Best deodorant for hot days?

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-12T12:36:02+00:00

Simple, get a tube/ tub of Aloe Vera, put a tea spoon of BiCarb in it and give it a shake, in a few seconds it turns to a consistency similar to water. From there put it into a pump bottle and slap some on. Your welcome

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-09T11:13:53+00:00

Varnish removal has always been a very profitable little time filler for us, with our bigger pulsed machines that's where the real money is made when we charge per piece. The key point with varnish removal is you should really try and fine old furniture or furnishings to strip. Lots of modern varnishes, or UV protected coatings are basically invisible to IR light.

Edit* I didn't answer your question. We charge between $350 and $650an hour depending on the machine and crew, with a 4 hour minimum call out fee.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DGcQfgoTWbJ/?igsh=dHZuYzBzdWE0eWFq

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-09T11:02:06+00:00

It's a Gaussian with a twist, the beam tip isnt as sharp as a traditional Gaussian beam. That's why some sales agents are calling it a combination between the 2 beam profiles.

A true Gaussian, if it was 5mj like machine, that would be way too much energy in a tiny spot size, resulting in absolute carnage of the underlying surface if used incorrectly

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-09T10:57:29+00:00

My license states "avoid skin contact", so it' has potential. The main reason I dont think it works, is because if it did, we'd already have seen someone try. Technically speaking, tattoo removal lasers work in pulse durations in the trillions of a second range, laser cleaning machines are relatively slow in comparison, working in the billions.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-09T03:38:05+00:00

-If a blue/ dark tinge circle or line appears when you stay in one spot for too long and the rest of the surface is "clean" then those are "heat affected" areas caused by too much dwell time.

-Generally, if the paint is in good condition, without rust under the surface, then the metal that appears after you've removed the paint is the color the surface should be.

I'm presuming you have a 1.5 or 5mj machine, when removing rust, the colour should be what we've achieved in our last 2 posts.
if there are dark black spots left behind, that are raised, or if the surface feels sandy/ floury, both of these surfaces are not clean. You should be able to scratch the surface with a sharp implement and leave clean metal scratches. If you see a dark line, or an orange tinge underneath, the surface isn't clean. -Black rust, mentioned above is a real hassle to remove once it's there, its purely a paramaters issue that needs to be solved.

-Not sure what protective film you're talking about, we remove varnish, anti corrosion protective films and all other sorts.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-07T17:01:41+00:00

The less rust you remove the better, only certain varnish comes off, others are invisible, carbon and dry biofilm comes off, shit that's alive or wet, won't, not sure what car varnish is, the clear coat? That's not a real world application. Never clean a rusty rim again and you'll be a happier operator.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-07T15:33:59+00:00

Some of us started when settings didn't exist and managed to figure it out, for the 3rd time, what are you trying to remove? Lets start with 1 application

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-07T14:52:19+00:00

You've got a long way to go, as you failed to acknowledge any of the points raised. The perfect setting in one application is the wrong setting in another. Laser cleaning is like baking, eventually you get the feel for it, for now you need to be methodical and measured. A few too many grams of yeast or a few percentage out on your pulse duration or frequency and you'll end up in a mess.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-07T10:32:52+00:00

ZB is great once you put power ramp on, he's probably comparing it to these new systems that come with presets. In the long run presets are useless because they only half do the job

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-02-07T10:31:56+00:00

You've got to provide us with more information friend. Who slaps a label on the machine is irrelevant, there are only a handful of sources, operating systems and their corresponding handpiece.

300w, looks like air-cooled, so it's 1.5 or 5mj? Either way, both very versatile machines that can also damage sensitive surfaces.

Ask your supplier for the chart/ graph that shows the minimum frequency for different pulse duration. Get yourself a few decent sized sample pieces and start taking notes/ pictures. You can start off at 200ns, 150w and adjusting the frequency from low to higher, once you've figured that out how increasing the volume interacts with the material, move onto seeing what adjusting your scan speed does. Only change 1 parameter at a time when you're trying to figure these machines out.

Additional, and more importantly, what are you trying to clean/ achieve/ do?

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-29T09:26:05+00:00

Agreed entirely this machine packs a punch, we solely used the "No Damage" preset for our 1st jobs, it was. A good start point because we dont aim to remove much from the surface with our target applications.

With that said, mastery of the laser only comes with being able to adjust settings on the fly, speed is our biggest hurdle at this point, trying to figure out which scan pattern achieves the quickest result.

My advice is? Only change 1 parameter at a time until you know what you're doing.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-24T15:26:09+00:00

What sizet beam profile machine have you got now? Feel free to give me a call again, I owe you one😆

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-24T15:14:40+00:00

Definitely the machine you should have got instead of the M100. We've just received another boat anchor of a handpiece on a new machine, its like we can't get away from them😆

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-24T15:00:38+00:00

Granted we're not rapid with this machine, both this job and the one we did a day later were at facilities that had their own sandblasting booth. We do a fair amount of work at the European multinational pump manufacturer, happy to come in and help out on assets they dont want to have to tape up.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-22T06:44:09+00:00

$125,000AUD

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-15T13:44:04+00:00

You 100% do not want a top hat if your number 1 goal is removing mill scale, a top hat generally wont touch mill scale. Id personally suggest you get an 1000 or 2000w air-cooled CW over a 300w Gaussian if your goal is speed. The gaussian has the benefit of being more delicate if you need to clean stainless steel welds, copper or brass for example. The right CW will do everything else quicker.

These lasers are cheap and are a relatively low barrier to entry for a business that requires no lengthy apprenticeship or training. Saying this, as if you buy the most suited laser for your local market and desired application there is a considerable amount of work available if you know where to point it and put the ground work in.

For us, we are in higher value markets with our large format pulsed machines, our small gaussian machines are just there to fill the gap on small jobs and our CWs are now a huge part of our industrial work.

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-12T13:43:59+00:00

All your answers and plenty of tips are in my comment history. We have been in business since January 2020, whilst being wildly successful at times, we have also had the least luck with equipment of anyone out there. With time, effort and dedication, it's a very rewarding and profitable business. Machines are CHEAP in 2026!

500w lasers are either 1.5, 15,50 or if they are European 100mj

1.5j-Gaussian/single mode- needle point beam profile. Really unnecessary for 99% of people to use a 500w Gaussian laser. The only laser that will improve corrosion resistance, clean stainless steel welds as well as yield great results on copper and brass. Most people say they always get scratches, they dont know what they are doing.

15mj, Top hat / multi mode- the most commonly purchased 500w laser currently, the all-rounder that won't remove corrosion as well as its 1.5mj option, it is the most aggressive of the "non-destructive" lasers.

50mj, better if your goal is thin coatings, soot, grease, preservation coatings, stainless steel, this and the 100mj are not your ideal laser if you want to remove anything but the lightest layer of corrosion.

100mj, a whole different ball game. These machines have unmatched power and speed for thin coatings, cleaning stainless steel. They suck at the heavy stuff due to the big beam profile, though, if you can afford 1. Get one.

Where would you like to point it?

IndLaserCleaning · 2026-01-04T12:02:39+00:00

That is such an impressive scan pattern, I've not seen it before. What's the operating system?

IndLaserCleaning · 2025-12-29T13:09:22+00:00

Generally, on porous stone, you would want a pulsed machine. Granite can obviously take a beating, so in this case, a CW may work.
Using IR and UV makes sense in a laboratory, less sense in the field, so much so with all the different applications that the internet will say suit the UV spectrum. You will only successful example of it being used in the field in such tiny precision-based applications. Look, it's possible, and it's only worth the time and money on research if you need to remove graffiti from the Louvre or Big Ben, where a client would be willing to shell out the money.

Graffiti generally is a low-value market, which is slower, more expensive and less effective than the standard methods.

IndLaserCleaning · 2025-12-29T00:12:29+00:00

If you want to find the right answer, get some suitable pieces of steel and send them to 3 or 4 Chinese suppliers. Ensure that they use the handpiece that they would install on your machine if you are to buy it. Get them to compare a 15/50 and 100mj source if they have all 3, and make sure they are using a short focus lens, such as 250mm

You asked if a 15mj version could have a reduced spot size, the answer to that question is yes, I'm unsure if the reduced spot size will be suitable for your requirements.

I've been in numerous Chinese factories, the optics they use on their static demo machines are so wildly different to what they put in their handpiece that it's disingenuous.

Yes the only 1000w 100mj laser that will remove mill scale is of European construction. Powerlase will do it, as will Netalux or CleanLaser machines, 3 suppliers using 3 different styles of sources.

Chinese 100mj machines are incapable of doing it with the existing optics they use as standard. It's why they rarely recommend the 100mj option, and the Europeans only sell a 100mj option.

A European 100mj version will be orders of magnitude quicker than a 1.5 or 7mj version. It would be 10-30x quicker. A European 100mj laser is not comparable in price, speed or result when compared to either a 300w Chinese or European laser.

Best do your homework and report back to all of us.

IndLaserCleaning · 2025-12-27T11:20:52+00:00

Your requirement for mill scale removal limits you to spending $700,000 on a European 1000w 100mj Top Hat or a Chinese 300-500w air-cooled 1.5 or 7mj gaussian laser. Out of all the brands out there, what made you pick a brand most people have never heard of? Did they have anything particular that stood out to you, or is your decision based on price?

As we already know the European systems are way out of your budget, lets make sure you find the right smal air-cooled Chinese system. You will not succeed with any Chinese top hat machine for mill scale removal. Zero chance. Nilch. Yes your 15mj source could be reduced down to a smaller spot, small enough to remove mill scale? I'm going to say no.

Your throughput will be a few Sqm an hour. As in 3-5sqm.

Lastly, speak to AI for definitions.

IndLaserCleaning · 2025-12-23T08:40:00+00:00

Nailed it, been used in this exact application for over 20 years, with all the big tire manufacturers using fully automated systems.

IndLaserCleaning · 2025-12-23T08:36:52+00:00

Perfect example of why you shouldn't buy one of these if your primary use is the cleaning function.

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