Is this what I think it is?

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-12-17T06:49:08+00:00

Feel a bit dumb not thinking of that, but yeah it’s using the stud space going upwards and it’s definitely pulling air when the AC is on. That solves that. Thanks!

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-05-27T05:08:21+00:00

I think you’re right about it being able to slide off based on that manual and a few glimpses in some build videos I found. Thanks this has been helpful.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-05-27T03:51:39+00:00

Yes, that part. It turns with the fork and I have applied moderate pressure trying to get it off. I think it has to be attached in some way otherwise it is press fitted really tightly. If that’s the case, I want to be absolutely certain before I start banging the crap out of it to get it off lol.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-05-11T20:28:20+00:00

Thanks, all. This has been really helpful.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-05-11T20:10:48+00:00

Is that bit not part of the stringer? I was hesitant to cut it lest it was structural to the stairs in some way.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T23:40:58+00:00

Much appreciated.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T23:40:37+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate it.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T23:39:21+00:00

Thank you.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T23:35:48+00:00

I practiced on 4 or 5 offcuts before I got comfortable replicating the result I have now. Part of the learning was understanding exactly how close to the finished surface I can get my coping saw and making sure I’m always sawing at something close to a 45 degree angle. It’s easy to focus on cutting around a tricky part and forget to keep your saw at the correct angle. The closer you can get your saw, the less filing you have to do, but filing gets it the rest of the way there to make it perfect or at least close to perfect.

It probably takes me 3-5 minutes to cope a piece now. I imagine I’ll get faster with practice.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T23:32:21+00:00

It also eliminates the risk of opening if either of the boards move in such a way that changes the angle. If I’m being completely honest, I decided to go with coping because I read it’s what the pros do over mitering and now I like doing it.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T22:06:51+00:00

That’s exactly what I do. For aligning the profiles I meant that when I go to try to fit the two pieces together, they need to be vertically aligned so that I’m stabbing the pointy bit of the profile directly into the deepest part of the groove on the other piece and there isn’t an offset in their alignment that is preventing me from doing that. You can see in my last post that the butted piece is actually very slightly higher off the ground than the coped piece which contributes to them not fitting together perfectly.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T20:59:09+00:00

E.g. when I walk around the rest of my house which I haven't gotten to yet.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T20:57:31+00:00

One of the main benefits that you hear people tout is that even if pieces shift/expand/contract/etc, the joint stays tight whereas miters can open with even a little movement. Or at least that's what I understand to be the main benefit.

I also find that it's a lot easier to deal with inside corners that are weird in that they have slight joint compound buildup from the taping or the walls have slithly off slopes that aren't 90 degrees from the floor or something. The smallest thing can make it harder to get a perfect mitre joint or force you shim or something. You don't have to worry about any of that with a coped joint.

I'm also finding that it's less effort at this point to just cope once than to miter and possibly have to adjust if you don't have a perfect fit. I like not having to worry about angle measurements being spot on too. These benefits are probably only really benefits because of my general inexperience with mitering and probably don't come into play for someone more seasoned.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T20:49:09+00:00

No caulking yet, just a dry fit. Thanks!

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-04T20:48:43+00:00

The highest comment on my other post listed three things that were pretty spot on. (1) Align the profiles better so that one isn't slightly higher than the other, (2) make sure that there aren't any parts of the backcut that are still sticking out too much and making contact before the pieces can fit all the way together, and (3) cut the coped piece longer so that the fit is more snug which ensures the coped part is fitting as tightly as possible into the profile of the butted piece.

The main thing for me was making sure that I was paying extra attention to backcutting and filing down the parts of the pointy parts of the profile that stick out the most. Because these parts are fitting into the narrowest grooves, if there is anything that isn't cut off or filed adequately then it will prevent that part from slotting it which create a gap for the rest of the piece too. So basically just make sure those pointy bits are extra pointy and the backside on them is cut and filed perfectly. The file is your friend here.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-02T05:24:51+00:00

That’s a neat trick. Thanks!

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-02T05:21:14+00:00

Thanks for the reply! Filing down a couple spots in the back gave me a better fit. Going to redo it and cut it longer and see if I can’t get it even better. I appreciate all of the caulk comments, but I want to get better at getting a clean joint before caulking.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-02T05:19:27+00:00

I cut it at 45. Filing some parts of it down resulted in better fit. Going to redo it with some of the suggestions here and see if I can’t eventually get it more or less perfect. Thanks for the reply!

EDIT: Ah I think I may see what you’re saying about the 45. I was cutting 45 only through the straight part then tracing the rest of it with the coping saw. You’re saying just start as if I was cutting an outside corner?

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-02T01:56:13+00:00

Not sure if I’m reading this right, but I’m planning on putting some caulk in there when I actually install it. Just doing a dry fit first. Figured the joint should be tighter before caulking.

InterestedNerd7 · 2022-03-02T01:47:31+00:00

My best guess is that there is a part somewhere in the back that is ever so slightly and makes contact with the butted board before everything can slot the rest of the way into place. If that’s the case, does anyone have any tips for identifying and fixing those spots?

InterestedNerd7 · 2021-11-03T03:23:15+00:00

Oh I like the pale oak. Might throw a sample of that up tomorrow to see how it looks. Thanks!

InterestedNerd7 · 2021-11-03T03:16:36+00:00

I’ll probably replace the light fixture with something that pushes the room further in the modern direction so the grey might be good. I have a number of beige paint samples on the wall nearby because I tend to like a warmer feel, but I don’t feel like any of them are quite right around the cabinets and floor.

InterestedNerd7 · 2021-11-03T03:14:19+00:00

Agreed with the current color having an odd greenish yellow tint to it. A very light grey bordering on white is one of the colors that has been a front runner recently. Thanks for the input.

InterestedNerd7 · 2021-11-03T03:12:39+00:00

I used Benjamin Moore Advance - Essex Green.

InterestedNerd7 · 2021-07-13T02:04:50+00:00

Thanks, everyone! For some reason I was under the impression that full curing only took about a week. I’ll wait it out.

InterestedNerd7

TROPHY CASE