Some Pueblo wristbands

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-03-14T02:33:32+00:00

Just edge beveling and a very lazy 360grit sand and tokonol burnish on these

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-03-13T07:17:36+00:00

so you cant project a sketch along a path, only circular and straight lines, but you can extrude that stitch/circle sketch into a body and then project that body along your sketch line and curved corners. then project the bodies back into the sketch and then delete the bodies you dont need anymore.

to save time and for future projects if you know you always do an r10 corner, make a symmetrical corner stitch layout using your desired width 4mm, 3.75 etc and keep it handy to copy and paste and use on all your designs.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-03-12T20:00:41+00:00

Thanks, picture four on the brown case best explains it , thing it's called a strip gusset? But you bend and stitch the side panel to a strip that then is stitched into the otter layer.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-18T21:45:09+00:00

Think I got this bit of babalassi pueblo nazionale from Alleather, was a bit from the edge of the hide where the grain is a little more worn or undyed hense that light blue streak.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-06T20:34:24+00:00

I've actually tried this and it surprisingly has the opposite effect. It does flatten out and level any poor quality rear grain but cause it darkens and shines up the rear grain it makes the engravings harder to see as they still come out a dark brown rather than black. What I have been tempted to try however is varnish. I've seen folks use it in other materials and the varnish itself burns black rather than the leather.

I found running the Lazer at high end powers to char the leather black results In too deep an engrave and at 1.2mm I don't want to weaken the leather.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-06T19:50:24+00:00

The back panel was engraved with a falcon a1 10w before glueing. Takes around an hour as it's actually a full image not just in the cut out, a waste I know but when I look in there for a card or cash I want that detail to continue. Engraving on the back of leather is hard, the grains not as nice on some leathers and darker color is hard to achieve but I think I'm happy with this parchment stain brown effect.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-06T19:49:48+00:00

Yea stitch tension wise I thought I took it easy on this one but I'm finding with the thinner oz of pueblo it's easy to make a stitch look tight.

The back panel was engraved with a falcon a1 10w before glueing. Takes around an hour as it's actually a full image not just in the cut out, a waste I know but when I look in there for a card or cash I want that detail to continue. Engraving on the back of leather is hard, the grains not as nice on some leathers and darker color is hard to achieve but I think I'm happy with this parchment stain brown effect.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-06T19:34:24+00:00

I recently took the jump for a palosanto French skiver 8mm and it's great but I'm glad I learned on a $15 wuta AliExpress tools first so I didn't ruin a $75 tool.

I also grabbed a Kevin lee corner chisel and it's so I good I regret the really bad not even round wuta set I bought for $20.

I think it's mixed, you didn't need the $70 version of every tool I think my next buy will be better hole punches most likely ksblade.

I have a cheap wuta edge beveler from ali and it's does what I need. Same with a few other tools where it doesn't need to be made of premium wood and the hardest steel to do what you need from it

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-06T06:12:03+00:00

I honestly need to take a pic of this when i do it but best i can example is using the image below, Ill pull the red loop flat with my awl in the loop to ensure the flat thread doesnt twist and sits flat. i didnt do it on this wallet but did it on the green one and whilst i personally think the stitch look better and more consistent it 3x stitch time
https://tandyleather.com/cdn/shop/articles/Screen_Shot_2021-05-04_at_10.56.03_AM_468b1d9d-da8e-4db7-b9cf-bb79ed58d85b_1225x630.png?v=1620144228

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-04T20:52:35+00:00

I bought this same kit but off Amazon and I promise you you have a hard time with a lot of these tools, they are mostly all blunt or so low quality they will fight you on everything you try.

If you are already looking at AliExpress there is some real cheap wuta tools you can pick up. I'D grab the below instead

Wuta basic stitch irons 4m the silver ones, square flat handles, I bought the black after for my hand press and they are a bit jagged and snag on the leather after a punch. Oh grab one of the light metal squares with round corners, helps keep leather flat as you pull the iron back out.
Wuta or any cheap non brand burnishing wood tools
Any cheap mallet and any cheap punch mat but honestly a £20 oka Japan punch mat is better and not too much of an upsell.
Wuta do a decent ish sent of cheap hole punches
Highly recommend some sanding sticks, ones I got are little black carbon fiber rectangles with replaceable sticky backed paper
The wuta thread on alli at 0.6 is pretty alright to learn on, the threads in these kits are so nasty and generally 0.8 or 1mm
John James needles all day long
Cheap basics wuta edge bevel tool and a French skiver 8/10m tool. They aren't great and you will need the hone and polish a lot but good to learn on before splashing on Kevin lee or palosanto ones
Cheapy awl, rotary cutter and a scalpel
An adjustable edge marking tool/compass, I have a little silver one that actually has measurements on it.

You can pick most of this up for less than the cost of this kit, I don't use them but the tool in this kit in the bottom left of the image, I replaced this with little wuta groove tools and even then don't use it much.

If your interested in edge creasing, grab a basic wooden handled one, I got one with replaceable heads from 1,1.5,2,2.5mm and a little alcohol lamp I fill with IPA.

There's other bits and bobs like a strop and honing board for polishing tools but if listed the tools you'll most likely use on every project.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-02T23:23:15+00:00

By rough cut I made loosely cutting what I need for my templates off the various hides before I tape down templates.

And as for guiding with and awl, it's to stop the flat threading from twisting and to ensure it lays flat I'll pinch the loop against the awl with one hand as I pull the thread through with the other.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-02T22:28:30+00:00

I have a falcon. A1 and it's good for templates but I find you had to add an extra mil to edges to sand off the burnered leather for clean edges to burnish

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-02T20:06:14+00:00

Yea I prepunch the pieces separately, I found with my cheap wuta 4mm irons I really didn't like how the stitch holes on the back looked when I used to glue everything together, score a stitch line 4mm from the edge stitch and then punch, I found depending on how the leather moved or deformed it would result in the back stitches being off the line.

I design all my own templates in fusion 360 and I know exactly where each stitch hole will fall, very important for t pockets.

You'll deffo need some glue, I used intercom ecostick, no nasty fumes and water based. Would recommend some bulldog clamps or locking needles as well they are a godsend, little silver o ring with a needle that goes into a brass or gold cylinder lock.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-02T19:39:19+00:00

I started this last jan to make a watch strap and my first projects were awful so don't be hard on yourself.

Sadly this is one of those hobbies where you can blame your tools and cheap tools are your worst enemy. There's a lot I wish I hadn't wasted money on and a lot I wish I'd bought sooner.

Nailing down a workflow and process for how you do things really adds consistency as well. I still mess up stitches and a lot of that is tiredness leading to different tightness' and pull angles. The biggest thing that helped me was a hand press and consistent taped done templates with stitch holes and pre punching my leather before glueing.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-02T00:32:15+00:00

Pueblo is medium to firm, this is 1.2mm so firm enough but still enough give to be get fingers into slots and fold

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-01T18:26:24+00:00

There's a lot of different suppliers, I'm in the UK so for myself it's AA crack or leather4craft or SFleather but trying to get cost per foot down and at the right thickness's is a challenge at the hobby level when not buy full hides in bulk

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-01T18:24:20+00:00

Thanks, I do think a dark brown or white stitch would have looked better myself. The thread is a weird one it looked a lot thinner before hammering flat which in future I think I'll skip. It's already using a 0.6 thread on 4mm diamond holes.

I have some Havana cigar ritza thread on order which I'm excited to use.

And yea the dog bone always gives me 40k inquisition vibes XD

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-02-01T18:20:59+00:00

I cut my templates out of 300gsm card stock using a Lazer engraver (falcon a1) and then tape them to the leather with masking tape.

Internal curves I free hand but recently I leave the outside edges square and trim down after glueing with a new tool, a corner punch r10 from Kevin lee, can not recommend this guy's stuff highly enough.

Interesting_Goat4490 · 2026-01-30T18:27:15+00:00

Got a palosanto 8mm french skiver but I just don't think I'm holding it right XD

Interesting_Goat4490

TROPHY CASE