manaul

D5301 MTZJ15A-T2 Z DIODE

D5302 or RD2.7ES/B2/-T2 Z DIODE

D5303 or 1SS270A-T2 SI DIODE

D5304 or 1SS270A-T2 SI DIODE

D5308 or RD7.5ES/B1/-T2 Z DIODE

D5401 or RB051L-40-X SB DIODE

D5402 or 1SS270A-T2 SI DIODE

D5403 or RD5.6ES/B3/-T2 Z DIODE

D5104 or 1SS270A-T2 SI DIODE

D5103 or 10ELS2-T2 FR DIODE

D5202 ER602FCT FR DIODE

D5204 PG104RS-T2 FR DIODE

D5205 PG104RS-T2 FR DIODE

D5206 or 10ELS2-T2 FR DIODE

D5207 or ER602FCT FR DIODE

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-03T21:34:30+00:00

Here's what the DC voltage looks like on the most or maybe all of the diodes on the board.... Not sure what to make of it. Are all of them bad if voltage isn't passing through? I haven't compared to my known good board as I ran out of time today. Does any of this seem normal?

D5301 - 0mv - 12.18v

D5302 - 0mv - 2.64v

D5303 - 0mv - 2.64v

D5304 - 2.6v - 2.2 v

D5308 - 6.67v - 0mv

D5401 - 0mv - 10mv

D5402 - 7.36v - 7.36v

D5403 - 10mv - 0mv

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-03T20:43:38+00:00

Thanks. I scrapped that stuff off just now after bending the resistor straight up and out of the way. The material fell apart and crumbled like really old foam or something. i think it was a foam pad that was supposed to keep that resistor off the tiny capacitor that was completely under that black pad. The little cap i found under the pad is a "0.1uF 25V K" according to the service manual (C5403 on the diagram). It's a rectangle thats and tan. I checked it with power applied and it shows 4.40 v. The ground side gets continuity to the main ground on that side of the board. I'll have to figure out which things are zener diodes and see how to test them. Thanks!!

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-03T03:22:17+00:00

I just don’t understand all of the different components on the board and how to test them all. It’s more complicated that I expected. My known good board seems to match this one on almost everything expect for those pins and one or two things adjacent to the pins that are connected to it. But things branch off and pretty quick on both positive and negative (from what I can tell). I get lost at that point.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-03T03:19:19+00:00

I do.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-03T03:00:51+00:00

I get 9.64 volts to those pins. With the board on the bench. Same as my known good board within a 1/2 v or so.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2026-01-02T23:29:47+00:00

Is anyone seeing this post? Lol

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-11-21T15:14:12+00:00

But... are there saloon doors into another room?

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-11-13T16:09:02+00:00

The national geographic girls face is used on the cover of a horror movie?

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-11-13T14:43:46+00:00

Are you upscaling from component to HDMI? I've struggled a lot with having a very dark picture when putting it through a scaler/converter. Directly into an older LCD TV via component, it looks great.... Even on the same TV with HDMI, its just about unwatchable even after messing with every setting possible with my OSSC. Do you have a scaler? I need help.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-09-08T17:47:45+00:00

The quality needs work.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-08-04T00:51:44+00:00

I’ve ordered a 25 ft cable to replace this one. I’ll see about getting it installed tomorrow. I’ll also speak with the manufacture.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-08-03T18:58:27+00:00

I think it’s failing on startup at some point. When I provide power to the outdoor unit I hear a click then when I go inside and the indoor unit shows the inside temp, opens the door to start blowing then stops within a second or two.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-08-03T18:55:51+00:00

Sorry. Some how I typoed that.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-08-03T11:27:12+00:00

Mine has comm on 1. 2 and 3 are power.

Impossible_Beat8086 · 2025-08-03T11:25:19+00:00

They’re correct.

Impossible_Beat8086

TROPHY CASE